potatonet

car squeeks in rear passenger portion of car, sounds like its behind the panel in the rear near the bottom. only does it on left turns. right turns makes it go away... bad bushings in rear beam? bad shock? sounds like inside car but the left turn thing makes me think otherwise.

found the problem, blew my fuse on the fan, 2nd fuse Ive blown recently.... the other was my tail lights, wonder where my short is...

ok so I need brakes all around and I was looking at the 11" rear brakes for the corrado from the BBM website, I have new rear bearings, am going to get bushings, and need to know what carriers, calipers, and rotors I need to convert to 4 lug 11" rear brakes. anyone?

problem with VT mounts is that they distribute 2/3 the load the the front brace, I did the math. the front brace will break @ 178000 cycles, fatigue limit etc. Im a materials engineer doing masters work on fatigue limit and FEA. I reccommend blowing out your stock mount unless you feel like making your bracket out of Ti or chro moly. another solution would be to make the front mount out of 304 steel. Dont worry guys Im working on it. =-)

hey supercharged, are you using an SNS chip? and what does it read to? my max boost is dependent on the closure of my valve, max of 27 psi but what are you using as max boost? Im about to buy the BBM chip that reads to 21 psi, Im running 18, just wondering what 5.5 does for you. P.S. when you run 18+ psi on a G60 head you tend to blow these coolant flanges rapidly.

yeah I have been using the proper VW ones since I owned my car. anyone have access to an Al casting machine besides me? I think I am going to design them in solidworks, Ive got some time now that I am done with testing. I hate plastic ones. I have access to Zinc-Al possibly investment casting and sand casting. very simple design. If anyone has access to casting then I will send them the file from solidworks for a rapid prototyping machine to print out. let me know. I might be able to scan them using the 3d printer we have at school, which would be totally awesome! Im out for a goal of lyshom'ed G60 engines and reliable parts, just in case you didnt notice already.

alright guys, I hate plastic, its a load of crap and deforms on my head. does someone make the flanges for the 8V head in aluminum? Im talking all the flanges, the side the front and the one on the water pump. plastic sucks, stupid VW and their maintenance.

weld it up, I had mine like that. I went through 4 of these things... I was going to redesign the bracket and cast it but it was gonna take time away from college.

when I get the damn thing running again I will make a video for you. and my valve cover was glass beaded so I just spray some brake kleen on it and voila, good as new.

yes I have taken the head apart, too many times for my liking. I left it dirty like that because I lived on a gravel road and minor amounts of oil would get on the head and then cause a real mess, recently its been dirty because I havent got my PCV valve worked into a catch tank & its a PCV from a golf since we have no corrado's here in the US to take parts from, or approx 18000 across the US. only thing left stock on the car are the rods. Im changing those as fast as I can, I have to deal with my current engine trouble first. no its not 360 I was ambitious, its about 245 @ wheels for hp and 275 for torque, you cant really trust those G-force meter things tho.

OK so here is what I have done to diagnose this problem, 1. unplugged O2 sensor, still did it. 2. checked my injectors, all fire at all times. 3. checked injector wiring (before injectors). 4. swapped the blue CTS sensor wire with the black sensor wire. here is a video, engine runs fine but its got no power and feels like 3 cylinders.

yeah it still does the faulty running with the sensor unplugged, I took it for a drive today sounds to me like I am running without an injector. going to take out the injectors this weekend and test my wiring.

to add to that on start up my O2 sensor read .7VDC and slowly crept down to .07VDC, after engine ran warm it stayed at .02V through revving. also when driving my car would suddenly pick up and drive fine, then drive like crap a few moments later. it would toggle like that intermittently while driving on a warm engine. any people with G60's have their O2 sensor blow and what happens, I previously replaced this sensor thinking it was broken but it wasn't, newer one could be broken. and last but not least does anyone have the blink code readout from a G60 ECU and know how I can make my own blinker =-). thanks guys!!!

checked spark plugs, checked BTS sensor, fuel system was rewired recently. Car runs fine when engine is cold. once warmed up engine ~5 mins sounds like a subaru, like im losing a cylinder. AFR readings are inconsistent, sometimes really rich, sometimes lean and it jumps around. engine cools down for a few minutes and runs fine for a second. anyone have some tests? thanks guys.

.... I'll catch up to you sooner or later ben -.- what gear box are you using the TDI gears with, looks promising to me, I cant stand my passat 3.94 FG and close ratio @ the same time. and me thinks Im gonna add a little whistle to my S/C'd equation if you catch my drift.

oh it runs excellently. right now I have it limited to 17 psi but I am bleeding off quite a bit. Im kinda lazy and dont have my 30# injectors in yet. need to silence the damn thing first. but it hauls some serious ass, air coming out of FMIC is pretty damn cold. hmmm other than that there isnt much to it. I only turn the thing on when I hit a stop light onto the freeway or when I feel like getting my ass handed to me at low speeds. the boost is much more effective from 0 - 70, when it hits 90 it becomes effective again, dont know why that range sucks though. this is why I am very close to adding a decently sized turbo to the equation. keeps the boost coming and I can turn the supercharger off at high speeds to increase performance. havent fully decided on it yet though. just because it would be a pain in the ass to pipe. other than that Im happy, I will get it dynoed with full boost in a few months but am not looking forward to throwing 20+ psi into my engine.

alright so did ben actually sell the beast?

yeah I have some small lag issues but I dont have the same heat problem that you guys have. my charger is geared in the front of the charger and the oil is sealed in there so there is really no heat where the lobes and rotor are. and everything inside the supercharger case has teflon layering on it to keep friction down. the actual supercharger is quite small only about 10 inches. It takes a second to spool up because it has to spin that massive clutch. I can change the clutch to a real pulley but thats no fun, it would eliminate the clutch and thats the whole reason why I put it on! who is peter tong? Im from the US... my charger will probably end up being mounted on 4 sides to stop the siezing completely. I have it mounted on 3 sides right now, one sides just has 1 bolt (still helps) but Im 110% that the supercharger wont move right now and its not in siezing position, just hope I dont have to take it out.... how much HP were you running at 18 psi say? I dont want to spend 100 US to go get the car dynoed. plus I need a diff so... anyway back to the pulley size thing. since you have the passat pulley can you tell me how tall it is laying on the ground flat and how large the inner diameter of the pulley is? or just post a picture...? I need measurements and can definitely not afford to buy it off you, rent sucks my money up.

sam did yours sieze? my system is a bit different than yours but I understand why you are saying that. when my S/C siezed the first time it just stopped the engine. Still all that force was going to the internals of the charger. and how much bigger is the pulley than a standard corrado pulley?

oh and to add, I can tighten the bolts on the car if the supercharger is warm and it wont sieze when it gets cold. just thought I would add that tidbit.

~1.8 drive ratio I guess with a 75mm pulley on the charger and a 5.5" pulley? (standard G60) whatever that size is. someone running it on a subaru wrx sti ran it at 512 cfm which is more than enough for me but it wont happen on my engine. looking at a WRX for pulley size tomorrow. when any supercharged system obtains a pressure larger than the pressure the supercharger is putting out, for a lysholm its 26.1 psi, the air becomes stagnant air briefly while the engine eats more air. so when my car reaches 26.1 psi it doesnt go any higher, I get some pressure max's of 27.5 but thats just funky peaks. also these tests are on a closed loop system so there is no air escaping, just going into a chamber with a gauge on it. sooo anyway, the way the car is right now it puts out 470 cfm@ 6k, good enough for me! but if I want the boost faster... lower rpms and such I get a larger pulley. yes it will move more air overall but until I get a big valve head, racing intake manifold, and porting I will obtain 26 psi and just stay there. what is going to happen in less than a month is I am getting an electronic boost controller for a turbo system and putting it on there to bleed the boost out, I dont need 26 psi nor do I want 26 psi I have my gate valve thing set for 16 psi right now and its more than enough for the time being, yes I am still going to be running at 24 psi one of these days but I feel that since i dont have a diff (yes yes I know I know) I cant utilize the boost (can barely utilize it now). say I have a 5.25" crank pulley... now at 2500 rpms, it gets into usable boost, say 225 cfms? now thats at 2500 rpms, I had to wait a while to get there right? currently I am bleeding off some boost... if I wanted the boost to be there sooner I could close the pool valve more and bleed less but it would raise max boost further.... dont want that. now say I have a 6" maybe 6.5" crank pulley.... now at 1500 rpms I get into usable boost, see that I waited much less time to get the usable boost. equating to more power faster and yadda yadda, now since I have a boost controller on there for a max system pressure of 16 psi it will just bleed the rest of it off. the important thing is that it got there faster. Evolution motorsports makes a 7" pulley for the actual mercedes it came off of so I know my max pulley size is 7" safely, the guy in holland used a 200mm pulley (loony guy). he got his boost much faster and everything else. he told me to go find one off a car somewhere because making one was a pain in the ass, he sold his corrado and is now putting it on an opel. I must emphazise to other readers that YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS TO A G LADER you will more than likely blow it up if you are using a modified pulley. soooo yeah I need that I.D. and distance from base of pulley to end of pulley (height of pulley if you laid it on the floor) just if anyone has one laying around. *cough cough darrin cough cough...* :lol:

hey D, I know the passat runs a larger pulley I have etka and know the part number but I am looking for a way bigger pulley. The passat is a whopping 3mm if I heard correct. Im looking for about 40-60mm. boost comes on quick in my car now but it would be nice if I didnt have the second and a half of lag. speaking of cars how is your syncro dealy coming? oh and I found out that if you try to bolt the supercharger to a bracket from 2 opposing directions you will temporarily seize the supercharger, only if they are too tight though. (bends the charger housing and creates a lock) if you look at my pictures you will see what Im talking about, bolting on the intake side then bolting on the "mounting" side with the 2 large bolts doesnt work too well. so I dont think bolting your supercharger on by drilling and tapping holes in the body of the charger is the greatest idea. just something I ran into that I dont think you want to run into.

sooo guys, the AMG supercharger in my car is completely operational and running at 16 psi right now until I get the chip for 24 psi, just an update but right now I am looking for a crank pulley that is about 6-7" and will work for a corrado, something VW preferably but I think I am going to end up making one if I cant find an easy solution. I will bolt the stock Vibration dampener and other pulley & gear for timing, what I really need to know is the inner diameter size of the hole in the stock corrado pulley and if anyone has one a picture of one..... thanks guys Im not looking for more boost, peak boost in a lysholm is 26.1 psi according to some guy from holland I just want the boost faster, Im looking at adding a turbo to the system for a twincharged setup but thats definitely a project for next year.

my car had been off for 8 hours and I had measured the current on the positive wire, but over there its the negative wire I guess... we have a - ground here. it was eating batteries up left and right. anyway Im gonna try and work out the passat thing and get both windows working with no draw. cool guys, new mod!

so what about a passat? can I just use a passat module and get away with having 2 windows go down at once.