potatonet

we will see how things work out. they sell the crankshaft for the block by itself as an upgrade part at autotech so Im pretty sure it will fit. it says 2.0L 16V (plenty of those laying around if this one doesnt fit) or 2.0L 8V audi. not a big deal if it doesnt. you were right 81mm but its wierd that they are 81mm pistons with an 82.5mm head. Im really looking forward to disassembling this motor anyway... does anyone know the compression ratio change if the rod length is 136mm vs 156mm? is it direct? 156mm rod on 92.8 has a comp ratio of 10:1, looking for value on 136mm rod

negative ghost rider... G60's use 82.5mm pistons, Im almost 100% on that, according to ETKA if we used 81's we would have a 1.6l engine due to our crankshaft stroke only being 86.4 I need to check but it doesnt make a difference cause Im just changing the crank.

standard G60 bore is 82.5mm, 2.0L bore is 82.5mm. G60 rod size = 136mm 2.0L rod size = 156mm G60 stroke = 86.4mm 2.0L stroke = 92.8mm I picked up a 2.0L crank yesterday and will be disassembling the motor this week. getting the rods matched to the new bearings, honing the engine myself (my friend is a machine shop guy). pistons are going to be checked for damage from my bent valves (268 cam) it will be 1984cc displacement but I am having trouble finding an exact compression ratio.

yeah I have a 268 cam so it will hit. timing belt is set up correctly, I read 0 on both cylinders when doing a compression test. yeah its kinda crappy but its a great excuse to remove my motor and make it a 2.0L while I have the chance. so soon it will be a 2.0L on 18 psi, we will see how that works.

yeah I am getting the cylinder walls honed and the pistons dished so they will check then. I also found I can just use the 2.0L crankshaft to make my car 1984cc displacement or something of that nature. so it will be a 2.0L

so my question is this. If I were to take the 2.0L block and crankshaft, could I put my G60 pistons and rods in it ( I think the diameters match up Im just making sure). and If I could do this. what would my new engine size and compression be? I believe I would have a engine size of 2.0L and a compression ratio of about 9.3:1, butttt if I used a low compression headgasket for a 2.0L block, it would be 8.3:1 because of the 1 point drop. would this motor work??? I have bent valves and am going to replace them but If I can put a 2.0L block in at the same time I will. I know I will need new rings and to get the rods matched to the crank, I would also shot peen my rods for some added strength... anyone know what else I would need IF this crazy Idea would actually work...?

ok... sooooo here is what I have been doing 1. replaced the bolt with an ARP bolt for a mitsubishi 2.0L turbo motor, 25 USD for the bolt hahaha! torqued to 130 ft lbs 2. replaced water pump (was about that time) 3. put everything back together. 4. crank over. car runs on 2 cylinders. 5. compression test all cylinders. 6. cylinders 2 and 4 are dead compression. Now you will have to follow me through these next assumptions. A G60 fires in 1,3,4,2 order, when I took the timing belt cover off (after getting it home) I was almost at tdc for cylinder 1. so follow me here now. can I assume that since 1 and 3 have great compression, 130 psi, I have no bent valves? and can I also assume that since 2 and 4 are the no compression cylinders that I only bent the intake valve on cylinder 4 and the exhaust valve on cylinder 2? If my bolt broke on cylinder 3 firing wouldnt that mean that cylinder 4 was finishing its intake stroke (valve still open), and 2 was just finishing its exhaust stroke/ starting its intake stroke? Im unsure of cylinder 2 but I know cylinder 4 is only intake. anyone follow me?

I drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16" drill bit into the bolt and it went through like butter! no wonder these bolts snap... driller the main hole for the easy out from the pilot hole, once again easy as butter... getting the bolt out... not so much easy as butter...

damn that car is a bitch.... I almost sold mine a while ago for 8k US thats about 4000 GBP... =-/ I had a bad charger though

uh yeah I would say ure pump = gonzo my car holds pressure for like an hour...makes me sad because I like watching it spike quickly... =-(

DUR!

only thing I am worried about is the depth, the stock bolt was even threads all the way down and is only 33mm my new one is 38mm. hope vw threaded their cranks far enough... cutting ARP bolts = compromising strength

just curious =-) let us know how the fuel pump works out.

Neil, how old are you mate? you dont need a sender unless you want to know how much gas you have, I suggest getting the car fixed then running the gas off of mileage on ure odometer. save the 40 quid... =-) Ive owned 2 cars, my C and a 1969 VW bug, thought I was getting out of trouble once I got rid of the bug... negative. I bought the car on availability... they dont exist in the US, or are limited. I do wish I bought a VR though

no they use M19 for the wrenching code. its an M14x1.5, 38mm length, head size is 31mm (will need to be resized) , nothing else really matters in this case. the 38mm I am a little worried about but I have a washer and would thing vw wouldnt be stupid like that.

ARP makes a bolt M19AZ1.525-1T that is a perfect replacement and I already ordered one. 25 USD each but worth it.. torque value on the ARP bolt is 105 ft lbs its got a 190000 psi tensile strenth =-), lets see that baby shear off!

nino I that... oh man you have no idea how useful that is!

riley you have to unplug the blue sensor, rev past 3k 3 times and then time your car @ 2500 rpms. if you just do it w/o undoing the bts the timing will be all over the place.

HEY!!!!!!!! sounds like a fix to me! my car doesnt start on the first crank unless I prime my fuel line twice, I have an extended line so it makes sense for my car. someone near riley get a Fuel pressure gauge out to him right quick!

I would bet it sheared because Im driving a charger that has internals at least 3 times heavier than a g60... I guess if that were the problem then I would need an ARP bolt. maybe I should tell darrin @ G-werks considering the size of a charger he was going to throw on his rallye G60...

let me quote the stealer... "we dont make that motor in the USA so we cant order parts for it..." if anyone has a part number I know where I can order one from... Im gonna use my degree right now and do metallorgraphy samples on DX bolts and the bolt I have and see if there is any difference as far as noticable. this bolt was brand new when I got it. The area in which it broke shows deformation in the bolt beforehand, hardened steel bolts dont do that, (I was assured it was a hardened steel bolt. also if anyone knows the size of the bolt and the thread pitch I might be able to order an ARP bolt in that size. ARP = Teh god of bolts

sooooo you guys will love this one... driving home 10 pm @40mph and all of a sudden my engine dies, I hear a thump thump thump and I think "I blew a rod! nope....my engine wouldnt die like that" all of a sudden my crank pulley set (all three gears/pulleys) goes rocketing out from underneath my car. I think "whoa ok.... I sheared my crank bolt". It goes left then right then left again, across 4 lanes of traffic.... Im sitting there coasting following it... (no drivers on the road thank god)... and follow it up a hill to get it back all battered and bruised. I look at my car and I see the bolt sheared off inside... "Im screwed" haha literally... question is to all those g60 folks how hard is it to get out with an EZ out. btw this crank bolt and gear was replaced a little over a year and a half ago. f{_}ck VAG parts cause they suck. anyone got a better alternative to ordering another VAG POS bolt. I cant order DX bolts here, we dont have that motor. thanks guys. Go to page 2 to see compression stuff

now you know what I feel as far as the boost goes! I try to tell everyone that but no one gets it! anyway did you replace the rubber grommet on the idle adjust screw? that could be a problem though I doubt it. the ISV - ECU thing is correct as well, I blew an ECU like that. plugging it and unplugging while running... bad idea...

is your C a US spec C? cause your gallon thing says 15 and your readout is in MPH...??? sounds like fuel delivery problem BTW

Im talking to a VW master mechanic right now, he works for a local garage in the area, let me get this right, all the problems go away when the Wide open throttle switch is taped shut?