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Kevin Bacon

The Forced Induction VR6 thread

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I've heard of people running 18-20psi with the standard plastic inlet. We've discussed before about reinforcing it with carbon fibre or something, but not sure how expensive and doable that is?

 

This is a nice SRI for 24Vs, with balanced runners, but as Mic says, space is real tight in a Corrado so it's unlikely to fit - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/intake-manifold-t ... 0394033144

 

Jon at Stealth used that one in his Bora 3.3 turbo and the quality was excellent. I think it's a HGP clone.

 

Mic, the 7076 with T3 housing is $1900, about £1200.

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Yeah that SRI looks pretty nice, but I think you'd struggle for space. Maybe if the inlet was at the other end, further away from the Rad you could make it fit... or without the plastic manifold you might be able to tip the engine back a little.

 

That price is a bargain for the 7076, I'd definitely be happy with that. I'll send my mate an email to see if he's ok with it and maybe get them ordered next month?

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I've got a 2.8 one you can mess around with if you like. It's mainly the plenum that's weak, just behind the throttle. If you blip the throttle open with the bonnet up, you can see the change in manifold pressure clearly distorting the plenum! And that's with no boost!

 

But I've seen pics on the Vortex of the runners themselves split open from only 12psi of boost, but you never know with forums. The guy concerned may have over boosted his motor and not been honest about it.

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based on how much my inlet used to flex just under the standard N/A induction, i wouldn't even consider keeping the plastic manifold when running FI.

 

ask Tom if you want some clarification (i'm sure he'll remember); the standard manifold flexes massively just when going on/coming off the throttle as the pressures change inside it. running it with forced induction would blow it up like a balloon!

i'm sure it would probably be fine for a little while, but the mechanics at my local vw dealers said they have seen loads of them break (and i can belive it, as mine was broken in transit when i bought the engine) just under normal everyday use.

 

Kev - you're of the mindset "do it once; do it right" - DON'T USE THE PLASTIC MANIFOLD WITH F/I, END OF!!!

 

while i think about it - i'm talking about the r32 manifold and i'm not sure how much they vary between the r32 and 24v items...

thatsaid, surely you'd be best of using the r32 head if you can get it when running F/I seeing as it's been fettled by the cosworth boys with bigger ports, better injector positioning etc.

 

regardless - i'm surprised you boys are even considering using plastic manifolds with your installs

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just seen your pic Mic - fanny-mold looks pretty much identical to the one on my r32 (but i could be wrong).

 

surprised you've painted it black - not worried about heat-sink and your inlet temps?...

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I didn't paint it, came like that I'm afraid. Plus it wasn't meant to be on there long!

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Kev - you're of the mindset "do it once; do it right" - DON'T USE THE PLASTIC MANIFOLD WITH F/I, END OF!!!

 

Indeed I am sir and thanks for the kick up the bum to remind me :D

 

I suppose this is why I'm dragging my heels with the 24V T tbh. I don't want to be bodging anything, it's gotta be right the first time!

 

Mic, been told the 8374 is probably a better size Borg Warner for the VR6. The 7670 appears to be GT30 sized. It would work, but I think with the titanium and billet wheels (half the weight of the inconel / cast ally wheels in the Garretts), the spool up will be too quick and gears will get stripped. The 8374 is $2049

 

It's early days though. No one has run one of these on a VR6 yet!

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We'll be trend setters then. If Bill say go bigger I'm sure he's right, plus it works out as only £100. Still cheaper than buying the whole lot separately.

 

The more I look at the pics of my install and that SRI you posted the more I think it'll fit. You'd have to use some kind of elbow piece to face the TB away from the rad but it might work.....

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We could do a custom slam panel you know, Mic? It's been on my mind for a while.

 

Shove the stock panel in the loft for prosperity, seeing as it's a £500 part, then just make up a new arrangement out of box section / ally tube etc. It's not a structural / load bearing part of the car, so you don't have to go mad. It would allow a better choice of radiator / intercooler arrangements and obviously space for SRIs etc :D

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Well it's definitely a nice idea, bit of weight saving as well. Wonder how hard/expensive it would be to make sure everything is in the right place. ie. Headlight aim, bonnet catches etc.

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^^^exactly^^^ what i was thinking - do that just for the top part then get busy with the box section!

 

also if you speak nicely to allisport (near gloucester), they'll pretty much make anything for you and their reputation and quality is second to none

plus i could even pick it/them up for you and drop them off the next time i'm at DG! ;)

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9:1 is perfectly doable with modern fuels like V power, but 8.5:1 will allow more boost before detonation occurs. As you're going for rods, that kind of suggests you're looking to turn the wick up?

 

As you've got the 3.68 final drive (more accelerative off boost), you won't feel any benefit of 9:1 over 8.5:1

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Im not really looking at more boost but it would be good to go forged internals for longevity / reliability. Peace of mind and all that.

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Good to know. I wont be fitting them for a while, Im just going to wait and see if any deals come up on pistons. If I do sell the car before that I can always sell them on.

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Well Ive taken a chance on them. No markings on them, the guy took them off a VR6 NA motor build but they do look identical to the ones from Schimmel. The motor he was helping on, the guy had apparently bought some R32 pistons and had the block bored ot to suit without consulting anyone. Needless to say this didnt work.

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Aaaaargh, cant decide what car to get next, TT with GT30 etc etc, or golf v6 4motion with GT30/GT35.

 

what you lot reckon??

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