VW_OwneR_85

this is the exact model i originally had, i ordered this exact one again http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Keyless-Entry-for-car-central-lock-KE669W-ULT-/360621012598?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53f6aff676 however im pretty certain they sent me the second one down on your link ke669HC pretty certain its updated version and they havnt updated ebay with it, yea AH blanks, i already had mine so just swapped blades over.

silver centers with red bbs badge look sweet!! maybe even better topped with gold bolts!

Anyone used the rightclick ones?

yea thats the one i have, Im not sure what to say about them really, install was good and worked straight away no hassel, how ever! a few weeks back i noticed that my locking wasnt working anymore, baring in mind this isnt a car i use every day and its been locked in my ownership for about 50hrs as its always locked away in my shed, i checked fuse and earths and lives and relevant lock/unlock wires and there good! hard soldered aswell, the LED light on the fob flashs blue when you press any buttons and that was still lighting up but i guess the batterys could have been flat enough? Messaged rightclick through there tech support page telling them of my problem and asking what size batterys the fobs take as i want to replace them, i got this reply....

"You have some loose connections some where!!!

nearly 99.9% of all problems is loose connections or bad contacts,,, you need to solder wires and not use the RED PLUGS,,, they are fine for some connections but in general they are not good to use for a long time or they have not been pressed properly,,,

*** because the system worked!,,, then it will work for ever... unless there is wires-connections-problem "

feeling pretty p155ed off as i told them i soldered them and that the fob isnt communicating with the unit at all! and they still didnt tell me what batterys i needed , i stripped fob , got new battery , fitted , followed the learn procedure with no success! i brought another rightclick kit the exact same one, i then directly swapped over the main unit as the wiring is identical so it just plugs straight in to what i already have installed , press lock on the new fob and BAM! it works! messaged them again telling them this and they send that exact copy and paste message from above! f-kn a55 holes with no real customer support! anyway i think there may have been a problem with the old fobs as these ones have different internal design to the old one i had , they do work but for how long i dont actually know,

btw i originally fitted it about 3years ago but it has had very little use and i mean very little!

long shot but worth trying b4 ripping door card off, winde down window all way, pull off interior trim across window , will be tricky with door card on, this will expose a gap into door and might allow you access to the latch , look for where the rods go with torch, , might be able to push latch down with a bent coat hanger etc , failing that try n remove door card

ah fark! i see , but worth it! love mods like this that actually make a difference! how did you modify the ball socket? cut and thread it?

nice upgrade! cant belive that actually fits though! i remember the servo on mine being a right pig to get in and out,

are you sure theres no fuse on headlight loom? it will come off the battery + , follow that wire, i recently seen a post in regards to water proofing relays as some may get corrosion damage if there not water tight, so i wouldn't rule them out, you need to test with multimeter

yea im just paranoid about it sticking down whilst in traffic,, What actually springs the clutch pedal back? im guessing the clutch? is it aided by a return spring on the pedal aswell? because mine kinda feels lighter then before

how do you mean it works at the door ? {lol never mind me being slow} , i initially tested mine out of the car by hooking up live and earth to a car battery then get a 12v bulb ( or a multimeter) on the suspected lock wire and another wire from bulb back to - on battery, then press lock on the fob , bulb should light up briefly for a second, do same for unlock wire if you cant get voltage from them two wires by pressing unlock/lock then its never going to work in the car, P.s test the bulb works first by hooking that to battery first, , previous to my rightclick kit i had some random locking kit and in any scenario both lock and unlock wouldn't work, so its possible yours doesn't

no update as of yet, my pedal is working properly though, its just that one time it stayed down, i did drive it and gear changes is good although im paranoid about it sticking down when feathering the clutch so i avoided that,

tightly wrap masking tape around the cut then use a cutting disc on grinder, dremel should be ok, the tape stops it from freying out, keep tape on after its cut too, also dont forget to clean hose out , i blew them with airline, could use water with hose but need to be dryed out

i think the problem with 2 person push/pump method is once the fluid has been pushed out and nipple closed off your creating a vacum which is why the pedal stays down, im kinda going through the same thing after clutch hose replacement, got a good pedal and all seemd well but then after reversing out the shed being on the clutch alot as its not a straight out drive it slowly started to stay down but with it being in gear still, very dodgy! , either air trapped or internal leaking, had to switch off and pull clutch up, after a few pumps it was fine but im still paranoid about it going again, btw i can hold clutch down in gear without the clutch engaging so that tells me its not internal leaking ?? and feels good and i can change gear no problem,going to pressure bleed from reservoir tomo to cover my bases, dont like pressure bleeder coz my feed hoses normally p155 out..

without sounding like a dirty bstrd - as its a really good fit to help ease the hose on i used silicone grease on the male pipe so wont contaminate with the fuel, i also used the same hose {size AN-3} on my clutch slave hose with m12 fittings..

yea i used jubilee clips as it does state on there page to use them, there hose finishers are jubilee clips, but also i couldnt find the right size spring clamp, another thing to mention is if you were to use spring clamps it would need to be a very good tight fit! as the ptfe hose is hard! also that hose is such a good tight fit that it probably seals itself without clamps but obviously you need some thing, ah forgot you got the tool for the other type clamps so not a problem ;) yea i belive there was a raised bit just like the ends in the bay :)

Yes Please!

EDIT : didnt see your post at the time aide ;)

i kinda did the same thing to mine, just carefully cut the metal crimps off with a grinder/or hacksaw and thats it, the plastic ends {under the crimp and rubber} has a metal liner to take compression, basically the same as whats found in the engine bay , my crimp was so badly corroded it didnt take much cutting, that valve bit , im not 100% sure but i would say its a non return valve , not much else it could be ...

iv just used nylon braided PTFE core AN-6 in my engine bay as my old {less then 2years!!!} hose was perished and leaking already! check out the specs of it, blady good stuff!

oopps original link i posted was for a different hose!! heres the actual stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-8mm-5-16-NYLON-Braided-PTFE-Teflon-Fuel-Hose-1m-/381023190970?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58b6c07fba

yea i dont think theres an over flow issue, the gap that allows water in is pretty small, less then 1mm? so thats not a great deal of water, think that tubular rubber is deffo worth checking out, looking at the pic it looks like it compress's against the drain when the panel's fully closed ?

 

 

1st line of defence is the black outside seals.

2nd line this black tube along the back?

 

 

 

 

3. Refurb the black tube seal at the back of sunroof

or remember that rubber tubular seal on the inside of the inner panel? maybe thats supposed to deflect water into the drain? iirc its bonded maybe become unstuck?

so in theory then your drain was in the normal position,

this is my friend car.4 wheel drive.

Nice! does he have a build thread on any forums? tell me more :)

ah skrew the moon roof, fix the one you got ;)

When i was fitting my rear seats the other week i noticed a strange single red wire going to the boot lamp, didnt know wtf it did but now i do!

The more you know :)

 

 

Now

I understand when water leaks thru the sunroof headliner

(As the drain channel not wide enough UNDER the sunroof seal at the back of the sunroof)

its just slid back, it needs to be centered over that SunRoof panel edge , push/slide the channel towards the front {it will also move the S/R inner panel} pretty sure theres supposed to be a lock/catch to stop it from moving , i havent been able to test mine yet as i had the same problem after re fitting my S/R, as i wasnt aware that channel could move back and forth.

i could of sworn i seen abit of moisture on the tube/hose connection {nevermind} , theres only one other way yours can be leaking from then , you see in the 2nd and 3rd pictures , you can see joins with black adhesive/mastic , could be seeping through them joins? have you been in the car with someone pouring water on the S/R? dry everything off before you do {if you havent already} , you got the headliner off already, just unbolt the sunroof and pull the whole lot out in one, its easy! really easy! will take you less then 10minutes and you only need a 10mm socket, you cant mess up any alignment or anything like that, then set it up level on a bench or what ever, block off the drain holes and fill it with water to test the joints , to get it back in though you ideally need two people so you dont scratch the paint work but not much can go wrong, worth doing,

its leaking from the drain tubes right? idd use some type of sealant on the male end of your drains {before pushing the drain hose on it} if you havent already done so, then finish off with a cable tie around the drain hose end pulling tight with pliers acting like a jubilee clip should be good! ;)

crazy money and thats just for the engine!, theres quite a few vids on youtube of r36 rados now, been awhile since i last looked more and more keep popping up,

Sean im under the impression there in the same ball park dimension wise as the 3.2? there being fitted into rados and mk2s so there cant be much in it if any,

HAHA i love this! from 1:30 secs , some loud obnoxious car blowing its own trumpet then theres the rado just chillen! says it all really :)