gogsboy 0 Posted October 7, 2007 Quite pricey but due to fact getting all the kit for $47 guess cant be bad. Do people normally do the crack pipe, I mean is it one of those things if doing the housing etc just aswell to do it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 7, 2007 Quite pricey but due to fact getting all the kit for $47 guess cant be bad. Do people normally do the crack pipe, I mean is it one of those things if doing the housing etc just aswell to do it. Crack pipe original is apparently poor with bits tending to crumble - that is why at least 10 of us bought Gruvenparts alloy one last week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 7, 2007 yeah i might get that gruvenparts crackpipe aswell too bad the alloy thermosat housing isnt ready yet!! how easy are the alloy crack pipes to fit?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 22, 2007 Just ordered my bits for this at VW collect 2morrow and my thermostat 70 degree should be coming tomorrow too! And may have got a gruvenparts crack pipe aswell woo! looks like will start it thursday! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 22, 2007 Jon_vr6 When you tighten up the thermo housing bolts remember the torque is a low 7ftlbs (10Nm). Dont overtighten or you may crack plastic housing bits, or they may crack when they heat up. Also, make sure the face on the engine block to take the odd shaped rubber gasket between block and housing is cleaned up and sanded down a bit. I found a cheap Ikea shaving mirror I have lying around in the garage greatly helps you to see things properly. Good luck! 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 22, 2007 Mines clean luckily already taken apart when they did the head recon so all shiney and new thanks for the tip tho fella mine should look like your when finished as ive happened to come accross a gruvenparts crackpipe and it was the first one over to the uk and is the one in all the pics ITS FAMOUS!lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 23, 2007 Why have i got 2 of them funny shaped gaskets that goes in between the housing and the head??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 23, 2007 The roughly triangular one? If so, you only need one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 23, 2007 You mean rectangle ?? Lol i got two then only charged for one a freebie at last! Thought i only need one! Just waiting on my 70 oc thermostat and the alloy crack pipe now might sound weird but cant wait to get my hands dirty love messing with engines should have been a mechanic! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 23, 2007 Yes. Most likely. Not as triangular as I remembered. :lol: By the way, my old crack pipe was a pig to get out. I still have a really sore arm! Also, had to dremel/emery rusty hole in block before fitting new one in (as recommended by others). Hope you find it all good fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 23, 2007 im not going to rush it but will aim for 3 hrs and see how good i am at removing everything! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 25, 2007 how the hell did everyone remove their crackpipe to replace with a gruvenparts one have got everything else off ready but the crackpipe fook me its on tight and you cant grip it have wd40ed it and leaving till tomorrow if its still the same im gonna leave the old one anyone got any tips etc Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted October 25, 2007 how the hell did everyone remove their crackpipe to replace with a gruvenparts one have got everything else off ready but the crackpipe fook me its on tight and you cant grip it have wd40ed it and leaving till tomorrow if its still the same im gonna leave the old one anyone got any tips etc Cheers Mine wasn't too bad... just a bit of wiggling and it popped out... I wonder if I've had an engine rebuild as it's quite clean?? Hmmmm Something doesn't add up with it.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 25, 2007 Wiggle it about at all angles while using a pulling action. I was gonna add a few drops of Fairy liquid next but did not need to. You have to try and remember it does not matter if you break it, either, as you will be replacing it with your alloy one. I still have sore arm muscles! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 25, 2007 Went into the garage just now and looked at the crackpipe i thought to myself your coming off right now so grabbed hold of it and pulled it towards me extreme style and low and behold off it came buzzin now wooo! Just gotta put everything back on tomorrow now and shes back up and running for a friday night drive! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 25, 2007 :thumb right: :onfire: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 25, 2007 Cheers fella think ive done all the hard stuff now i think i hope! Do i need to use any kind of sealant on the crackpipe where it joins at the left hand side and the right hand side ??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 25, 2007 I didn't use sealant as I read somewhere that you should not. However, I have also seen that some individuals have used sealant. I preferred not to, as I have worked with sealants for years on household stuff and aquaria and suspected that some of it could come adrift and cause a blockage. That was my thinking, anyway. I had not put all of car front back on initially, so that I could have dismantled stuff again if I needed to. Try it without sealant first, I would say. Maybe those high tech O rings on the crack pipe can hold more comfortably than we think. I decided to try without sealant first and, miracle of miracles - no leak, even on a speedy 130 mile round trip of mixed driving a couple of days later. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 26, 2007 ALL DONE THANK FOOK that was one hell of a job! 8) Cheers everyone for the parts and the encouragement to do it myself! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gogsboy 0 Posted October 28, 2007 Wonder if someone could point me in the right direction with regards to parts I need off this diagram as yet again a main dealer lets me down, they dont seem to know what you want when you ask for the whole housing etc. Anyway I took this off them and wondered which numbers do you need from the diagram, not the whole lot I guess. I already have the thermostat, part number 4 and 2 from VW but don't think they gave me new allen bolts or whatever they are. Was intending to get the rest from Ford but they don't seem very sure themselves Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 28, 2007 I did not get all the Allan bolts, gogsboy, but you can use the old ones IMO as they are strong and the torque requirement is low. I ended getting my parts from both Ford and VW. I will give you a list when I have hunted them down. Regards Iain Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 28, 2007 I used these part numbers off page 5 If replacing everything you should have new: 021 121 117A - Main housing, 021 121 133D - front housing elbow, 021 121 121A - thermostat elbow,*** You already have this part!*** b 075 121 113D - thermostat & seal (should come together from VW), ***You already have this part!*** b 025 906 041A - Blue b701 919 369D - Yellow and b357 919 369F - Black sensors, 3 x N903 168 02 - small O-rings that go with the sensors, 2 x N101 392 01 - slightly larger O-rings to go on the crack (drainage) pipe and the front housing elbow, 1 x 021 121 119A - odd shaped seal (kind of rectangle) that is for between the main housing and the block. So you just need the other parts above they are the VW part numbers and thats if you replace everything! I reused the the black blue and yellow sensors as they were fine and reused the allen bolts aswell! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gogsboy 0 Posted October 28, 2007 I was hoping to get the parts from Ford, not only cause they are cheaper but thats twice I have had the wrong bits from VW. When spoke to Ford guy said come in, no problem will set you straight but wasn't able to go in on the Friday, instead went in Saturday and the guy who was on said he didn't know much about car stuff, only commericals. So I was hoping someone could look at the diagram I uploaded and say you need part 1,2,3,7,8,12 etc Then I can hopefully go in and just point at what I want...then might get somewhere at last :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted October 28, 2007 Much nicer diagram by Ford. Why are VAG so mince all too often? :( Ok, the bits I got were: 1 2 & 5 - (Ford 1032251 and 1032252) that should give you the three main bits of housing 4 6 10 (X3) 18 I did not replace thermostat but recommend you should (3) Hope this helps - it was a saga for me, too. I found Ford's service better than VAG's :shock: :? in that they could get parts next day, whereas VAG took two days. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted October 28, 2007 VW was alright with me next day the parts were in! Good luck getting it sorted my arms are killing me after my problems! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites