DriverVR6

I was wondering were these had gone to with you selling your car?

Very nice set of seats. If I was in the market for a set, then I would have no hesitation in buying them off you.

Good luck with the sale.

The T1-Rs are useless in the wet. And that's based on a car with KW V3s, R32 wishbone bushes, replaced rear axle bushes and spot on geometry. Obviously any tyre hitting a patch of diesel on a wet roundabout won't perform well, but in general wet weather, the Toyos are poor. Not as bad as Yokohamas, but not far off, imo.

 

And I've found VR6s don't work well with an arrowhead tyre tread. Stick to assymetric patterns like Continental and Bridgestone.

You're not kidding!!!!!!!!!

Personally I would not bother upgrading to multi-pistons on a sliding caliper design. I'd go to 4 piston fixed caliper, but not a 2 piston sliding caliper.

Cons

1/ You may need to change to a different brake master cylinder as the Girling 60 calipers have 2 pistons so they require a greater volume of brake fluid.

2/ If the calipers are not brand new then you risk uneven braking as with 2 pistons each side instead of the usual 1 there is "more to go wrong".

3/ You may cause the brake bias to move too far forward and you will then need to adjust the rear brake proportioning valve.

Pros

1/ 2 smaller pistons will give increased effective disc diameter and you can use larger pads.

2/ Even pad wear as the pad is better supported over its entire length resulting in more even pressure.

Oh,ok,so, if they don't sell , you'll put the price up?

Good luck with that :lol:

That's right, if they don't sell, I put them into storage and then re-advertise them later including the "OST".

As for me needing good luck, the same approach worked with other stuff I've sold. So no luck needed. :smug:

Claim lawyers say, "Where's there's blame, there's a claim".

I say, "When they can no longer get the part, they will pay you more for the part!"

What is OST ?

OST is "Obsolete & Storage Taxation".

Oral Sex Trade

Hahaha Mr Jim Bowen, that's disgusting. I think you've been watching the Babe Channel too much. lol

Last few days to buy these after which I'll be adding "OST" to the asking price.

They're in perfect working condition and essential if you want your car to be a concours winner! The concours judges will spot it if you've got anything else in your speaker pods!! I'm telling you they will and there's no cheating with these concours judges!!!

How much for the centre console part if it's not sold please?

Controls and Centre Console provisionally sold at the moment, and someone else has 2nd refusal on the Centre Console. I will let you know if that changes and the Centre Console becomes available.

A proper car. Over engineered and pure class.

On my wish list and would definitely be one of the cars in my "dream garage".

I'm no expert so please dont take this as arguing with you DriverVR6, but I thought that lightening the fly, crank etc would give some gains in rpm, the less weight there is to turn, then the faster it will spin up meaning it would also rev higher.

 

Does that also mean things like knife edging the crank would not be done anymore either

The purpose of lightening and balancing is, as you say, to increase the rpm that the standard crank will cope with whilst maintaining reliability. Lightening and balancing will add about 250 to 400 rpm to what a standard crank can handle safely. It will do precisely jack to increase the power as bhp tails off at high rpm as other limitations in the engine become a factor.

Increase the rpm and have a gas flowed head and a cam that will feed the fuel (larger carburettors or performance injection system) and extract the exhaust (tubular manifolds and straight through exhaust systems) at higher rpm's, then yes you will get more power. However, you will lose low end tractability and idle will suffer. Ask anyone that has fitted OTT cams to any engine.

It's the same theory for every normally aspirated engine, be it a VW VR6 or a Ford OHC Pinto.

The questions to ask yourself is firstly, do you drive you VR6 at max rpms, and secondly is your name Ayrton Senna or Alain Prost or Gilles Villeneuve?

If you answer NO to both these questions then what I would do is build a reliable engine which starts perfectly, pulls strongly and will cope with the miles without any problems, but then I'm "old school".

There's no way that stop start driving and braking from 30mph to 0mph will cause your brakes to get so hot as to result in having no brakes at all.

For it to happen you must have a serious amount of water in your brake fluid or some other defect?

Let me know the colour and reg of your Corrado so that if you come up behind me I'll know it's you and I'll pull over and let you go past!!

Jim,

I used to build "race spec" engines many years ago and used to have them fully lightened and balanced. I used a place in Brierley Hill called Aldon Automotive.

Lightening and Balancing does nothing for engine power. All it does is improve the smoothness and reliability of the engine at very high revs.

All engines are balanced in OE form. Aftermarket balancing just does it to a finer tolerance.

Lightening just takes away any excess metal from the moving parts like the pistons, conrods, etc to lower the stress put on the crankshaft due to the inertia effect.

I would never recommend having an engine balanced and lightened unless you are going to use it for serious track/racing purposes.

Also, if in the future you install a new clutch kit (pressure plate and clutch plate) your engine will be back to it's OE "unbalanced" condition.

If you do have the engine lightened and balanced, then you need to take along the crankshaft and everything that attaches to the crankshaft....pistons, pins, conrods, flywheel, clutch pressure plate, clutch plate, front pulley, etc.

Steering wheel and boss kit received today and all in as described excellent condition. Many Thanks.

I could do with the rears as I was thinking of putting some speakers in mine so a set already damaged is cool. If the buyer for the fronts doesn't want the rears could you throw them in a bin bag and I pay for postage? Cheers.

Sorry rears went to the buyer with the fronts.

Is it just me or is the site working very very slowly?

All other websites are working okay for me, it's just the Corrado Forum which is very slow??????

SOLD

Photos of additional parts requested.

Replied to your PM.

Late Rotary Style Heater Control Unit

Late Style Rotary Knob Heater Control Unit.

All clips are intact and in place. Not sure were these usually break from so ask if you want to know anything else. I've put pictures up showing every angle I can.

Payment is by cash or postal order as I do not have Paypal.

Prefer it to be collected from Birmingham so you can try it before you buy and to avoid it being damaged in the post, but I can post if really need to, but postage will be on top.

List Date: 6/30/2014

For more info, click here to view the original listing: Late Rotary Style Heater Control Unit

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On Sale For: ?70.00

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Mobile friendly version: Late Rotary Style Heater Control Unit

Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Very good point Sean I'm sure if the one's complaining happened to have some of these bit's to sell they wouldn't be selling them for knock down price's some strange character's on this forum.

Agreed. Fact is those who complain about prices being high would sell at a high price themselves if they had the stuff to sell.

Also some absolute rubbish which is only fit for the bin gets sold on here and no one bats an eye lid. So I'm more than happy to pay good money for obsolete new parts.

He/She sold the roof trims for £331.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=87379

Gutted I sold a set for £250. I'll have to remember to increase the amount of "Obsolete Tax" I put onto parts in the future.

I'll take these thanks guys

Dam!

I wanted to charge "Obsolete Tax" on these.

I actually have a bracket off a Golf GTi. And another bracket and front engine mount on a 4 cylinder Corrado still on the car. Will put up a pic and PM you.

Think it's pointless and money straight down the drain. Belongs in "Max Power Magazine" and done by youths (or adults who are still youths) who wear those trousers which are falling down.

Sorry clumpy1, but I couldn't help myself :D

Your car looked quite low a week ago?

With the new springs the front is about the same as when you saw it, but the rear is about 10mm higher now.

Final chance to buy these before I put them away into storage and add the "obsolete tax" to the future price.

These seem to be standard practice with all lowered springs these days. Personally, I've never liked or bought into the whole concept behind them.

So I managed to get hold of some conventional wound springs (slightly lowered and uprated) and tried them on my VR.

Result is the car doesn't feel at all "jiggly" and I've even softened the Koni's by 1/4 a turn front and back.

It feels planted, comfortable and handles bumpy road surfaces much, much better.