h100vw 0 Posted September 6, 2005 the gasket kit costs that...Probably more. 150psi upwards is good. I dont have my Bentley to hand but as long as they are all within 10% the motor should be solid. Leakdown, like you say pressurise each cylinder and see if/where the air comes out. Breather is the bottom end. Exhaust or inlet manifold is the head. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 6, 2005 thanks gavin, im off up there now for a quick look. ive written down the figures. neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 6, 2005 ok my girlfriend left me tonight. :roll: heres where im up to with the car... got upto the unit earlier on,and my dad had checked the timing-all fine. he had the head off,we couldnt see anything visibly wrong and he rang an old mate who said he would check it out. we took it over,he said theres quite a bit of play in the valves (side to side),and said he needs to strip it and check it out. will find out tommorow whats what. meanwhile i took off the crank pully,how tight! :shock: the good news is that its mint 8) the crank slot is perfect and so is the pully notch jobby. the bad news is,i dont know what the problem is now,so it depends on weather the valves or guides or something are fecked? maybe? hopefully? ps:my dad never did the compression test or leak test :roll: so the head is being sorted v cheaply hopefully,credit card will more than likely have to be used again :x and ill probably save up some cash for all the bits im gonna need,which brings me onto a couple of questions... 1/on the aux pully,theres a dot,and further round theres a line with a t on one side and a circle on the other side. what do i line up where to time the aux pully up? also there seems to be a bit of play in this pully,not sure if its normal or not? 2/my list of bits needed,have i missed anything? cambelt kit. head gasket set. new head bolts needed? exh manifold gaskets. inlet manifold gaskets. thats all i can think of right now,my heads in bits tbh. :( neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted September 7, 2005 The headset should come with the all gaskets you need. Side to side play in the valve guides wouldn't stop it running. Thats just normal wear but it would increase oil consumption. Causing smoke on the overrun and startup after being stood overnight. If it were really bad the plugs would be in a bad state. Ref the intermediate shaft, that's a chuffer to get just right. You need to re-fit the crank pulley with a couple of bolts. Then the dot on the outside should be lined up with the notch on the crank pulley. Then you rotate the crank pulley back to TDC, before tensioning the belt. To double check it, look at the rotor and the notch on the dissy body. I have always thought it to be too complicated. If you get it a tooth out, the car will run a bit funny when you start it up. You can recover that by setting the ign timing again and rotating the dissy. No sweat. New head bolts are a good idea. Although I have re-used them in the past many times. Very sorry to hear about your girlfriend, that's bad news. Sorry, not qualified to advise on matters of the heart. :cry: Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted September 7, 2005 so why did you actually remove the head... you seem to of given yourselve alot of unesscery work there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris M 0 Posted September 7, 2005 I was thinking that. only realy 3 reasons i'd have removed the head. 1/ something went clatter, clatter bang 2/ oil/water burnage 3/ to port/polish it. if it ain't running right its always fuel/air/timing/electrical first. Good luck with it mate, atleast you will know your head is spot on after. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 cheers guys, about the intermediate shaft: i cant just get my head round it,i stuck the crank pully back on and lined it up with the arrow.ahhhh hold on if the arrow lines up with the crank pully,the aux pully dot will be further anti clockwise than left? if you know what i mean? is that right? :oops: as for the reason the head came off,i dunno i just seem to deal with cowboy mechanics all the feckin time,no one seems to know what theyre on about :mad: they were thinking that a valve was sticking or burnt or something,and wanted me to leave the car with them which i couldnt afford to do so i went and did it myself. i realise that we should have done compression/leak tests first but im not really plugged in at the minute. what do you guys really think the problem is? i know its hard to pin point it without seeing it like... the popping back in inlet,then it clears up but wont drive properly,just big flat spots. when the lambda was unplugged it made no difference at tickover,lambda was tested not long ago and was fine. unplugging the knock sensor made no difference either. the plugs do look a little black,but it honestly dosnt use a drop of oil :? thanks,neil. ill be ringing the guy with the head soon to see what the crack is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 guys,what about the play in the inter/aux shaft? its in/out play and side to side,no oil leak though.... also where will i find all the torque settings for what i need? cheers,neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted September 7, 2005 Bentley Manual would probably be of some use to you at this point mate.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bix 0 Posted September 7, 2005 Or a golf 2 haynes manual Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted September 7, 2005 all intermeidiate shafts will have this in out play,, hope your car is ok when you put it back together, the way your going about sorting it out though unfortuneately makes little sense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 the way your going about sorting it out though unfortuneately makes little sense. thats the way my life is at the mo m8. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bix 0 Posted September 7, 2005 Head bolts: Tightening torque: engine cold tighten in sequence to 40 Nm (29 ft lb) tighten in sequence to 60 Nm (43 ft lb) tighten in sequence additional 1/2 turn (180) further in one movement (two 90 turns are permissible) remove cylinder head bolts in reverse sequence 10 4 2 6 8 .7 .5 1 3 9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 the guy with head says the inlet valves arent seating properly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 Head bolts: Tightening torque: engine cold tighten in sequence to 40 Nm (29 ft lb) tighten in sequence to 60 Nm (43 ft lb) tighten in sequence additional 1/2 turn (180) further in one movement (two 90 turns are permissible) remove cylinder head bolts in reverse sequence 10 4 2 6 8 .7 .5 1 3 9 thanks m8,noted! 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 the guy with head says the inlet valves arent seating properly? just bringing this onto next page... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted September 7, 2005 ah that could explain a few things, he should be able to re-cut your valves and seats to sort this, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 aye,thanks m8. he says lookin at it,its been burning very evenly across all 4 cylinders,and he's seen worse as far as the side to side play. do you think this could be my problem then? for some reason im not 100% confident it is... he mentioned re grinding them in,he's just trying to do it as cheaply as possible for me being a m8 of my dads and all. neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted September 7, 2005 may work,, think you have to be carefull re cutting the exhaust valves though, seem to remeber reading something in bentley about not doing it,, should be ok for the inlets.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 ahh ok m8. well its ready to pick up at 3pm 8) i might just dive in and buy all the bits i need,gsf do the head set at £65+vat,and its a metal head gasket,would the gsf stuff be ok? or should i get everything from vw? cambelt kit etc? neil. i hope to god its gonna work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted September 7, 2005 I used a GSF gasket but g-man said it was not in good shape after he bought my Golf. Might have been cos I re-used the head bolts. I'd get a price off VW and decide from there. You could buy a std 8V headset of GSF and get the head gasket from VW? Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 0 Posted September 7, 2005 vw headset is twice that price Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 vw headset is twice that price ahh :shock: ill check out vw price on the gasket alone. please,please god let the head/valves be the problem :roll: i dunno myself... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted September 7, 2005 guys,ive just thought... my exhaust manifold was starting to blow,possibly the problem? im guessing not :?: one of the nuts had to be rounded off when removing it too didnt it :mad: big chisel sorted it,also are the nuts copper? :? gsf list 8mm copper nuts for the zaust mani? neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites