DriverVR6
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Content Count
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Joined
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Days Won
1
Posts posted by DriverVR6
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Sorry, sold and delivered.
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Still for sale. I don't have paypal so can only accept payment by cheque, postal order or cash on collection.
£70 collected or posted is £76.85.
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Thanks Dox, I'll give him a try.
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Anyone??
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Need a VR6 OBD1 Bosch Distributor. Part No 021 905 205 AF
Must be in excellent undamaged working condition.
Cheers.
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Provisionally sold to Rorgasm.
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Thanks guys, you've been a big help!
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Jim, thanks mate, but I'm trying to find out which is the TDC mark on the flywheel. Is it the O, l or T??
Mine doesn't have a notch on the front pulley, don't know why, but it doesn't, so I'm having to use the timing marks on the flywheel.
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Hi,
Quick question. I'm trying to work out which is the correct TDC mark on my VR6 flywheel. Is it the O, the straight line in the middle or the T?
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Sorry, I would like £70 collected. Or if anyone wants it posted they will have to cover that cost as it's a heavy item and won't be cheap to post.
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I need this gone, so £70 collected, or posted at extra cost. They're over £150 brand new so I'm letting it go for less than half price!
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12,930 miles. It was supplied and fitted by Stealth Racing and the cars mileage is on the invoice, hence I'm able to state the exact miles it has seen.
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I'm about to do the chains/tensioners/chain guides on mine. I've been trying to decide if I should just stick with the original 2 piece rivetted pad tensioner and "older style" tensioner bolt, or if I should go for the "updated" mk4 one piece tensioner and "newer" tensioner bolt.
Has anyone else had experience with both systems? Pros and cons would be helpful.
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seanl82, thanks mate, that's really helpful.
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Hi, could someone kindly provide me with the part numbers for the bits below. I want to use the mk4 parts so just want to make sure I buy the right parts and they are compatible with my VR6 which currently has the 2 piece riveted upper tensioner, but I want to use the better one piece one. Thanks.
Timing Chain (lower)
Timing Double Chain (upper)
Chain Tensioner (lower)
Chain Tensioner (upper)
Chain Tensioner Bolt (upper)
Chain Guide Side Rail (lower)
Chain Guide Side Rail (upper)
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Ray, the only advice I will offer is if you are going to replace the front caliper, then do BOTH sides at the same time. Otherwise you have a high risk of your left and right braking being unbalanced.
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Thanks Dox. Yes I will consider a coil pack engine to widen my search.
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Still needed.
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Ron, I may have one, I will let you know over the weekend as it's in my storage garage.
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I need an engine, 2.9 VR6. It needs to be the distributor one and not a coil pack one. I would like the engine as complete as possible with as many of the ancillaries attached. It needs to be in good condition and not a scrap one that needs a complete rebuild.
Please pm me if you have one available to sell with the price, condition, etc. Close as possible to Birmingham as I will need to collect.
Cash waiting.
Cheers.
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EnthusiastOwned, thanks for taking the time to write this up. Very useful and informative.
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Brakes
in Drivetrain
I've just put 288's on my VR6. New Caliper pistons and seals, new discs and Pagid pads and Goodrich hoses. Not had the chance to test them properly in anger yet, but with the little testing I did do I noticed that they activate the ABS to kick in much sooner, which may not be a good thing.
The standard VR6 brakes I had, which had brand new calipers and OE discs and pads did seem just as good and more predictable. More importantly, it seemed that the ABS didn't cut in as quickly.
So maybe going to the suggested B4 ABS system is what is needed to really make 288's perform at their best?
However, I'm going to give the 288 setup I now have a proper test in the summer and will then evaluate how they perform.
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MattPc, the part numbers you kindly supplied, are they for the later one piece chain guide (13 on diagram) and later chain tensioner bolt (11 on diagram)? IE, the improved mk4 ones?
Kev, I was going to buy the following in option 3 form. http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/shop/VR6-Timing.htm
Is this the FEBI one that you would NOT recommend?
Price's on the rise???
in Ebay and Misc
Posted
If you follow the classic car scene then you'll realise it's all about keeping the car original and in excellent working condition.
As has already been said, if you make any modifications make sure they are easily reversible with no evidence (damage) that anything was modified.
So keep those original bits if you do modify it!