_leon_ 0 Posted February 20, 2007 I've got my engine back together (G60) and got the fliuds in to start it again...but have 2 issues I need to get sorted out! 1) the water pump pulley is out of line with the drive pulley over the crank pulley - its a groove and a half out. Anyone else had this problem? Or know what face should be looking away from the block? 2) priming the engine - am i correct in removing the wiring harness from the distributor along with the cap and turning the key? Or how do I correctly do this? I've been given the suggeston of checking oil is flowing to the charger oil feed - does this need sufficient pressure before you can check this? Or what else could I check? Thanks for any help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted February 20, 2007 The water pump pulley is adjustable for offset by loosing the pulleys outer bolts and rotating the pulley clockwise or anticlockwise as necessary to achieve alignment but a groove and a half sounds a lot, the deviation must be no more than 0.4-mm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted February 20, 2007 Thanks. Yeah I thought about offsetting it - but it shouldn't need to as its just been taken off and put back on. the crank pulley has also been removed and replaced - so I can't think what else to do other than refit both. About priming the engine first - I've replaced the cylinder head and not sure what the best procedure is for priming. any help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted February 20, 2007 Ok - think one of the pulleys has been put on incorrectly. Will check later. Priming - removing the hall sender, cap, spark plugs and cranking it over for a minute should do the trick. Please correct me if i am wrong. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 5, 2007 have found a washer on the alternator pulley is upsetting the alignment too. i'd remove it straight away but it looks like it should be there and since the cars been undriven for so long i can't remember whether its always been there or not since changing the alternator. Below is a screen shot taken from the bentley manual - can anyone tell me whether their alternator pulley setup is the same please? or if they are using any other washers - not exactly a big problem, but would like to know what the washer is on my car! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 5, 2007 anyone? the etka page doesn't complement the bentley manual - see attachment - i could just lose the washer and be done with it - but there must be something thats not right - just need to knwo what is actually the 'correct' way... does the washer used as on the bentley manual above have a keyway cut out? or just a thin disc? anyone know the diameter/depth of the washer? thanks for any help 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Monkey 0 Posted March 5, 2007 Think I just had the king lead off of the dizzy when I primed mine, that's enough to stop it firing, but it was a year ago! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted March 6, 2007 The washer is sposed to be there, just remove king lead/coil lead to prime Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 19, 2007 when i got the alternator - it didn't come with a pulley - so just used the old one. got a garage to air gun the pulley and fan etc off - but since then i can't remember the order or what exactly was on the old one. i've since been told vag should give you the pulley etc with a new alternator. seems the pulley and alternator fit fine but arent matched to align properly with the other pullies. heres a pic - does that look the same as everyone else's? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted March 19, 2007 did you sort priming the engine out? i had to remive the dizzy completly and turn the oil pump with a drill attachment. this way the engine will pump oil around including to the charger without actually turning the engine over (bad idea with no oil in there) the attachment is a long bolt with a notch cut out of the head to sit on the oil pump shaft and i put it in the drill and wound it over, crude but effective Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 19, 2007 had no problems with the priming - just the alternator pulley doesnt line up now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60bv 0 Posted March 19, 2007 just unplug the hall sensor. and spark plugs to remove spark and compression. turn over for 30 seconds. remove the water cap, install the sparks ang hall sender. fire up the engine. squeese the water hose off the rad and leav engine to warm up, 10 mins. check the water temp, as the rads can get air locked. don't let it to over heat as it could knacker the temp sensors. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted March 19, 2007 argghhhh - anyone for the alternator question? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60bv 0 Posted March 19, 2007 ooooh. er no. only check the push bearings on the mount. when you do the bolts up these will be pushed back and reset in there normal postion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted March 19, 2007 just unplug the hall sensor. and spark plugs to remove spark and compression. turn over for 30 seconds. remove the water cap, install the sparks ang hall sender. fire up the engine. squeese the water hose off the rad and leav engine to warm up, 10 mins. check the water temp, as the rads can get air locked. don't let it to over heat as it could knacker the temp sensors. Never prime an engine this way.. if you have any oil issue's you bearing will be ruined before you do 2mins running Allways prime the oilpump using RObs method Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60bv 0 Posted March 19, 2007 :oops: ok daz. i've been wrong on a few things on cars recently. :cry: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
