lightfoot1974 0 Posted June 15, 2005 I just put koni ta's and H+R springs on my corrado, can anyone tell me the best settings for the shocks or is it just personal taste? Will they rub on the softest setting ( I have 17"s on at the moment). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted June 15, 2005 Run the Koni's on the slackess setting for the first 1,000 miles until they have bedded in. Not doing so shortens their useful life. Then adjust front and back in pairs to personal taste. Always keep the fronts or backs as a pair identical setting. Can't comment on the rubbing as wheel offset, tyre make, etc. are so variable. You'll just have to take it easy in the first 1,000 miles while on the slackess setting but upping it afterwards to stop bottoming won't be the solution if they are rubbing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lightfoot1974 0 Posted June 16, 2005 thanks, I will do that. Now the shocks / springs are on I can see there is no chance of the wheels rubbing out. Feels so much better to drive now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 16, 2005 Run the Koni's on the slackess setting for the first 1,000 miles until they have bedded in. Not doing so shortens their useful life. That's the first time I've heard that and I've been using Koni yellows since 1998. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted June 16, 2005 Run the Koni's on the slackess setting for the first 1,000 miles until they have bedded in. Not doing so shortens their useful life. That's the first time I've heard that and I've been using Koni yellows since 1998. Ahh, but how many pairs have you killed Kev? ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted June 16, 2005 That's the first time I've heard that and I've been using Koni yellows since 1998. Can't lay my fingers on the file at the moment but it's like an engine or brakes, work them hard initially and you won't get the life out of them. 1998 - a mere tick in time. 1978 and several cars fitted. Current run around has done 130,000 miles and they haven't needed adjustment after the initial period. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe M 0 Posted June 16, 2005 So going to a trackday 4 days after fitting my coilovers wasnt a good idea. :twisted: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted June 16, 2005 Depends how long you want them to last. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billinjah 0 Posted June 17, 2005 hmm not saying it isnt true but first ive heard of bedding shocks in slowly on motor bikes and mountainbikes you are encouraged to do it hard! (and certain other places) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2cc 0 Posted June 17, 2005 Interesting point that. So why don't Koni put that bit of gen on the box? Can't be so they can sell you a new pair as they are warrented for life (however long that is) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz2004 0 Posted June 17, 2005 I just put koni ta's and H+R springs on my corrado, Nice setup, I’ve heard of lads dropping 60mm with 17s Im not sure if its a good idea for everyday driving I suppose it depends on the number of speed ramps you have to face on a daily basis. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 17, 2005 It's pants... 'Bedding in' a shock implies poor manufacturing tolerances and 'bedding' also implies metal on metal contact and therefore swarf. Who wants swarf in their koni damper oil blocking the bias valve holes? Besides, they're guaranteed for life to the original owner so does it matter how long they last? Stealth fitted all my Konis (and replaced quite a few dodgy ones) and they've never said to bed them in for 1000 miles.....and I think a tuner of their calibre would know about such things.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted June 17, 2005 i dont know why,but i thought all you had to do before fitting was to, compress the piston once fully,just to lube the piston and create a seal? neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 17, 2005 The koni 'manual' (a bit of A5 paper in the box) says to use the adjusters to compensate for wear and that the initial damping (softest) is valved to the particular application.....well, sorry but Koni that's manure.... we all know exactly what the adjusters are for. They're just putting that in as a 'clause' in case they wear out too quickly.....so RW1 is correct in that they do wear out, but not because they weren't 'run-in'...... As 2CC said, if the 1000 mile thing is so critical, then it should be in bold in the manual, sorry, A5 bit of paper....and it isn't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daves16v 1 Posted June 17, 2005 As 2CC said, if the 1000 mile thing is so critical, then it should be in bold in the manual, sorry, A5 bit of paper....and it isn't. Totally agree, it never mentioned it on my instructions either. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted June 17, 2005 so RW1 is correct in that they do wear out, but not because they weren't 'run-in'...... As 2CC said, if the 1000 mile thing is so critical, then it should be in bold in the manual, sorry, A5 bit of paper....and it isn't. The 1,000 is arbitory like running in an engine. Agree about the paper in the box and what's written doesn't specify. Checked all my old instructions. It puzzled me at the time as I use to fit internally adjustable ones and I set them at new to the required setting but at the time of my first TA's , that's when I when I came across the "running in" period. I'll have to have a good look round for the info as I won't have thrown it away. As side point, the internally adjustable ones always needed a 1/2 turn firmer to bring them back to the desired setting after about 5,000 miles. Very frustrating as taking the suspension apart is not the most fun job. TA's haven't but them I haven't run any of them from initial fit without the initial "soft" period. At the end of the day, it's a choice of options isn't it. But one caution with Koni's, never set them full firm from the start (as per instruction sheet) or up the top end towards firm in the early mileage. It can result in the seals failing and oil blowing out of the top adjustment point of the shaft and the shock locking up very, very stiff. Not an unknown problem with Koni's. The leaflet do advise oil may come out of the top of the shaft but the above isn't the same. Their instructions are referring to the seals bedding in with this weepage. Warrenty covers it but it's the hassle and I don't know if they compensate these days for your garage labour costs. The UK concession (Banks?) until they ceased trading in the mid 90's didn't pay, just gave you replacement shocks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 24, 2005 I always set mine to 1.5 at the front and half at the rear....2 turns plus is silly hard!! I tend to select a bunch of different settings over a period of time which keeps the bias valves working nicely.... the great thing about the TAs is you can compensate for the ambient temperature changing the shure rating of the chassis bushes and also the fluid viscosity in the damper....I always go up half a turn in the summer and back down again over winter.... I love em! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
