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DragonAttack

ABS LIGHT AND FAULT CODE

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Hello folks, new dude here.

 

Got ABS issues with my 95 VR6 (the abs light comes on intermittently) and my mech used the vagcom and came back with the rear left outlet valve being jiggered.

 

He's not too sure what this means (I defo ain't sure!) and suspects it is the pump. I already know the scary nature of abs pumps from browsing here in the past and would appreciate some advice.

 

Many thanks in advance folks.

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Um, how? They're integral to the main valve block.

I believe it's possible to overhaul the valve block, but it's a pretty specialised job.

I suspect you're going to need a new ABS pump unit mate... Same thing happened to mine.

I suspect that the left rear outlet is the first one it tests during it's POST, so that's usually the first one that flags an error code when the valve block is buggered.

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Do two things before the valve block as ABS faults can be misleading.

 

Check all the wheel sensor resistances are OK. They should measure 1.2kohm +/- 0.3kohm across the contacts. Connections: Fronts at the wheel hubs, rears under the rear seat squabs.

 

Next pull the connector on the lower edge centre of the valve block and WD40 it and the valve block end.

 

There's a VW bulletin on this.

 

Be aware the valve block is very high pressure, even when off. Pump the brake pedal at least 30 times to exhaust the internal pressures if you intended getting that far with the valvbe block.

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VW will charge you £1200 for a new ABS pump without blinking.

But given that on the whole they are very reliable, and there is oversupply of used ones (because very few people have problems with them), you can pick up 2nd hand ones for not much cash.

Of course, there's no warranty, but if it works for 12 months you've saved a grand...

 

It's also a good idea to try a different ABS ECU if you have the opportunity - as for the pump unit itself, there are plenty available 2nd hand and unlike the pump unit swapping the ABS ECU is a doddle to do yourself, so no spanners required... :)

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VW will charge you £1200 for a new ABS pump without blinking.

 

Aye, bout 1400 NOT inc vat !!!

 

Any good sources for said pumps guys?

 

Also mech said something about ecu+pump needing "coded" at a vag dealer. Is this necessary or can he simply fit the bugger with no need for the messing about?

 

It's also a good idea to try a different ABS ECU if you have the opportunity

 

Why is this and what's the damage for one?

 

Thanks for the info thus far folks. :notworthy:

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Also check for loose power cables at the battery +ive terminal - this gave me tons of abs fault codes and caused the abs light to come on intermittently... has worked fine ever since sorting that connection!

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No ECU / ABS Valve block matching necessary on Corrado VR6.

 

As before, check the sensors and the valve block plug. Fairly rare for the block to go unless you've hit the brakes very hard and locked the wheels despite the ABS.

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I've read on the net that the Teves IV systems *are* actually more prone to failure than would be expected for an ABS block. That said, there should be plenty of 2nd hand ones about that work fine.

And they still won't recondition them, they'll just go "unlucky mate, that's £1400 please"... Crap..!

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just make up some new brake pipes and remove the whole ABS system...

 

Can't fail an MOT if it ain't fitted... ;)

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I bought a 2nd hand one off ebay for £20, got it fitted at Stealth the other month for 2 hrs labour, and so far (touching all the local fibrous vegetable matter I can see) it's been fine...

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