mrbeige 0 Posted September 22, 2007 the ABF is also a "tall block",so I would say yes. I did think that, but are the crank, intermediate shaft and camshaft pulleys the same as the 9A? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted September 22, 2007 the ABF is also a "tall block",so I would say yes. I did think that, but are the crank, intermediate shaft and camshaft pulleys the same as the 9A? Lol,you have me doubting my own mind now. Yes I have relied on this information to build a 2 litre block which is basically the same as 9A(Appart from the pistons :wink: ) ,by borrowing parts from an ABF block. To sumarise crank pulley for kr,9a,abf = 027 105 263 B intermediate pulley for kr,9a = 027 109 111 G intermediate shaft for 9a,abf = 053 115 017 C Gear thingy that goes on the end of the drive shaft on the oil pump for 9a,abf =053 115 027 A Hope this helps. You can call your local dealer and check all this if you like. I got this info from etka. p.s Obviously your block will not have the same deck height as a 9a though..... Not sure what implictions that may have. :? ta. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dub_nut_g60 0 Posted October 19, 2007 I may possibly be looking into the realms of a supercharged 16v. My G60 is dead for starters! I may buy the 2.0 16v engine that Goldie/Toad are selling. This has probably been covered before but, what would be involved in using the G-Lader on the 2.0 16v? Short runner? lower compression? different throttle body? and what sort of ball park ish cost for parts (will probabaly attempt myself/with Toad (although he doesnt know it yet!)) I will be able to use the G60 ECU but will i need the 16v wiring loom etc...??? Sorry if it a basic question but am only just starting to look into it from necessity! TIA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted October 19, 2007 Hi mate. Its been a long week and I'm feeling a bit lazy. Need sleep. Have a read of this and post up about anything you don't understand. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1784212 enjoy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted October 19, 2007 (will probabaly attempt myself/with Toad (although he doesnt know it yet!)) Lol!!! I had a funny feeling about this... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jslootweg 0 Posted October 22, 2007 I'm seriously looking into the Bahn Brenner stuff that is available in the US. eg. http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/prod ... _3_Chassis with this turbo http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/ca ... p?pid=2094 The price isn't too bad considering the strength of the dollar vs the pound at the moment. I'm currently re-building a 16v lump and was planning to go megasquirt anyway so half of me is telling me to bung a turbo on it and the other half of me is telling me grow up and be sensible :), Anyway the reason i'm posting is that I have read around online that some turbochargers are really only for off road use due to the emissions problems they cause. Is this going to be a problem with the above items. What difference does adding a turbo charger make to MOT over here anyway? Cheers in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dec 1 Posted October 22, 2007 Just remember that you will probably have £75-£80 quid delivery charge + the guts of £100 Vat/customs charges, when ordering something that big from the US! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted October 22, 2007 plenty folk on here are running tubo's etc in their daily drivers,and have been doing so for years for as much as can gather anyway. As long as the engine is set up properly and all of the engine components are in good health you shouldn't have any problems at MOT time!?!! At idle the engine is off boost anyway,i.e the turbo won't be spinning.I can't see how it would affect emissions at MOT. Maybe someone else will enlighten us?!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted October 22, 2007 Question regarding main and rod bearing shells. Would people recommend stock VW ones or something like these (thanks to Karl for that website linkie) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonesmark12 0 Posted November 15, 2007 Righty, I bought Gareths Rs2 set up a few weeks ago, and planning to get all the parts and then do the job in one big go over the winter - can i ask, has anyone tried mounting their IC running along the lower bumper grill outlets? i'm in the process of looking at units which can fit that gap - it seems there are some turbo'd vtec ic's going around which are long and thin which were designed for the civic. Basically i dont really want to alter the bumper with holes, so instead of having part of the ic covered up, i planned on having a long thin one exposed to the max. along the bottom. also does anyone have any knowledge over turbo'd g60 ecu's? otherwise i'm going over to emerald! :? I've got a g60 ecu which is said to be set up for turbo. Is there any methods of hooking it up so that i can see if this is correct?! i dont want to have to wire it all up to then find its wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 15, 2007 - can i ask, has anyone tried mounting their IC running along the lower bumper grill outlets? i'm in the process of looking at units which can fit that gap - it seems there are some turbo'd vtec ic's going around which are long and thin which were designed for the civic. Do you mean the long row of slats under the number plate? I have my chargecooler's pre-rad down in that gap, which is about 20" long, by 6" by 1" deep and it's invisible unless you get on your knees and look for it. Took a bit of work getting it in there mind. Slam panel and bumper iron needed slight modification. I doubt you'd get an IC down there as neat though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonesmark12 0 Posted November 15, 2007 thats exactly where i'm talking about, i'm fine with it poping out a bit from under there - so not having the plastic slats anymore - but i need to have a play around with mock up cerial boxes me thinks to see what can fit in there! going to be more that 1' deep! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 16, 2007 Yeah that would work, if it pokes out a bit. I angled my prerad to the same as the bumper so that it actually sits behind the slats.... but you could drop yours down under the bumper vertically and I reckon it would fit OK. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vwdeviant 0 Posted November 16, 2007 Bit :offtopic: and into 20v teritory...but as all the FI brains seem to hang out here... Anyone know of a co. who offer ready made 1.8T Conversion downpipes for the Rado.. can find MK1/2 goof ones at QPE.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 16, 2007 One of these might fit dude.... http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merch ... =AUDIVW-DP Or Jabba will know Or QST will know Or John Malik at Stealth will know Or Qpeng will know Or JKM will know Or Awesome will know Or you could copy the ones the guys on here have done? Pretty much a MK2 downpipe really, and there should be plenty of those about I would have thought? Or failing that, Batman might know? :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted November 17, 2007 inspiration. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iggi 0 Posted November 19, 2007 does anyone on here still run k-jet with a 16v turbo like the turbo technics kit? :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 26, 2007 Things have moved on from then but that's precisely how mine was fuelled. Turbo Technics used a 5th injector for boost fuelling and they rarely made over 180hp with the T25 turbo. Standalones were very exotic and expensive in the 80s when they developed the kit, as was EFI, hence the 5th injector. Still.....in the mid to late 80s, a 180hp MK2 Golf pissed on most things. Back in 1998 when my 16V T engine was built, good standalones still cost a bloody fortune, so to get round that, Stealth Racing bought up all the remaining Turbo Technics 16V T kits and refined them with an additional rail of four VR6 injectors (about 240cc I think they are), which was controlled by a K Star KS301 unit. If folk remember, that was the unit that allowed Golf 16Vs to run on 95 unleaded by altering off idle timing. You can only remove timing though, not add it, but that was fine for turbos anyway. They also offset bushed the small ends to give a CR of 8.5:1 and the motor could then dish out ~ 220hp all day long. A 40hp improvement on Turbo Technics....just from sorting the fuelling out! The original TT kits always ran far too lean at the top end and many pinked themselves to death on 95 unleaded. When developed in the 80s, they had 5 star 100 octane leaded fuel to play with, so it wasn't as much of a problem at the time. I tell you one thing..... a K jet fuelled 16V T is a thing of beauty. If only my VRT was half as smooth and responsive off boost. It really is sublime. You cannot beat mechanical injection for responsiveness and smoothness imo..... People often junk it when they max out the air meter, but it's the most reliable and robust injection system ever!! There are ways round it's limitations though, but ultimately some folk want a finer degreee of control over the fuelling and / or closed loop for economy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted November 26, 2007 Things have moved on from then but that's precisely how mine was fuelled. They also offset bushed the small ends to give a CR of 8.5:1 and the motor could then dish out ~ 220hp all day long. A 40hp improvement on Turbo Technics....just from sorting the fuelling out! I do think that there are some very serious gains to be had in both bhp and torque and, as importantly, how it is delivered through the use of more modern engine management systems. The likes of Emerald and Megasquirt are not massively expensive and can allow for some wide adjustments in engine performance. In the hands of experienced tuners other 'off the shelf' solutions can produce even larger gains. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 26, 2007 Absolutely, and as ever, the only limiting factor these days is wallet size! Back then, computers and chips weren't what they are now and technology was limited, regardless of wallet size! The Garrett T25 Turbo Technics used wouldn't yield much over 240hp though. It used to run out of puff past 6300ish rpm running 10.5psi, let alone any more :-) Get a Garrett Gt3071R on a valver with a standalone and you're talking about a quick spooling, 450hp beast. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waynos 0 Posted December 6, 2007 mine was a turbo technics kit. 5th injector was intermittent tho so ive binned all that setup and used megasquirt and a t28 turbo instead hoping to get it up and running in the next week or so Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted December 7, 2007 Get a Garrett Gt3071R on a valver with a standalone and you're talking about a quick spooling, 450hp beast. Stop it, you're making me wet! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vwdeviant 0 Posted December 7, 2007 Get a Garrett Gt3071R on a valver with a standalone and you're talking about a quick spooling, 450hp beast. If only that easy too! We'd all be driving them! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LowG 0 Posted January 7, 2008 16v power, 7 seconds :infinity: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonesmark12 0 Posted January 9, 2008 that looks awesome!! :multi: :shocked!: Try plonking that in my nugget!! (please!) Quick question - was getting lower comp pistons - but the chap i was buying them off has gone quiet. Amongst my box of bits and bobs are a spacer. Does anyone know much about these, it terms of what thickness the plate should be with stadard Kr pistons, head etc? Is it a case of placing the spacer on the head and then just mounting the gasket back ontop again? IIRC the spacer is no more than 3mm thick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites