The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[Mk3highline 10]

Sorry they need to start with BKR the number after is the heat range and the last bit is the metal on the tip it's been a long time and best to double check

 

Something like

Like bkr7eku best to go to a parts shop and compare threads etc with an old plug just to double check but from past experience they should be same fitments

Edited June 3, 2015 by Mk3highline

[EJ Taylor 22]

Just drop em in mate, no need to gap. It's only the yanks who get all hung up on gapping because they run too much boost and too much fuel. Euro / UK tuners have never had issues with plug gaps and boosted VRs!

 

These worked REALLY well in my VRT, heat grade 7 - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/vpower.asp?mode=nml

 

They're cheap (from America) as well as they're copper core iirc, so don't last long, about 7K miles. Engine loved them though. Just seemed to start quicker and run smoother with them.

 

If you can't get hold of them, try the Bosch F5DPOR (I think that's the no) which are Audi S2 plugs. Not cheap, but last!

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-NEW-NGK-Replacement-SPARK-PLUGS-Part-No-BKR7E-Stock-No-6097-6pk-sparkplugs-/230847958113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35bf9c4c61

 

these?

[Mk3highline 10]

If I was you I'd ask the seller the question as the last letters (ku) are missing and I'm not sure

Best bet is try a parts shop and physically compare them as there might be difference in the resistor thing inside too

Sorry I'm not much more help than this

[Kevin Bacon 5]

For decoding spark plugs, have a read of this - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

 

Those ebay BKR7Es will work fine in the VR6, but you may not need to go as cold as a 7 with a low boost charger. The colder the plug, the more likely you will get starting and carbon fouling problems.

 

The reason plugs are heat ranged is stop the tips from glowing red, which can cause detonation, but it's more of a problem with turbo engines because of all the exhaust reversion backing up in the combustion chambers.

 

I reckon a 6 is probably good, I would just go with the 1.8T plugs as originally suggested. Readily available and proven to work well in all boosted VRs.

[EJ Taylor 22]

For decoding spark plugs, have a read of this - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

 

Those ebay BKR7Es will work fine in the VR6, but you may not need to go as cold as a 7 with a low boost charger. The colder the plug, the more likely you will get starting and carbon fouling problems.

 

The reason plugs are heat ranged is stop the tips from glowing red, which can cause detonation, but it's more of a problem with turbo engines because of all the exhaust reversion backing up in the combustion chambers.

 

I reckon a 6 is probably good, I would just go with the 1.8T plugs as originally suggested. Readily available and proven to work well in all boosted VRs.

 

dont suppose you know the part number do you mate? i just dont want to get the wrong ones. thanks for all the help regardless! learnt a lot!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dunno mate. I just got them from the dealer, for a MK4 1.8T GTI. Can't go wrong!

[dubbrothers 10]

Hi has anyone any experience with rotrex charger on a corrado vr6 ie fitting one?

[culshaw 1]

Hi has anyone any experience with rotrex charger on a corrado vr6 ie fitting one?

I'm going to be test fitting one quite soon, we should knock heads if you're about to do the same thing?

[dubbrothers 10]

Yes I am.. thats a good idea. Is yours a new or used kit? exhaust to match?

[dubbrothers 10]

Hi what is your target psi and are you going to run a head spacer?

[culshaw 1]

Mines a used kit, miltek cat back, recently put the cat back on for mot. 6 branch is a maybe, hoping I can get away in the beginning without a head spacer. Hoping for 8psi with an 80mm pulley

[dubbrothers 10]

Sounds good intercooler or do you have tye little water/oil cooler?

[culshaw 1]

Ive got an oil cooler this but considering: slim fans, fmic and mocal for engine oil

[fla 9]

In terms of uprating the gearbox internals with a turbo, are there any sensible swops? Im thinking along the lines of one from a diesel, or maybe a 6 speed from an r32? Or would the r32 one be difficult/costly to adapt?

[fla 9]

Also would 288 brakes be too small? Assuming a max power of around 300 horses.

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

In terms of uprating the gearbox internals with a turbo, are there any sensible swops? Im thinking along the lines of one from a diesel, or maybe a 6 speed from an r32? Or would the r32 one be difficult/costly to adapt?

 

hi m8

 

drop vag-hag a PM - im sure he has upgraded his gb internals to cope with his VRT output

 

my VR is NA, slightly modded to 210 horses - i put HiSpec 4 pots on mine rather than 288's as once you allow for the 288's to be refurb'd etc the cost was fairly close

[VAG-hag 0]

hi m8

 

drop vag-hag a PM - im sure he has upgraded his gb internals to cope with his VRT output

 

my VR is NA, slightly modded to 210 horses - i put HiSpec 4 pots on mine rather than 288's as once you allow for the 288's to be refurb'd etc the cost was fairly close

 

 

I’m not much use regarding spec of my gb. Jon Malik said it was strong so I bought it! :lol:

[VEEDUBBED 0]

02j's have their weaknesses, plastic bearing cages opposed to 02a's metal versions, weaker syncro rings, diesel gear cogs have finer pitched teeth than the 02a versions, dubious cast metal output shaft bearing carrier opposed to the older pressed metal one fitted to the 02a.. I've opened and shut loads of both type of 'boxs and in some ways it seems that Vw was going backwards instead of forwards with the 02j.

On my turbo 16v 'box I fitted a Peloquin LSD, old version bearing carrier, metal pinion brace, inner bearing that supports the output shaft has a metal cage and I used the older style 02a syncro hubs and rings.

02m's are weak in certain area too, plus a load of work to fit too compared.

The last mod I'd like to do is use the grease plates that effectively seal the inner driveshaft CV joint's horrid, black grease within the cup so when you remove the shaft, you don't risk getting the bloody stuff all over the place, these clip on covers were used on the 02m driveshafts that are 100mm, opposed to the smaller 02a joints.

Fit a reinforced clutch operating fork, along with a decent updated clutch too.

Edited December 15, 2017 by VEEDUBBED

[culshaw 1]

I'm trying to test fit my rotrex bracket but am worried it's fouling the fuel rail and alternator pulley on idler pulley (but I think I can move that)

 

Am I being overly cautious?

 

[fla 9]

keep coming back to looking at a Rotrex for some reason.  It think it seems at though you dont need to do too many extensive engine mods as with a VRT 

 

Anyway my questions are these:

• Other than the supercharger, belt, adapter plate and pulley what else would be required
• Injectors?  If so which ones?
• uprated head bolts or any other bolts?
• Can the aircon  condenser still be used at the front?
• Is an intercooler required?
• Any other mods or adjustments, machining etc required?

 

Mine is an OBD2 with a schrick

 

Thanks

[seanl82 23]

16 minutes ago, fla said:

keep coming back to looking at a Rotrex for some reason.  It think it seems at though you dont need to do too many extensive engine mods as with a VRT 

 

Anyway my questions are these:

• Other than the supercharger, belt, adapter plate and pulley what else would be required
• Injectors?  If so which ones?
• uprated head bolts or any other bolts?
• Can the aircon  condenser still be used at the front?
• Is an intercooler required?
• Any other mods or adjustments, machining etc required?

 

Mine is an OBD2 with a schrick

 

Thanks

Oil supply or return hose and tap the sump I believe, and obviously a remap or standalone ECU. Charge cooler and associated pipework/mocal oil cooler. I'm not certain all of these are required if low boost, but something to think about. If a charge cooler is required, I don't think you'll be able to retain the A/C

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You can retain the A/C if you fit a water-air intercooler similar to the one I used, but if that is too much extra baggage and cost for you, have a word with Vince at Stealth and ask if his turbo kit air-air intercooler fits in front of the A/C condenser.

An intercooler will give you more consistency, but it's not essential if only running 6-8psi.  Water meth is usually used where an intercooler isn't feasible (some folk don't like chopping bumpers etc).

Injectors - around 440cc.

Uprated headbolts - Definitely. ARP.  Uprated rod bolts not a bad idea either.

If running more than 8psi, a head spacer isn't a bad idea either.

I would have a chat with Vince.  Back in the day, I seem to remember him saying the Rotrex power delivery wasn't especially nice on a VR6.  They make the peak numbers OK but it dumps all of it's boost in in one lump, hence the not particularly nice driving experience.  Turbos are way smoother and punchier on a VR6.  I think Stealth's drive in, drive out price was £9K.......some years ago!   Can probably rotrex it for half that but you really should drive an example of each before committing yourself.  I just know you will prefer the turbo's power delivery 😁  Everyone does!  Hence why so many ex-supercharged people went turbo 😉

 

[fla 9]

...and just when i'd almost decided on a supercharger because of the simplicity.  Good call on trying them both out.  Not sure if theres anyone nearby to NW London with a boosted VR?  What about maintenance and issues relate to that? One of my concersn was that the turbo with the extra power would have a lot more reliability issues, whereas the supercharger was better in that regard.

 

Yes, i'm a bit uncomfortable with hacking anything on the car that is hard to reverse - in fact even down to screwing things into trims etc!

[culshaw 1]

On 7/19/2020 at 1:35 PM, fla said:

...and just when i'd almost decided on a supercharger because of the simplicity.  Good call on trying them both out.  Not sure if theres anyone nearby to NW London with a boosted VR?  What about maintenance and issues relate to that? One of my concersn was that the turbo with the extra power would have a lot more reliability issues, whereas the supercharger was better in that regard.

 

Yes, i'm a bit uncomfortable with hacking anything on the car that is hard to reverse - in fact even down to screwing things into trims etc!

Sorry I didn't see this before. I've done all the research and am in the middle of fitting a rotrex myself.

The exact reason I chose rotrex was because there's no hacking. You don't need to tap the oil sump it has it's own rad with plumbing so is literally plug in.

They say the bottom end can handle the boost so I'm not too worried about that, but it will make any current problems with your head and their associated bolts, and gaskets very obvious that there's problems around.

Narrator: Culshaws engine is going to pop.

[fla 9]

1 hour ago, culshaw said:

Sorry I didn't see this before. I've done all the research and am in the middle of fitting a rotrex myself.

The exact reason I chose rotrex was because there's no hacking. You don't need to tap the oil sump it has it's own rad with plumbing so is literally plug in.

They say the bottom end can handle the boost so I'm not too worried about that, but it will make any current problems with your head and their associated bolts, and gaskets very obvious that there's problems around.

Narrator: Culshaws engine is going to pop.

You'll be fine!  Anyway, certainly interested in how you get on.  Like you say the bottom end can handle it and unless you're looking at 300+ hp it seems that the top end mods are head bolts and injectors.

 

I think there's some info on Vortex and Rotrex certainly seem to have ironed out some of the torque issues with superchargers eg vortech and others.

 

Hasan

Edited January 18, 2021 by fla