VW_OwneR_85

Its a bitch isn't it!! Yep 80 Grit using DA. took me about 4 hours per bumper. In total we have spent approx 60 hours stripping this car. We estimate another 20 hours prep before any paint and then 80 hours paint. Roughly 200 hours including engine.

yep its a bitch alright! a lot of hours but then 80hrs is only 2 weeks and i bet you could easily make the 80 into 100 , keep it up!

good stuff! good decision for swapping shells, something i should of done!

This is what happened when the guy that bought my accident damaged valver decided to drive it to his yard for breaking. It wouldn't close properly, so was held on with just the catch.

 

 

 

 

 

When you say "accident damged" and "the bonnet couldnt close" this leads me to belive that the slam panel was already messed up,in which case im not surprised the bonnet latch gave way, look at what it had to hold on too! lol

P.S love the g12 washer bottle coolant haha

awesome work! , out of interest what was your method for removing paint on the bumper 80 grit DA?, i just took 6 paint layers off of mine and took for ever!

strange problem this week.

 

my car died on me during a short drive this week and has not started since, it does turn over when the key is turned.

 

k-line communication and throttle body noise only happen sporadically, so i'm wondering if the ECU is not getting a proper switched live for one reason on another ..... which pin on the two plugs for a mk4 ECU feed switched power?

http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af140/argdub/bootpin142.jpg

inboxing you now,

Anyone got a rust free boot lid going? preferably down south dorset area, cheers..

gona be good to see this, will it be available to watch online at all?. I think the price is good considering whats been done, buy a cheap one and your forever replacing parts and dealing with the hassle of it,

right so looking back ,you could just drill out the passenger side hole and use a bolt straight through and then jam a spanner on it to stop it from spinning as you do it up, but then you still might have problems with the drivers side bolt, at the time i thought thread tap was the only way,

yea you could but you would either have to drill it out or use smaller diameter bolts as its the correct size to thread tapp for the current studs N nuts, how ever on the side nearset the drivers side its very tight and i didnt think theres room for a head of a bolt to stick out or room for a spanner , think thats why vw used studs? you might be able to idk have a look and see what you think at the time, i just thread tapped it and used the original nuts and then a stainless nut on the heat sheild so it looks new...

just replace it budd and the hose if it looks dodgy , its not hard to replace at all, this is the one i brought for my vr6, best check to see if it fits yours {cant see why not}, its made by bosch which is very good quality , theres cheaper ones out there but you pay for what you get..http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-VW-CORRADO-53I-2-9-VR6-Coupe-190-BHP-Top-German-Quality-/400777974942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d503a949e the only downside is i needed to thread tapp the bolt holes {pretty sure its M-8} as the master is held in by studs not bolts and that master cylinder didnt come with threads cut, i may of been able to use smaller diameter bolts and nuts but its fairly tight on the drivers side,

Nice!they suit the rado rather well,

yea fendervrg's got a point, as my clutch issue only started happening after i replaced my clutch hose, guess the old seals didnt like bleeding,

yea in theory that would suggest the clutch seals arent letting fluid past but that might not be why the pedals staying down , my test was just hold the clutch down for ages with the engine running and in gear at no point did i start to move or the bite point change so to me mine wasnt leaking either, i did have one moment when it first stayed down that i had to switch off the engine as it wanted to carry on reversing with the clutch on the floor! but that never happend again, just old components that are worn/deteriorated..

had a similar problem in that i could drive and change gear fine but after being on the clutch for say more then 20 secs the clutch pedal didnt like returning and at one point it did stay down,i couldnt tell if the master cylinder seals were leaking either , i could hold the clutch down for ages and the bite point wouldnt change... new master cylinder fixed it, i guess the seals deteriorated, theres obviously a chance it might not be the master but its a good place to start and if it looks old then chances are its the original one, IMO might aswell replace it as preventative maintenance seeing as theres a very high chance it will solve your issue

the only reason the media are playing this is because of the clarity of the cctv footage,theres a pretty good chance he will be identified, we may not know the full story behind this but its a fact that this happens on a daily basis to good people that dont deserve it, its happend to members on here before for no good reason so theres a good chance that this guys just a bell 3nd,

they look cheap and we all know that you pay for what you get but might be ok for what you want,, it does say it fits corrado, atleast renew the top mounts and bearings with oem quality items..

in that case idd say spend out get front end done and service (as its worth more and more appealing to buyers) , then use it for awhile and decide to keep or sell.

i'll make it easy for you, sell it......... by keeping it in a garage your loosing space and eventually you will end up having to sort it out anyway so why waste the space and time, unless its because you lost the love, then in that case let it sit for awhile and come back to it.

did you smell anything like burning wires?, pull out the fusebox and have a good look around...

, idd want mint paint work but at the same time i dont, its nice parking up and not giving a shxx about it getting dinged n scratched, if your board then sell up and get something else or maybe look into an engine conversion 1.8T ? just bare in mind a respray isnt going to change the way it drives..

"pedal drop outs" i had a problem with my pedal intermittently cutting out after a set time, only way to make it work again was to switch engine off and it would work for a short period again but that period was dramatically reduced the more you restarted, , i hooked up the mk4 brake and clutch switch to ecu and that sorted that,

yea no worrys, dont forget windscreen adhesive kit

used on ebay, haha check this out, instead of cutting out the glass he cut the panel! they are a bitch to cut out tho ;) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-Drivers-Side-Rear-Window-/301688680923?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item463e0bf1db get your self a decent craft knife,, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-Drivers-Side-Rear-Window-/301688680923?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item463e0bf1db

possible slave or master cylinder at fault, you can disconnect the clutch Master cylinder at the pedal with a flat screwdriver by removing the clip to see how free the pedal itself actually moves, i just replaced my M/C for the same reason, pics in my thread,members gallery last page if interested

im fairly certain you can put the bolts through the top or bottom, jamo makes a very good point about putting them through the top which i will do from now on, the only reason i put them through the bottom was because you have easy access to tighten them, its just one of them things where it needs to be fully shipped before you bolt it and tighten