fla 9 Posted November 9, 2004 ok, back to square one, it died on me after 5 seconds and i didnt even get it out of the drive. fortunately i was in Park so i could push it back into the bay. the missus was NOT impressed, to say the least. Anyone with VAGCOM in the area - i'm in middx? thanx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted November 10, 2004 OH BTW, forgot to mention that I took the battery out for charging - next day when it strated immediately may have been due to the ECU being reset? If so, could it have un-reset (???) itself again? I'll disconnect the battery again and see if i get any joy at least to get it to a garage with VAGCOM. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joebloggsVR69 0 Posted November 10, 2004 Have you got a spare key? Try using that, on the off chance your car has a transponder in the key (although as kev said, this is probably only '95 onwards cars) I had a problem with the car starting, then cutting out about a dozen times, and it was because of the faulty transponder. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted November 22, 2004 OK, the car's been dead for the past week/10 days and as I havent been able to start it I cant take it to a garage to get it on VAGCOM. PLus there doesnt seem to be anyone in the area with VAGCOM. I tried starting it a few times, seemed to turn over fine but no spark. Put the battery on charge overnight, connected it up and wayhay, fired up immediately. Surely it cant be that the starter (which draws max current) can turn over fine but there be insufficient power for ignition? I removed and cleaned some of the connectors around the engine (those that were easily accesible form the top, so I dont know which ones), so maybe its just a loose connection somewhere? Thanks for the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted November 22, 2004 fla, that probably just re-set the ECUs fault codes... get it to a garage ASAP, I'd bet that you'll find an error code in the ECU for the crank sensor... ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted November 22, 2004 (But ignore the "engine speed sensor - no signal" error code unless the crank is turning, by the way..) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted November 22, 2004 Sorry, forgot to mention - I disconnected the battery for 1 day (!) prior to recharging in order to reset the ecu but although after reconnecting it turned over fine, it did not start. Made me think that it probably wasn't the cps in the ned. I'm going to take it for a gentle drive tonight, not too far in case it dies on me again and then get it checked on VAGCOM - actually I'm ordering one through the GB so I may as well wait and do this myself. Any thoughts on the unsuccessful reset of the ecu? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted December 8, 2004 Okay, slight update, but i'm still puzzled. Put the car on VAGCOM and got the following message: " 2 Faults Found: 00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69) 16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications 00638 - Engine/Transmission Electrical Connection 2 03-00 - No Signal" The first was because the ignition was off, of course, but the second makes no sense. Strangely nothing came up about the CPS, so I guess its okay? What should i do about the 00638? Just another thing, with VAGCOM connected the car would turn but not fire. Disconnecting it started after cranking twice. Why would that be and is this normal? Now, following on from another thread re my auto transmission, there was no fault code mentioned for that either (auto would whine in changing from 3rd to 4th and back down again). Any ideas? Kev, Henny, Stevemac? Cheers a bundle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted December 8, 2004 00518 shouldn't come up at all, engine or off. Sounds like it's worn out. I can send you a spare one as they're £45 from the dealers. 00638 - Strange one that. Never seen it before! I only know the basics with autos. Have you replaced the transmisson fluid? A whine usually indicates a rotational component that is worn, an output or idler bearing perhaps? Is it only when changing up down through 3rd and 4th? Is that with manual selection or with it in D? Not sure mate, you might have to consult and auto specialist on that one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted December 8, 2004 Cheers for the info Kev. The whine is either changing manually or in D but it only lasts for about 1 second during the change. I'll change the fluid at the weekend and see if that doesnt help. Re the TPS what would cause it to fail and is there any way I can test it - maybe waving some metal in front of it whilst using a voltmeter? BTW, where is it located (you can tell I'm new to C ownership!)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted December 8, 2004 The TPS tells the ECU what angle the throttle is open at, so I'll give you 5 guesses where it is :D It's the little black plastic box on the side of the throttle. They can just wear out over time mate. Inside them is a carbon track which two metal contacts slide along. The carbon tracks wear through.... takes about 10 years mind :lol: You can stick a voltmeter on it and check the resistance as you rotate it. Not sure what the figures should be though but if the ECU has coded it, it's not happy about it, so replacement is wise. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted December 8, 2004 That'll be why no-one's seen that error. You have an auto box. Clearly some electrical connection to the auto box is flaky. There's an ECU there too, and obviously the engine has interlocks with the auto transmission. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted December 8, 2004 Dr Mat - do you know how to check the autobox ecu with VAGCOM? I just did a total scan to see what it showed up but these were the only two errors. I also tried selecting just the Transmission tab but still got the same response. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted December 8, 2004 Dunno. I'm sure there'll be a module for it, but I dunno which one it is. Maybe it's the wiring to the gearbox that's the problem. BTW - you *did* check the engine earth strap, didn't you? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 25, 2005 This bu***r has reared its ugly head again - battery is fully charged (been out of the car for about 1 week), engine turns over nicely, there's fuel at the fuel rail just no ignition. It turns over nicely. I've cleaned the contacts on that large connector (which were clean anyway), although the earthing strap below the battery has a fair amount of copper salt on it (green). I wouldnt have thought this would afftect it tho? I'll take it off ad give it a clean with a wire brush tomorrow. Oh, and the clocks are out for a new led setup - is there an interlock with the connector to the back of the clocks? 95 VR btw. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 26, 2005 Cleaned the earth strap behind the battery so its nice and shiny, cleaned contact cleaner in as many connectors as I could see but still no luck. Havent driven it for a good few months now (bar one trip to the garage) because of this bloody problem - i was hoping i could nail the problem this weekend. Advice chaps URGENTLY. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 26, 2005 Fuel but no spark.... Have you replaced the ignition switch yet? Another member had the same problem and that was what the cause was. Only use a VW switch, under no circumstances use a GSF one as they are rubbish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 26, 2005 Have ignition! Dunno how though and I have absolutely no idea how to find out why or where to start. The only thing I'm worried about is going somewhere to find it dies on me in the middle of nowhere. I'll get a replacement switch anyways - how much are they? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 26, 2005 You might have ignition to the car, but the coilpack runs from the ignition switch. They suffer a very high load those ignition switches and burn out, which can cause a loss of ignition as in sparks. The VW switch is about £15. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted March 27, 2005 To be safe its probably best to replace it as you said Kev - it's cut out again about 5 times in a 15 mins drive so I'm guessing the ignition switch, plus maybe a clogged fuel filter (at 50 000miles? surprising, but probably worth replacing), but apart from that I'm stumped. I replaced the pressure regulating valve with a pipe and I guess the engine may be just getting used to it. I recently cleaned and lubed the ISV and TB, but it cut out at the junction twice, which are usually typical symptoms of these being a bot grubby, so unless i need to clean them again I am at a bit of a loss as to what to check now. Ideas on a postcard. Thanks all Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 11, 2005 Finally changed the ignition switch - a nioce black VW one as opposed to the white one there (seems someone has replaced it before - is that not a GSF one or was the original Corrado one white?). Still no luck - seems there's no spark as there is fuel in the feed and return lines. How bet should I go about checking for ignition, and is there any way i can do this alone? I'm thinking it will be difficult to reach the ignition whislt holding a lead close to the block to check for a spark. The concern i have is also because the car would, on a straight run, just try an die continuously which suggests a loose connection somewhere, but i'm totally stumped about trying to find out where it is. Can anyone give me a list of things to check for the non-sparking issue? Thanks gents. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 11, 2005 Yeah mine had a white one in it too, which was GSF. You can tell the difference as the VW switch keeps the stereo going until you take the key out. The GSF one doesn't. As for your starting, is the inhibitor switch OK? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 11, 2005 is the inhibitor switch OK? Kev, where is this and how do I check it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 11, 2005 Forgot to mention (if not earlier), it turns over fine, just doesnt want to fire up - i hate immobilisers :mad: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 12, 2005 Well chaps, any advice on the immobiliser? Is there any way i can by-pass it to isolate that as a fault? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites