Riley 0 Posted April 2, 2008 Im wondering what i can give someone (i have no money) if they can just come and fix it :( Maybe take the feckin car? :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iow_corrado_g60 0 Posted April 3, 2008 I remeber when aides car had this problem and it does seem so similar mate you should try and buy/borrow some red tops! did you say you;d tried the bigger FPR? sorry for cluttering up the thread good luck mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Hey no worries man! :D Not tried red tops...One, because there are sh|t loads of g60's running this basic spec with no probs, and two, the problem just appeared from nowhere after parking up. :( Also...Im unsure that its fuel related, anyone agree with the below? Surely, the wot switch supplying more fuel couldn't be so precise that once held closed, it runs absolutely perfect? On the other hand, the wot switch being closed, and changing something electrically, could explain the precision between running perfect and running crap? Hope thats come out how i thought it... Basically...The wot switch either makes it run very good (held closed) or absolute crap, not held closed. So its more of a leccy switch from running good to crap? If it was fueling, would it not be less precise, like with the wot switch held, maybe run better but still pop now and again or badly overfuel? I dunno :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted April 3, 2008 not sure if you have already checked it but i just had a look at your vids and mine was doing exactly the same last year, it was fine on tickover but as soon as you tried to give it any throttle it would just stutter and backfire into the inlet, on mine it was caused by the closed throttle microswitch being stuck shut (carbon build up), i took it apart and cleaned it all up and it has been fine since. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Aye, ive tried various new switches/tested them/and even tried different throttle body's :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted April 3, 2008 again, not much help mate, but if you could get it down to me i would happily get stuck into it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Cheers mate, really appreciate the offer...just a shame you are so far away :( Would cost me a bit to get there, and i can't really afford to put petrol in the daily motor at the mo... We need a bloody g60 specialist elsewhere in the country instead of just the one down south :? :( Took a pic of plug no.1 earlier...bare in mind its been running for a good while with the wot switch held closed, looks like its been running hot to me? and obviously a bit rich. Oh i dunno... Just uploading a video of the lambda reading while running too. Oh and ive set the ign timing at 8deg btdc instead of 6 to see if that helps, but had to leave the car. Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 3, 2008 The vid showing lambda voltage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 4, 2008 Ive got some g60 rear calipers with braided lines that someone can have if they fix it? Its not a lot i know but im struggling a bit :oops: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 4, 2008 Ive just noticed a differnce in the above video to this one> http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=abpd39YRJOk In the one in above post, when im blipping throttle the lambda voltage fluctuates but it dropsdown into low numbers... Where as in the video in this post, with a cold bts it stays in the high numbers. I don't know if this is an obvious thing to happen, or if it tells me sommet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted April 4, 2008 the lambda takes a while to warm up, thats why the ecu ignores it for a few minutes from cold. Also with WOT pressed i think the ecu uses a seperate map which ignores the lambda. I wonder if you used a resistor instead of lambda it may run ok to prove its the lambda? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 4, 2008 the lambda takes a while to warm up, thats why the ecu ignores it for a few minutes from cold. Also with WOT pressed i think the ecu uses a seperate map which ignores the lambda. I wonder if you used a resistor instead of lambda it may run ok to prove its the lambda? Nah, ive chopped the lambda signal wire right at the ecu not long ago to erradicate it as being a problem...And it still did the slow revving/popping/farting :( What i can't understand is that the lambda voltage still fluctuates when i connect to a cold bts, or is that because the ecu reads temp from the maf for that? Anyway, im pretty sure its not a lambda problem now...But yet the problem appears when it gets up to temp/fluctuating lambda voltage :? The problem dissapears if i: Hold wot switch closed. or Connect to a cold bts (with car upto temp) Ive got headache with thinking about it and racking my brain :bad-words: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted April 4, 2008 the annoying thing is, that by doing both of those things, you are removing the lambda probe from the system. WOT switch goes onto a different map, and so does the blue temp sensor. are you going to the GTI spring festival? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 4, 2008 I wish i could say yes mate, i really do, but im struggling to afford attending the one show i really want to get to :( I really appreciate the help all the way through this thread, I think bit by bit we will get there! So to bring the latest info onto page, erm, 37! :shock: The problem dissapears if i: Hold wot switch closed or Connect to a cold bts (with car upto temp) 1/ And we say both of these things make the lambda stop being used? 2/ Do each of those things do anything else? 3/ Does the lambda appear to check out ok from my readings etc? and remember the prob is there with it unplugged. 4/ I have 14v on one lambda heater wire, and the heater earth does indeed run to earth.All sound right? Thanks,Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted April 5, 2008 I know ive said it a million times but its eactly what mine did, maybe stop looking at it logically. I reckon when you start engine from cold its lean but drivable, then when lambda warms up it takes over fuelling but makes it even more lean still think fuel pressure Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted April 5, 2008 yeah check fuel pressure. Maybe fpr is faulty!?! It would explain alot.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Its a new genuine fuel pump, new fuel filter, and the third or fourth fpr ive tried guys...Can't be fuel pressure as there's nothing left to change pressure wise.And doing the above wouldn't bump the pressure up. Edit:Its even a new fuel line under the friggin car! Neil. :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Neil the best thing you can do is save some money and take it to a vag specialist. I'm a diy'er myself but sometimes you have to speak to the pro's.I had to suffer that indignity this week with my golf. Get it down to someone who knows the g60 like the back of their hand. Start saving your pennies bud. This is too nice a car to be suffering from running probs. :hitler: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Thanks mate, wish i had the means to take it somewhere right now! Its just the unknown as well, like if i have to leave the car with someone, may need hotel etc...the petrol and wotnot. Will have to see what i can do, really wanted it sorted for v.a.g 2008. Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Neil, Awesome GTI aren't that far away from you, do you think they might be able to help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Aye, i would hope so Stu...Just the money...With the problem being as weird as it is, im scared of taking it somewhere like that then having to leave it there etc and getting hit with a big bill especially if they put a few years! :shock: labour into it :lol: :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 5, 2008 What do we think about the fuel pump relay? Anyone know exactly what it does/how it works...I know they can tend to work a few different circuits like. And anyone know which one it is/what number? Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted April 5, 2008 What do we think about the fuel pump relay? Anyone know exactly what it does/how it works...I know they can tend to work a few different circuits like. And anyone know which one it is/what number? Neil. relay position number 12 .basically if you put pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to 12 volts then pins 87 to 30 will be short circuit. If you either un ground 85 or take 12volts off 86 then pins 87 to 30 will be open circuit. Make sense? Anyway when you turn on the ignition on pin 86 has 12 volts to it.The ecu also grounds pin 85 temporarily to prime the pump. Then when you crank and run it grounds pin 85 permanently. to run the pump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Cheers mate, discovered the above today after some testing...Was just hoping the fuel pump relay managed between open/closed loop somehow :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites