The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[Philmo 0]

Nice bottle of Aberfeldy there!

It was - about 30 years ago! :lol:

The boxes are brill - one for files, one for chisels, scrapers etc...

[VR6Joni 0]

Hi Jon - is this arrangement anyuse to you?

It uses short radius 80mm silicon available from an outfit in Cleckheaton.

This fits without any mods, save a little enlargement where the carbon cannister used to pass through the inner wing flange.

 

Possibly, where does the filter actually end up with that setup then?

I can't picture where it will end up.

 

All the silicone, MAF and filter are below the inner wing flange, behind the OSF bumper and above the splash guard. The bellmouth on the alloy bend mates with the suction inlet of the V9.

V difficult to see unless you're underneath - if you're in Royston anytime you're welcome to have a butchers - she lives over the pit most of the time.

 

I may well take you up on that offer, it may well save me lots of time trying different set up's. I'll drop you a pm some time in the not too distant future to see when your free.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Why 4" MAF's were ever used I don't know :cuckoo:

 

Using a 4" housing tricks the ECU into thinking there is less air going into the engine and therefore it automatically reduces the injector PW accordingly, which if you use 440cc injectors, puts the fuelling reasonably close to where it should be.

 

I tried it on my OBD2 setup. Stock chip with 4" housing and Bosch greens (@ 3 bar) held 14.7 AFR with ~12% lambda trimming. It drove very well actually, but I certainly wouldn't recommend it as a long term solution!

 

Stealth's Turbo conversion still uses the stock 3" MAF by the way. I believe you can tell the ECU not to throw it's toys out if it sees 5V from the MAF signal when it's not expecting to see it.

[Vince@Stealth 0]

 

 

Stealth's Turbo conversion still uses the stock 3" MAF by the way. I believe you can tell the ECU not to throw it's toys out if it sees 5V from the MAF signal when it's not expecting to see it.

 

Slight Correction

 

If you have older Corrado / Golf with hotwire MAF then stage 1 360bhp kits will retain this.

For stage 2 kits I'm working on a new MAF.

 

For Later Corrado / Golfs OBD1 and OBD2 with Hotfilm MAF's you will automatically get a free upgrade to 4" MAF Tube, this MAF tube will also be suitable for stage 2.

[hendrikbmx 0]

i want to get say 400 + bhp SAFE on a daily driver.

i want to know everything i should change.

what should i do the engine?

all new gaskets , chains, ARP bolts all around? rods?

 

cooling system: Samco Silicone hose set , billet crackpipe

 

drivetrain: LSD , stronger axles, flywheel, clutch

 

anything else?

[poll250 0]

Quick question: Is a 9:1 Head spacer ok or will I need a 8.5:1 with the Rotrex?

 

Seen a C2 9:1 spacer cheap but need to check it will be ok!

 

Thanks,

Andy

[Kevin Bacon 5]

 

 

Stealth's Turbo conversion still uses the stock 3" MAF by the way. I believe you can tell the ECU not to throw it's toys out if it sees 5V from the MAF signal when it's not expecting to see it.

 

Slight Correction

 

If you have older Corrado / Golf with hotwire MAF then stage 1 360bhp kits will retain this.

For stage 2 kits I'm working on a new MAF.

 

For Later Corrado / Golfs OBD1 and OBD2 with Hotfilm MAF's you will automatically get a free upgrade to 4" MAF Tube, this MAF tube will also be suitable for stage 2.

 

Cheers Vince. I was hoping you'd chime in :salute:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Quick question: Is a 9:1 Head spacer ok or will I need a 8.5:1 with the Rotrex?

 

Seen a C2 9:1 spacer cheap but need to check it will be ok!

 

Thanks,

Andy

 

I would go 8.5:1 personally and give the knock sensors less work to do, but it depends on how good your intercooler is and what boost you run.

[chazrad 0]

Quick question: Is a 9:1 Head spacer ok or will I need a 8.5:1 with the Rotrex?

 

Seen a C2 9:1 spacer cheap but need to check it will be ok!

 

Thanks,

Andy

 

I would go 8.5:1 personally and give the knock sensors less work to do, but it depends on how good your intercooler is and what boost you run.

 

 

Completely agree with this. 8.5:1 is going to be safer. I think I've still got my Dubpower one upstairs in the spare room, having not needed it in the end.

[poll250 0]

Completely agree with this. 8.5:1 is going to be safer. I think I've still got my Dubpower one upstairs in the spare room, having not needed it in the end.

 

:)

 

Fancy that! Let me know if you manage to dig it out; I'm sure we could come to some arrangement!

 

8.5:1 it is then!

 

Thanks guys!

Andy

[VR6Joni 0]

Why 4" MAF's were ever used I don't know :cuckoo:

 

Using a 4" housing tricks the ECU into thinking there is less air going into the engine and therefore it automatically reduces the injector PW accordingly, which if you use 440cc injectors, puts the fuelling reasonably close to where it should be.

 

I tried it on my OBD2 setup. Stock chip with 4" housing and Bosch greens (@ 3 bar) held 14.7 AFR with ~12% lambda trimming. It drove very well actually, but I certainly wouldn't recommend it as a long term solution!

 

Stealth's Turbo conversion still uses the stock 3" MAF by the way. I believe you can tell the ECU not to throw it's toys out if it sees 5V from the MAF signal when it's not expecting to see it.

 

Should have really phrased that better!

Instead of reducing the air flow over the MAF to reduce maximum output, (I.e. making the CSA of air flow over the MAF larger) why not simply reduce the signal from it by a similar ratio. The MAF is 12V powered and will give an output close to this level, the ECU will only read signals up to 5V so you have masses of room to play with. This in my mind has to be significantly cheaper than using a 4" MAF and will give exactly the same result. And much less effort required with pipe work reducers etc.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Do what ever works for your application :D

 

Personally I prefer the bigger housing approach. OEs do it, for example, the lower powered 1.8T's use a 2.5" MAF housing and the more powerful ones use a 3" one, so I don't see a problem with doing that in the aftermarket too. I try and copy what OEs do with their more powerful cars because they will have already gone through the head scratching for us and found the best way to do it, which is also reliable.

 

As you say though, the physical size of a 4" housing can be a problem in already the cramped VR6 engine bay.

[lilfuzzer 1]

Hi all anybody know the part number for the mk4 head gasket because I have a metal spacer so need the two layers as describes by Kev earlier in this thread. I went to vw today and thy said they couldnt help without either the part number or chassis number for the car :(

 

thanks in advance

[chazrad 0]

As I recall, Buddy, its the gasket from a Sharan VR6, which is a 3 piece jobby. You simply pull it apart and ditch the sandwiched bit in the middle. The part number I have is: 021 103 383N.

I hope that's right.

Charlie

[lilfuzzer 1]

As I recall, Buddy, its the gasket from a Sharan VR6, which is a 3 piece jobby. You simply pull it apart and ditch the sandwiched bit in the middle. The part number I have is: 021 103 383N.

I hope that's right.

Charlie

 

 

NIce one cheers bud your a good un :clap:

[poll250 0]

Gone quiet in here lately, so thought I better revive it!

 

Well, my Rotrex is ordered! Went for C30-84 in the end and will get a couple of pulley sizes to be safe coming mapping time.

 

Now it's just time to start ordering all the bits Currently got 8.5:1 spacer on it's way and waiting on some 440cc injectors I've got in the pipeline. Will pick up ARP head and Rod bolts, 262 cams and HD lifters when I'm in the states next month so everything should be ready to roll come April :D:D

 

Also just secured the use of my mates lockup to build the engine and do the whole conversion in so everythings looking rather peachy at the moment!

 

Andy.

[lilfuzzer 1]

Gone quiet in here lately, so thought I better revive it!

 

Well, my Rotrex is ordered! Went for C30-84 in the end and will get a couple of pulley sizes to be safe coming mapping time.

 

Now it's just time to start ordering all the bits Currently got 8.5:1 spacer on it's way and waiting on some 440cc injectors I've got in the pipeline. Will pick up ARP head and Rod bolts, 262 cams and HD lifters when I'm in the states next month so everything should be ready to roll come April :D:D

 

Also just secured the use of my mates lockup to build the engine and do the whole conversion in so everythings looking rather peachy at the moment!

 

Andy.

 

where did you get 440 injectors from and how much as want some in the future for the turbo progression?

 

cheers

[bananawhip 0]

Does anyone know how to tell the difference between the mark 1 and mark 2 Vortech V-9?

 

I was under the impression one is better then the other for various reasons?

[VR6Joni 0]

Does anyone know how to tell the difference between the mark 1 and mark 2 Vortech V-9?

 

I was under the impression one is better then the other for various reasons?

 

On the early V1's the compressor wheel blades were straight so could run clockwise or anti clockwise, later they changed to curved one directional compressor wheels which were more efficient for obvious reasons.

Might be something completely different for the V9's though!

Also seem to recall gear cut changing at some point too.

[bananawhip 0]

On the early V1's the compressor wheel blades were straight so could run clockwise or anti clockwise, later they changed to curved one directional compressor wheels which were more efficient for obvious reasons.

Might be something completely different for the V9's though!

Also seem to recall gear cut changing at some point too.

 

Would I be correct then in thinking this is a later version?...

charger.jpg[/attachment:rq9maoa3]

[VR6Joni 0]

I would love to confidently say yes, but I'm afraid that I just don't really know. Going by the V1's I've seen it quite possibly is the later version, but then again it was the really early V1's that had straight blades at which point the V9 may not have even been on the market.

Anyone else clued up on Vortechs?

[Philmo 0]

I understood from Vince that the later [Mk2?] V9's had an uprated gearbox capable of St2 and upwards applications.

[bananawhip 0]

That all makes sense, mines a 2006 stage 2 set-up so I'm guessing it's got to be the second version

 

One more question, If I want to sound like a chav (which I do if I'm honest) can a swop my VF recirculating valve for a Forge splitter?

 

Fancy the dump sound as I'm new to all this, no doubt I'll get bored of it :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Forge splitter as in partial dump to atmospher and partial recirc?

 

That was designed for MAF use, so should work

 

A full dump to atmosphere will make the fuelling go VERY rich on gear changes.

[bananawhip 0]

Forge splitter as in partial dump to atmospher and partial recirc?

 

That was designed for MAF use, so should work

 

A full dump to atmosphere will make the fuelling go VERY rich on gear changes.

 

That's the one, It's designed to replace a recirc valve and still stay within maf parimeters, basically lets out just enough air to make a dumping sound, bit :camp: I know but it's a bit of fun

 

On the plus side it has a winding mech on the top to adjust spring rate rather then having to buy a pack of springs to get the same result