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vr6paul

coolant change

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ok guys give me a clue.

Changing coolant on the Vr6 is it as simple as any other car i.e. open expansion tank and remove bottom hose or what?

Any advice please

cheers

Paul

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Remove expansion cap

Remove bottom rad hose

Unscrew block drain plug (to the left of the oil filter housing on the long pipe)

Allow to drain

Replace drain plug

Replace bottom hose

Remove top hose

Pour G12+/water mixture into the top hose and continue until coolant rises into the expansion tank

Replace top hose

Drive and get up to temperature

Allow to cool

Top up

Done

 

Do not fill via the expansion tank or you'll get an air lock.

 

Kev

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Apologies for the threadjack but...

 

My coolant level is currently below the Min Line (by about 5-10mm), but I'm not getting any signs of overheating or strange tempratures... (doing 700 miles/week at the mo') :shock:

 

I've got my C booked in for it's service next month, but in the meantime should I do something about this?

 

(I have no idea what's in there or what mixture has been used, or when it was last changed...)

 

Do the intsructions above apply to my C as well?

 

Cheers all,

 

DtM.

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duncanthemad, They do if you have G12 already in there. If not or you dont know your better of flushing the system out completely and starting again.

 

My car has a 50 /50 mixture.

 

Buy the G12 from the dealers, its not that expensive and use your CCGB membership card and you will get a massive 10% off.

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DtM,

 

Kev's instructions should be the same for all C's.

 

The dealer won't touch the coolant as part of a normal service.

As far as VW are concerned it's like the gearbox oil, sealed for life! :?

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The dealer won't touch the coolant as part of a normal service.

As far as VW are concerned it's like the gearbox oil, sealed for life! :?

 

S'okay, I wouldn't let a main dealer service my baby anyway...

 

Sealed for life...!? where did it go then...? Do I have a leak? :shock: (to add to the small oil leak I already have :( )

 

In the words of Dr Sam Beckett, "Oh boy!"

 

Thanks guys!

 

DtM.

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It will loose its properties after time, and then lead to corrosion, It also may have been topped up in the past with just water or another coolant type so may be contaminated...

 

I would recomend everyone to change coolant if its not been done before (especially if its gone a dark/murky colour!) and some would say every 2 years after that, its an easy job but worthwhile doing right as airlocks are easily created... Kev's method is best, filling from the rad top hose, this pushes air out of the system.

 

You may then notice a difference in opperating temps or the time it takes to get there, this will also prolong the life of cooling sytem components and therefore the engine too!

 

I would also recomend gearbox oil too, being changed to fully synthetic can make a noticable difference

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It would be better changing it than never changing it. Fresh water, fresh coolant, especiall as there is G12 now from the g11 coolant that was used.

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I would also recomend gearbox oil too, being changed to fully synthetic can make a noticable difference

 

 

I've heard good reports of a tube of molyslip at the same time helps too!!!

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Yeah I've heard the same about Molyslip and also Slick 50 gear additive. Never add Slick 50 to the engine, but it's actually quite good in the gearbox.

 

Castrol do a VW specific gear oil, an 80/90W multigrade but I can't remember it's name. It's pretty good stuff.

 

Kev

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.... Never add Slick 50 to the engine, but it's actually quite good in the gearbox.

 

 

 

Hmmmmm - confusion reigns over slick50 in the engine. I've heard conflicting reoprts - some people swear by it, others say avoid it like the plague... :shock: :? :? :?

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kevhaywire, What is wrong with slick 50? I have never used it in the C but used it in other cars?

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Slick 50 Settlement

From the Sept. 1997 issue of MOTOR magazine:

 

"SLICK 50 Settlement.

 

Three subsidiaries of Quaker State Corp. have agreed to settle Federal Trade Commission charges that ads for Quaker State's Slick 50 engine treatment were false and unsubstantiated. According to the settlement, the companies will be barred from making certain claims and be required to have substantiation for claims about the products. Additionally, the settlement will preserve the Commission's option to seek consumer redress if class action suits currently being litigated against Quaker State and its subsidiaries result in less than $10 million in consumer compensation.

 

In July 1996, the FTC issued a complaint against four Quaker State subsidiaries. (Those subsidiaries are now defunct, and have been succeeded in interest by the three subsidiaries named in the settlement.) The FTC's 1996 complaint charged that ads for Slick 50 claiming improved engine performance and reduced engine wear were deceptive and lacked substantiation.

 

The agreement to settle the FTC charges bars any claims that 1. engines lack protection from wear at startup unless they have been treated with

Slick 50 or a similar PTFE product; 2. engines commonly experience premature wear unless they are treated with Slick 50 or a similar product;

and 3. Slick 50 or a similar product coats engine parts with a layer of PTFE.

 

In addition, the agreement will prohibit misrepresentations that Slick 50 or any engine lubricant meets the standards of any organization andmisrepresentation about tests or studies.

 

The settlement also prohibits the three subsidiaries from making any claims about the performance, benefits, efficacy, attributes or use of engine lubricants unless they possess and rely on competent and reliable evidence to substantiate the claims. And finally, it holds open the option that the FTC may seek consumer redress. If the private class action suits against Slick 50 currently under litigation do not result in at least $10 million in redress to consumers, the agency reserves its right to file its

own federal district court action for consumer redress. The FTC has also reserved its right to seek to intervene in any class action suit to oppose

a settlement it believes is not in the public interest."

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Basically what slick50 does is put a slippy coating over all the surfaces to make things move more smoothly.

On some cars however, once there is a coating on certain oil tracts though, they end up to narrow restricting the flow of oil to the cylinderhead causing oil starvation problems.

I dont know how any vw engines are for this but I know a lot of BMW E30 325i's have suffered a lot with this.

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Thanks Supercharged, you found the massive missive on the subject, should explain all!

 

When Slick 50 was first launched in the 80s, they claimed a Ford Capri using the stuff found an extra 12bhp and could run dry for 15 minutes with no internal wear. Now, for £30 or £40, does that sound feasible to you?

 

From my limited knowledge of chemistry, to chemically bond a substance (forget the correct terminology) to another material has to be done in controlled and CLEAN environments. Chucking it in with existing engine oil is not really a sound method in my opinion. Yes, the particules of PTFE that didn't bond to the engine internals would congest various oil ways.

 

Try it at your own risk!

 

Kev

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