Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 14, 2006 Hi folks. I'm having trouble with my VR being Lumpy/Hesitant/Stuttery. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a pattern to the problem. I've now replaced the plugs, leads & coilpack but the problem still remains. I've noticed that there is a clicking noise from the fusebox area when the stutter happens. I've tried to search on possible causes but haven't had much luck. Could it be that I have a problem with a relay or fuse, or maybe a bad earth? Has anyone heard of a similar problem? I've had it on VAG-COM & posted the results but nobody had heard of the fault I was getting. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I really cant afford to keep replacing parts at random! Thanks, Dogzyboy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted November 14, 2006 Change the ECU relay at position 3 with the number 109 on top. The part number has changed from 357 906 381 to 1J0 906 381 A. The cost just under £11 from VW and a decent dealer should stock one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 14, 2006 Thanks Crasher, I'll go and try to get one of those tomorrow. :) Cheers, Dogzyboy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 20, 2006 I've now changed both the Fuel Pump & the ECU relays but I'm still having the same problems. Driving home tonight seemed to be a lot worse than driving to work this morning. I'm wondering if it's either due to the increase in electrical load or due to the wet roads?? Looking at some posts, I'm wondering if this could be alternator related, or maybe bad earthing points?? Anyone got any ideas, as my bank account is starting to struggle now... :( Cheers, Dogzyboy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted November 20, 2006 Are you still getting the clicking from the fuse box? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 20, 2006 Yeah, I'm still getting a clicking noise from the fusebox area. Do you reckon it could be one of the other relays causing the problem? Now that I mention it, I forgot to add that the relay to the right of the ECU one (position 4) seemed really hot today. What does the relay in pos 4 do, and do you think it would cause the problems I'm having? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 21, 2006 Bump... Anyone got any ideas?? I've had to revert back to the oil burning pug as the raddo is currently doing my head in :( Please help me fix the VR so I can actually enjoy driving again!! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted November 21, 2006 could it possibly be that the fuel filter is clogged???.........has the fuel pump ever been changed??.........mine died about 3 years ago @ only 60-ish k miles,so reckon it was more age related than mileage affected Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 21, 2006 I guess that could be the problem? Would a dodgy fuel filter/pump make the car feel like it's dropped a cylinder? As far as I know the fuel pump hasn't been changed, but I've only had it a couple of months. I'll check though all the paperwork I got with the car when I get home. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted November 21, 2006 the thing I noticed very very intermittently with mine was the classic stalling at round-a-bouts/junctions.........since the new pump its never once done it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 21, 2006 I've never actually had the car stall on me, just an intermitent judder which I guess could be a splutter? Maybe I should get a fuel filter & see if that makes a difference? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted November 21, 2006 have you looked at the clicking area in the dark yet? helps to see rouge sparks, i had one on the little bracket above coilpack, only tiny Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted November 21, 2006 I think that position 4 is the load reduction relay, (also known as X-relief). This is the one that cuts out lots of circuits during engine cranking to give the starter motor all the juice. I'm having trouble with this at the moment and have still to get to the bottom of it. Symptom is that all those circuits sometimes fail to be reconnected after starting (headlights, wipers, heater blower, ABS etc.). Another relay, another £10. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 21, 2006 Yeah, Initially I had Coilpack issues & though thats what the problem was. I've now changed that & tested with the plant mister to make sure the new one is ok, which it is. The clicking is actually coming from the fusebox area & I think it's one of the relays. Why it's doing it though, I have no idea?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted November 21, 2006 Relay number four is the X relay which provides power to the headlights, wipers, heater blower etc. If this relay clicks, it is a good indication of a faulty ignition switch that could also cause your other problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 21, 2006 Ok. So, lots of possibles then, thanks for all the suggestions folks. On list of possibles are: Ignition switch Load Reduction Relay Fuel Filter Fuel Pump Bad earth? Alternator? Battery? I reckon I'll maybe start with the cheaper options of Ignition Switch then Load Relay then Fuel Filter. Unless anyone has another idea? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 29, 2006 Been trying to track down whats going on with this. I'm now almost certain it's not fuel related. What I have noticed is that this only happens under throttle (usually only slight pedal movements), and never under idle. Could this be a TPS problem? I had a look under the bonnet last night & it looks like a new style TPS has been fitted at some point. Do these break often? Another thought I had, do you reckon it could be my Clifford alarm/imobiliser causing the problem? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just not wanting to have to buy a new TPS to find out it's not the problem. Thanks, Dogzyboy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattkh 0 Posted November 29, 2006 Hi Clean the MAF sensor if you havent done that already. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 29, 2006 Not tried that yeat actually. I'm planning to give the ISV a good clean over the weekend, I might as well look at cleaning up the MAF while I'm at it. It's carb cleaner I need for the ISV, do I want contact cleaner for the MAF? Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted November 29, 2006 I used brake cleaner for the MAF. It is isopropanol, and evaporates without leaving a residue. It certainly did the trick for me. Incidentally, I changed the coilpack last week - that has greatly improved overall smoothness of running, especially on acceleration from low revs. The old one was not apparently arcing when damp, but it must have been generally below par even though the casing seems to be un-cracked. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted November 29, 2006 Just done another scan on VAG-COM & am still getting the following fault: 01253 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 5 (N83) 63-10 - Temperature Shut-Down - Intermittent. Does anyone have any idea what this fault is? I can't find any info on it anywhere. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazyDave 0 Posted November 29, 2006 If relay 3 is still dropping out you'll loose the feed to the fuel injectors, coil, ISV the lot. It's driven from an output on the ECU. It's very strange that you get that fault, but if your car has been hacked about by the immob lot it could have some 'extra' features that you won't know about. Just to prove the point, get your old relay and remove the lid. Jam a plastic cable tie into it to close the contacts all the while and plug it in. Start the car and go for a drive. If the problem disapears it could be immobiliser related as this relay is used for that. DON'T leave this relay in as you'll end up with a flat battery or worse. That stuff from Maplin does the trick with the MAF. Somebody posted it up recently give it a search. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted December 1, 2006 Right, tried the plastic cable tie in the old ECU relay trick, as you suggested Crazy Dave. Unfortunately, the clicking was still going crazy. :x I now reckon it has to be the Load Reduction Relay thats doing the clicking. Will it be ok for me to start the car with this relay in, then whip it out for the rest of my journey to see if it's definitely that one? Or is this going to cause me some other problems? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dogzyboy 0 Posted December 1, 2006 Just been for a drive without the Load Reduction Relay removed & the clicks still occur, so that rules that one out... My next suspect is the relay directly above the ECU Relay in Pos 3. Does anyone know what this might be on a '95 VR6 without aircon or electric seats? Anyway, this relay seemed a bit wobbly, so I took it out for a look & it looked a bit black. I've sprayed it with some contact cleaner & I'll see if it makes any difference on the way home tonight. I would get an auto electrician to take a look, but it only ever occurs whenn you are driving, so I've no idea how he would be able to find the fault?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rosswalker 0 Posted December 1, 2006 I know biggrim had a similar problem a while back that turned out to be a relay. Off the top of my head I cant remember what one, might be worth sending him a pm to check if you still dont have any joy. - Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites