potatonet

OK so I know I had this problem when I first got my car and I cant remember what it was (partially because it got fixed by a shop). cold start the car and the revs bounce from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm and back and forth for a bit till it warms up... anyone? enrichment? ISV? I ask because a buddy of mine is having the same problem Thanks, Jonathan

ah yes but can it beat an ARP bolt.... doubtful =-)

wait a minute.... washer? I never had a washer on my bolt..... either of the 2 bolts that I had... my ARP has a washer... but my VW does not

but those extra sockets don't add to the strength of the bolt now do they?

should have gotten an ARP bolt kit... only requires a 19mm socket.....

no its my project for when I finish my thesis @ school

ben can you tell me why you are switching to a haldex system? and do you have any pictures of the transmission you plan on using? I think I might start getting parts together for an AWD conversion... what car do I need as a base for this? golf... passat?

ok so if I want to run a 3.33:1 final drive from a passat wagon (ccm code 02A) I am only doing this because I want second gear to get me beyond 55 mph (and thanks to the new motor I have the power to not notice the difference) I need to know what speedo drive to use (if I can use any)... the passat speedo drive is electric and I have analog speedo... I really would like to be able to do this without installing the digital speedo cluster (pain in the rear)... anyone?

yeah I wanted to do this to my car as well... ah another project. I didnt think it would really be that hard to fit... pulling the seats and the carpet only takes like 20 mins the rears are easy because they just have a little spring fitting thing that is the ABS the front hubs just need to be ABS hubs. apparently if you want to run Girling 60 calipers having ABS is a must ( the MC is 23mm instead of 22mm (makes a difference apparently)) either way ABS is a great addition (not for weight distribution though...)

isnt that the same thing? rear motor mount? oh it can also be exhaust rattling on something

rear motor mount =-) I had it for ages

work with old school clusters like my 90 Corrado? analog speedo... how much for shipping to US

ARP bolt kit 207-2501, 190,000 psi vs the stock corrado 145,000 psi good for a 30% increase in strength of the bolt yes its meant for a mitsu, yes its the same thread and pitch

ok guys 2.0L block, 16 psi, 8:1 comp ratio... injector size? I already have 30# injectors. and would someone please clarify the SNS myth to me... does the stage V read 18 psi?

thats why you dont have frontal collisions... make sure you have really good brakes before cutting your front bar btw you can fit an FMIC without cutting rebar, just remove your AC system ;-) Ive got my FMIC and my FMOC without AC and I have no bumper clearance issues. I will be installing a custom condenser when I feel the need for my AC again. (took a lot of radiator mount support modifications though) or you can get a FMIC that is narrow enough to lay down on the grill part of the bumper (plastic grill that always brakes). Just mount it to the Power steering cooler line. plenty of good ways to do it =-) PS the condenser will probably go where the old intercooler was...

he's also a turbo fan haha turbo fan.... ok I'll shut up now

I second that question

that would be the man! oh its such a small world when you own a corrado

thats why I dont even run an O2 sensor right now (was running it that way, till I ate 2 exhaust valves) going back to my 02 sensor ways soon.... BTW how do I make my motor richer or leaner? Co pot? I never had to adjust it before... but with 2.0L and more boost and ported head it should be a little different, right?

nah he's right, put it in the back seat! we have a mid engine corrado in the states with a twin turbo 6 in it! its fast.....

its for my AFR gauge, not to mention my probable up and coming stand alone, the LC-1 is really the best decision I could think of, that and a wideband AFR, I believe I can use my standard AFR gauge by modifying the analog output with the supplied program. will try that first... but yeah widebands rock! will probably keep the thing on the standard AFR till I pass 16 psi in the 2.0L G60

I think I will just stick with a stock piece for the ECU and then add another one (wideband) (I already have 2 outputs on my system)

narrow band flip flops between rich and lean if the AFR fluctuates barely from stoich. so it will read rich if your sensor reads 12 instead of 14.5 or lean the opposite direction. 0-5V is wideband 0-1V is narrow, larger gradient to tell exactly where you are. Im not writing my own maps, but Im running upwards of 20 psi with an FMU. its good to know where you sit with those things, and to have a mapper to tell you what needs to be fixed.

good for standalone more accurate AFR reading at the gauge, so you can tune your system better?

I think the wideband has to have a controller for both the gauge and for the ECU, the ECU output is 0-1V for narrow band systems. controller is also 150 dollars