Rear wheel bearing

[emmafwa 0]

Hi All,

 

Has anyone got any tips on how to change a rear wheel bearing?

 

Looked on the how-to-guides and found nothing.

 

Do I need any spaciel tools?

 

Any help will be great, cheers.

[Supercharged 2]

They are held within the disc so best to do both side with new discs/pads really...

[theRuler 0]

the allen bolts that hold the caliper carriers on can be stubborn, to say the least. have a new set of bolts on standby (from the dealers).

 

get some new discs, pads and bearings. its pretty straightforward to do, as you'll see when you remove the old discs.

bit of careful hammering required to drive the bearing tracks into the new discs.

[stevemac 0]

If you've never done the bearings before - get someone who has, to show you what to do. There are a few horror stories on here from people who have fitted/adjusted them wrongly.. :|

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Agreed with Steve. The torquing of the bearing nut is CRITICAL.

 

The procedure is:-

 

Pack the new bearings with Castrol LM grease. Wind the nut in and nip it up with a socket to fully seat the bearings. Wind the nut out again and do it back up just slightly more than hand tight. Fit the split pin and dust cap and then after 100 miles, recheck the play. You want a very slight amount of play when grabbing the wheel and rocking it sideways - adjust accordingly. If there is no play, the bearings will run too stiff and overheat. The idea behind the play is to allow for the bearings heating up and expanding. At 100mph plus, you don't want those bearings overheating and collapsing!

 

To fit the new bearing shells, tap the old shells out of the old disc with a hammer and screwdriver and using the old shells as drifts, tap the new shells into the new discs.

 

It's not difficult, you just need to be careful with the bearings and calipers.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

It's a good idea to fit new ABS rotors to the disc/hub. About £10 each. The old ones may become distorted when you dismantle the brakes and then give a fault warning when you have re-assembled them.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[emmafwa 0]

Ive got all the parts, discs pads etc and I am quite confident that I can do that bit, but the wheel bearing is another story. All it is is there is a hmmmmmmm coming from the passenger side rear wheel and have been told by the garage that it is the bearing, when they told me how much it would be I decided to have a go myself!!

 

Expect another post after the weekend when it all goes horribly wrong.

 

Cheers for the helpful hints fellas!!!!!

 

Emma

 

P.S Ive been trying to replace my HT leads but the ones that are on the car have got a sensor attatched to lead No 3, is this normal???

 

Anyone know any good sites to get new ones, the main deales by me says 3 - 4 weeks for delivery, what can I say I'm unpatient.

[Henny 0]

you need to take the sensor off the lead (you may have to cut the end off the old lead to get it off) and put it onto the new lead... With any luck, the leads you have bought will have ends which just screw on, so you can unscrew 'em, put on the sensor, and then screw the end back on again... ;) Much easier than having to wait 3-4weeks and finding out you still have to do the same thing anyway! :lol:

 

Get yourself a Haynes manual for a Golf II or Passat (88-94) and follow the instructions in there for the rear wheel bearings as it's identical in the way you do it... 8) Could help you no-end in the future for other jobs too! 8)

 

Good luck! 8) (oh, and it's impatient, not unpatient- yes, I'm pedantic! ;) :lol: )

[Roger Blassberg 0]

The outer track of the bearing is the part that needs to be tapped into the bore of ther hub/disc. Wipe a trace of grease into it first and make sure that you lead the track in dead square or it will jam. Use a piece of wood between the track and the hammer to drive it in until it is flush with the hub face, or press it in in a vice if you have one big enough. Now you have to push it in further until it bottoms out on the raised stop inside the hub; ideally you need a socket or a similar cylindrical drift of the same bore as the hub, or very slightly smaller. Be patient and tap or press it in slowly rather than expecting to do it all in one go. It is a tight fit. Whatever you do, don't raise burrs on the track, otherwise the bearing race will be ruined when assembled.

 

Needless to say, push the grease seal into the rear of the hub - you can do this by finger pressure. The ABS rotor, which looks like a cup of heavy wire mesh, just pushes over the rear boss of the hub. Tap it on very gently.

 

Once it is fully together, the hub can be offered up to the stub axle, packed with LM grease and the inner part of the bearing inserted and the washer and nut put on. The nut should be done up as described by Kev (see above). This is a tapered bearing and so must not be pre-loaded; if the washer behind the nut cannot be displaced sideways on the stub axle with the blade of a screwdriver (without levering it against the hub), it is too tight. Use the new lock cap and split pin supplied with the bearing kit. Tap on the dust cap, and it's done. Shiny new discs and silent running bearings!! You'll be surprised at the difference in the braking with rejuvenated rears - you never know, the handbrake might even work.

 

In answer to the original question, to change the pads you *will* need a special tool to wind the piston back into the caliper on an internal threaded bar. It does not, and will not, simply push in. This is obtainable from Halfords for about £20. Tell them what car it's for because there is a variety of pressure plates dependent on the type of brake caliper piston.

 

Don't be tempted to try turning the piston with a plumbers' wrench or similar - this will damage the piston and probably the dust seal. The caliper will not last long after that as corrosion will be accelerated and it will sieze up even sooner than normal. On that note, be prepared to find that one or both calipers are on their last legs.

 

Good luck.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[buttles 0]

Just done the rear bearings and discs on mine. To add to the gloom, had to adjust the handbrake cable quite a lot to get back to one click. I managed to re-use the ABS cage by gently prising it off and pinching the 'legs' back together with a fine pair of pliers to its original diameter. The caliper carrier bolts are very soft so the heads can be drilled off if you strip the head.( The lower one at least!)

[Supercharged 2]

remember you need the windback tool (halfords etc) for the rear brake calipers...

[swfblade 0]

the windback tool in my halfords says that its not for VW. They only seem to do the 1, so is that one ok?

[Supercharged 2]

the windback tool in my halfords says that its not for VW

 

The Sykes Pickavent one they used to sell actually listed the Corrado on the front of the box - you might find them being sold off still, mine was £12 but the new 'Laser' ones I think are the same but I would check first (the metal bits that lock into the caliper piston should be on the outside of the circular face)

[buttles 0]

The Sykes-pickavant adapter for the VR6 corrado is No. 1 (036105) Which is stamped on the side of it.

[swfblade 0]

Just been halfords to check again. The laser one lists other makes like ford, but not VW, so i take it this wont work? :(

 

If not, i'll just visit me local factors, there bound to have one....

[Supercharged 2]

The laser one lists other makes like ford, but not VW, so i take it this wont work?

 

Not sure - some ford vehicles are listed one mine....

[fla 9]

Can you just use a large G-clamp instead of the caliper wind-back tool?

[buttles 0]

Nope. The piston is on a thread that makes the handbrake work. Needs winding in. Nigh on impossible without the correct tool, and just plain worth the 15-20 quid it costs. :wink:

[Gaz154 0]

i did mine with a G clamp as i tightened the g clamp the piston turned own its own as it went in

[Supercharged 2]

You can try it with a G clamp but you risk damaging the piston face...

 

GSF sell the tools for £15 - I know what i'd do!

[alby 0]

Just been halfords to check again. The laser one lists other makes like ford, but not VW, so i take it this wont work? :(

 

If not, i'll just visit me local factors, there bound to have one....

 

 

i bought one from halfords a couple of weeks back.it didnt list vw on it but it worked perfectly on the calipers on my valver