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VW_OwneR_85

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Posts posted by VW_OwneR_85


  1. sorry dont have an exact answer but with something like this idd go to vw dealer parts counter and ask them for a price on the parts and part numbers, then you know 100% what your getting, if you have the chassis number of the car that engine came from then it would make it alot easier,


  2. power steering is good!that 24v pump works a treat so thats all done as far as im concerned..

     

    After replacing the clutch hose/ bleeding, the clutch pedal initially felt normal with changing gear etc but after being on the clutch carefully reversing out the shed it stuck down and had to switch off the engine as i couldnt put it in neutral and it wanted to goooo! re bled it and all seemed ok, drove fine but again after keeping the clutch down for a long ish period it doesnt like it, so i brought a new master cylinder from ebay , cost like £55 but its something that you cant really do without and seeing as the old ones probably the original idd say it lasted quite well,

     

    DSCF0386_zpsiauxxjoz.jpg

     

    The old filling hose has seen better days , i had some ptfe stuff left over which happens to be the same bore size , i had to shave down the plastic barbs on the reservoir and inlet on M/C with a blade in order to fit that hose but its a nice tight self sealing fit,

     

    DSCF0390_zpslsdjp5b6.jpg

     

    i had to use an M8 thread tap to cut threads in, as there not bolts there actually studs which made my life a little harder as i didnt know,

    so if your doing this get two 2" long stainless M8 studs and 1 nut + M8 tap ready,

    DSCF0389_zpsi6sxlgvz.jpg

     

    DSCF0391_zps64z1yehq.jpg

     

    DSCF0392_zpsgymyvwov.jpg

     

    Picked up some vr6 BBs alloys {15"} and had them sand blasted, there going VW diamond silver! doing the inside black just incase i change my mind in the future , going back to sensible 15"/50/ tyres.

     

    iv epoxy primed followed by upols 2k highbuild wet on wet, right now there primed and sanded back, blasting left a harsh texture and there going to need more priming before colour, Not nice wheels to sand :(

     

     

    Blasted....

    DSCF0384_zpsondn1irl.jpg


  3. you need to seal it all with a 2k primer first, or you could try upols bar coat , The solvents in celly or solvent basecoat or any paint with a high solvent content wont effect a 2k surface...

     

    edit: sand the reacted areas smooth then seal the whole thing with 2k primer or upol barcoat


  4. donor corrado would deffo be the way to go, IMO doing this on a drive would be an absolute chore, your better off renting a shed for the winter and doing it then, especially as your going to want to replace things like crank seals, clutch, timing chains etc, and theres all ways something that pops up where you got to order it,


  5. Hi,i dd check out MAF sensor and its plug/conections for corrosion and wiring to it. Also worth looking at ISV idle stability valve if your symptoms only happen when idling. also worth looking at the rubber breather hose off the cam cover to intake hose as they do split,


  6.  

     

    Maybe u guys are right.

    Don't buy Rover!

     

    1. Rear lights leaking water into boot

    2. Radiator fan low speed broke

    3. Stinky air con

    4. Whining noise from engine

    5. Concerns cambelt/water pump incorrectly fitted

    6. Needs 2 new tyres

    7. Gearbox oil needs changing

    Etc

    Etc

     

     

    Wayne STILL the unluckiest person alive OR dead on this planet! :eek:

     

    Still,

    At least it's not broke down......

    gutted but you have to expect some issues with used cars,

    if i was you .....

    1- remove light and re seal with silicone. 2- ignore unless fan doesnt work at all, 3-Dont use air con or try air con sanitizer spray, 4- dont bother 5- dont bother, 6- buy new tyres, 7- might aswell its cheap... if dies it dies because of 5 and 6 then no biggy just move on..


  7. If anyone has a set of these for the Corrado that you'd be willing to part with, I'm all ears.

     

    Would rather see what's available, if anything, before attempting a DIY job...

     

    why not remove yours and take them to your nearest bodyshop to do, wont take long and your only paying for labour/materials as opposed to another set of lights, and its garunteed pro job which makes it easier to sell on..


  8. Leon263 used to do them before and i think his are perhaps the best i've seen - this pics speak for themselves

    yea they look good for £60 , my comment wasnt meant to come across as disrespectful or really aimed at the OP , it was only to educate people interested that if they are cleared with a 2k clear then they will be alot better! they will have that plasticy deep gloss look that will last, FYI its highly doubtful you would come across a set of lights cleared with 2k for less then £100.00 and anybody willing to buy all rears for £100 or more should know if there done with 2k clear regardless of how good the picture looks, google 2k clear vs 1k clear....might look the same in a photo but its not...

     

     

    http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17751


  9. im surprised no one has started buying up standard lights and tinting them to sell on they allways go quick!

    any volunteers? im after a set..

     

    yep iv thought about doing them, just dont have the time to deal with P&P, also i want you guys to be aware that they ideally want to be clear coated with 2k/2Pac clear, the same clear that the bodyshop would use. spray cann clear "can" look good with polishing but the gloss wont be the same and it wont last like 2k will , just something to consider,


  10. could be a number of places, ideally you want to check over the entire cooling system, rad and its connections/top elbow, water pump and plastic distribution pipe (A.K.A crack pipe ) and thermostat housing and all rubber hoses and expansion bottle & cap etc , pink staining is tell tale sign of coolant leaks, IMO if you havent had the water pump, crack pipe and thermostat housing replaced then get them done anyway as preventative maintenance, apart from the pump there plastic items and over the years with the heat become brittle and break, ticking time bomb with old vr's


  11. something like that can easily be done outside with spray can , where a glove and hold it from the hinge as you spray it, then bring it straight inside being careful not to hit it, place it by an open window, you want the air/draft forcing out of the room/window so make sure you open the right one's depending on wind conditions, failing that im sure it would be fine in bath room with extractor fan on .

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