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MNuTz

Building new fixed brake pipes

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Lo all,

 

Well ive finally got a bit of money towards my C. I will be booking it into Midland VW for a full service and check over and to get a few problems sorted but one of the MOT failures was:

 

- N/S front brake pipe bulged

- Rear brake pipes rusted/weak

 

Now at the time i had a couple of replies saying:

 

The flexy hoses are only about a fiver each from GSF and 2 rolls of copper pipe is about another £30.

Leave all the std brakes just replace the pipework. Buy the flaring tool and its a cheap job. Sometimes a bit awkward to get too. I just take them out with a hacksaw. Get yourself some new clip things from dub. The originals will be shagged.

A full set of Goodridge braided hoses will work out similar price to a full set of VAG flexy hoses and will improve the feel of the brakes. Make up the fixed hoses

 

 

So ive been looking around and on the Goodridge site i have a choice of the Zinc plated fitting (£77.55) or the Stainless Steel Fittings (£102.23) for the G60, both with or without TUV Approval (???)

 

Which would you recommend and whats the difference between the 2?

 

Also, can anyone suggest anywhere i can get them cheaper?

 

As for the fixed lines i was wondering how big a job this is? As someone who hasnt the greatest amount of practical experience would i be able to do this?

 

What diameter copper pipe should i be looking at getting? what other tools will i need other than the flaring tool? What do you do about connecting the ends of the copper pipes to what they connect too? Anyone got a part number for the clips that hold the pipes in or are they just standard clips?

 

Thanks to anyone that can answer any of the many questions asked above! hopefully if this works out i should be taking a few photos and writing a little guide incase anyone else needs to do this!

 

EDIT: Anyone know of a group-buy going on for the goodridge hoses?

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I don't think it's a good idea to go near braking hydraulics unless you know what you're doing. I appreciate that it's probably not *hard* (just like plumbing, really), but it's kinda more critical. You don't risk dying if your taps leak after you fit them...

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As dr_mat says, don't do brake lines unless you really know what you're doing. The ones available from ECP are cr*p as they're alloy and will kink as soon as you start trying to fit them. Copper is the way to go, but get it done by a professional.

 

Goodridge hoses are £53.95 inc VAT from http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk - they're the zinc ones, but unless you are building a show car, who's going to see them anyway?

 

FWIW, I've had set on my Golf for 7 years & they still look like new...

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Zinc goodridge hoses? I wasn't even aware there were other types. What's the differences and pros/cons?

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Well ive just spoken to my uncle that's just SVA'd his R1 powered kit car.

 

He bought the copper pipes cut to length as part of the kit but says that its relatively easy to do as long as you dont put a kink in the pipes. I think i may have a go, im not stupid and ill either have the work checked out before i put it to proper use or ill take it to the nearest airfield!!

 

So, does anyone know what clips i need to hold the brake lines on, what size pipe is best and any decent techniques for preparing the car first!

 

Been told 8mm copper pipe should do the job, about right??

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I'm not sure on the brake pipe diameter, but 8mm sounds a little on the large side... :|

 

I did the brake pipes at my mates garage on J-DUB when I first got her (while re-doing the rear axle bushes). It's not difficult to do, you just have to make sure that you use a GOOD pipe flaring tool (the £20 DRAPER ones are utter crap, you need one that clamps into a vice and has a good length handle on it to pull the flare in properly...) you also need a decent pipe cutter, DO NOT USE A HACKSAW! The ends of the pipe MUST be square else the flare won't be uniform and may give up or leak under stress meaning that your brakes will fail... :|

 

Does your car have ABS? If it does, you need to be VERY careful that you don't run the car out of brake fluid else you'll have shed loads of trouble bleeding the ABS pump afterwards...

 

To actually make up the brake pipes, you need to be able to get under the car with the coil of pipe that you've bought and try to copy the shape of the pipe completely before you cut it and then add the ends and flare the tips...

 

Pipe ends and coils of copper brake pipe can be bought from good local car spares places or motor factors for not a lot of cash at all... 8)

 

Seriously, if you have ANY doubts about this, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT... the results of getting it wrong just aren't worth it... :|

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Vince dropped my rear axle, changed all the brake lines to copper and fitted a new exhaust inside 3 hours. It's one of those sort of tasks that if you've got all the tools to hand and a ramp, it cuts the job time considerably.

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If you haven't got access to a ramp or pit, I suggest that you don't attempt this job... It's an utter git to do with the car only on Axle stands...

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Kev, how much did he charge for it and what exhaust did you have fitted and what did that set you back?

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Dunno, can't remember. It was part of other work done at the same time, but 3 hours labour £120 + copper tube at a few quid a metre, about £150 I suppose.

 

Exhaust was standard VAG. The axle has to come down to fit it on the VR as it's one peice.

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ive just done most of my brake pipes, my other car has zinc goodrigges and the ends do rust , so stainless would be nice if you have the ££££

 

as for the pipes, ive never made them before..after a few tries its pretty easy to make them and the pipe is cheap enough to have a few practices

 

i paid £25 for flaring tool with cutter

£8 per roll of 3/16 copper pipe

50p per end

 

its all fairly simple to do, although it can be time consuming laying on your drive...id suggest you do it one weekend when you wont need the car

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