DUB 0 Posted June 21, 2006 So i've looked at the past chat's about - Induction and is it worth changing std air filter box for cone filter, and I to do prefer the std air box look, and going by the past write up's on the subject in some peoples opinion this is the better choice for performance as well as engine bay looks,I have looked in some depth and have found that std air box works better with performance panel filter along side the fact that the flute is re-moved and the air box is drilled out - my problem is which is the best panel for the job? how much to drill the air box out? and where to drill the air box out? if possible can anyone supply me with pictures, all in the aid of helping my C breath easier,all advice more than wellcome? :twisted: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veeDuB_Rado 0 Posted June 21, 2006 Make a few holes at the bottom of the airbox, made mine sound bettttterrer :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slimjimvw 0 Posted June 21, 2006 This is my air box , which is fitted to a heavily tuned 2ltr 16v used with a K&N filter , it made a massive differnce , on the rollers with a std airbox the engine was nearly 10bhp down , very restrictive Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted June 21, 2006 Bloody hell!! Swiss cheese!! One of the better mods for the G60 is a cold air feed. General concensus is that the standard airbox is best for the G60 - DON'T put a cone/foam or similar type of filter on there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ardandy 0 Posted June 21, 2006 What about VR6? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted June 21, 2006 Best bet from what i've been told is an enclosed filter like the BMC CDA! Great noise too... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rolex 0 Posted June 21, 2006 What about VR6? http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42894 they only need a couple more :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted June 21, 2006 This is my air box , which is fitted to a heavily tuned 2ltr 16v used with a K&N filter , it made a massive differnce , on the rollers with a std airbox the engine was nearly 10bhp down , very restrictive Missed a bit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kick Up The Rs 0 Posted June 21, 2006 I hated the noise from my G60 when I had a play & took the snorkel out of the airbox. My question is, going the cold air feed route (hole in bottom of the airbox with pick up pipe where the cc used to sit), does the induction sound quieter compared to with the snorkel removed on the std airbox? Hope this makes sense - it does to me I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted June 21, 2006 Missed a bit :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ben16v 0 Posted June 21, 2006 This is my air box , which is fitted to a heavily tuned 2ltr 16v used with a K&N filter , it made a massive differnce , on the rollers with a std airbox the engine was nearly 10bhp down , very restrictive what have you done to your engine and what specs you got off the rollers?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60greeny 0 Posted June 21, 2006 slimjimvw, an thats an air box how? :lol: might aswell just get rid!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve_16v 0 Posted June 22, 2006 There's a good guide for modifying the 16v airbox on the Scottish region CCGB website Click here Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted June 22, 2006 removing the snorkel actually loses you 1-2bhp! ive seen dyno plots to prove! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted June 22, 2006 This is my air box , which is fitted to a heavily tuned 2ltr 16v used with a K&N filter , it made a massive differnce , on the rollers with a std airbox the engine was nearly 10bhp down , very restrictive what have you done to your engine and what specs you got off the rollers?? its one of my 2 ltr engines,, dave crissel cyl head, shrick cams, 4 branch 2.5 inch exhaust, 9a 2 ltr bottom end, fully balanced and lightened with Scat conrods,, its a revvy beast, only just finished running it in so no power figures yet but should be circa 185 - 195 bhp,, :wink: WMS tuned,, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DUB 0 Posted June 22, 2006 Seriously - is that box not drilled a bit to much? might aswel not have the bottom half! how much should you really drill it out? as i dont want to much cack getting to the filter - but do want more suction and sound - recomendations for filter panels? K&N/jetex/pipper ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted June 22, 2006 i think jim went a bit overboard,, tis a tidy job none the less and definitley improved the car thing to do is make sure you only drill it so that its getting air from the cold side,, my preferance would be just a couple of large holes say 70mm diameter as it looks allot more professional than the "swiss cheesing" ......................... on my g60 i just sunk an 80mm hole in the bottom above wher ethe carbon cannister used to be,, lots of nice cool air comes up from this location,, and whipped the trumpet out of the front of the box,, seems to go well enough,, :twisted: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DUB 0 Posted June 22, 2006 I've herd to take the trumpet out "what right out" so it does'nt even conect to the front duct or just the pipe inside the box? and is cold side side nearest the wing towards the front to gain more air flow? thanks for your help mate :thumb right: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted June 22, 2006 yeap nearest the wing towards the front, if you remove the bottom half of the airbox form teh car and put it on teh bench you should be able to simply with a bit of force pull that trumpet right out,, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DUB 0 Posted June 22, 2006 so right out then i took it out yesterday the little blitter took the skin off my nuckels, but did'nt no if it would be better to keep the front bit where it connects to the duct to aid air flow? concerns me {induction} Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrishill 0 Posted June 22, 2006 I drilled the airbox on my old valver down the wing side. On the first attempt I over did it (15 or so large holes) and the car sounded like a spitfire, pinked like mad and felt slow. Using some duct-tape i experimented by blocking up all the holes, then unblocking one by one until the car felt 'right' to me. No real power gains from what i could tell, probably a loss TBH but the throttle pickup improved. In the end I had about nine 5cm diameter holes down the wing side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 22, 2006 I drilled the airbox on my old valver down the wing side. On the first attempt I over did it (15 or so large holes) and the car sounded like a spitfire, pinked like mad and felt slow. Using some duct-tape i experimented by blocking up all the holes, then unblocking one by one until the car felt 'right' to me. No real power gains from what i could tell, probably a loss TBH but the throttle pickup improved. In the end I had about nine 5cm diameter holes down the wing side. After years of trying things myself and talking to tuners, other owners and reading other peoples experiences of different air-box/inlet mods, I've come to the conclusion that: a) the standard factory stuff is best on most cars, including the snorkel b) panel filters in place of the paper filter are OK but really just give you a re-usable filter c) drilled boxes, removing the snorkel etc.. just makes more noise (only nice on a VR IMO) and often actually reduces torque The G60 obviously benefits from cold air as it's F.I. so a cone filter is pointless without proper shielding and air supply and anything other than the factory paper filter is dubious for filtration which could leave you with a sort of grinding paste in the charger - do you want to risk that! One thing I'm pretty sure of is that the standard 16v inlet system is not restrictive, how else could people get close to 200bhp on the standard system? The air-flap is the main limiting factor for 200bhp+ normally aspirated 16v cars and the only way to replace that is throttle bodies and a stand alone ECU! David. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DUB 0 Posted June 22, 2006 Hey Dave so what your saying is dont bother doing anything to my 60's std box? :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 22, 2006 davidwort, spot on 8). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 22, 2006 Hey Dave so what your saying is dont bother doing anything to my 60's std box? :? I reckon. It's forced induction, so the only improvement you need is colder air - save up for a decent intercooler :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites