eibach springs!!!!!!

[JT 0]

anyone know what eibach lowering springs are like with the original dampers (there brand new) - also anyone recommend a good place to order them from 91 1.8 16v...

[davidwort 0]

OK, if a bit harsh compared to some springs, don't uprate the dampers whatever you do with Eibachs, unles you drive on perfectly smooth roads all the time.

I made that mistake when the original shocks wore out and have been bouncing around ever since, does corner very well though, almost completely flat without uprated roll bars, but I think I'd rather have some cushioning esp. on the rears.

 

I noticed they do make the car quite level when lowered on these springs, looks like some other lowering spring sets (Boge) tend to make the front lower than the back.

 

David.

 

 

anyone know what eibach lowering springs are like with the original dampers (there brand new) - also anyone recommend a good place to order them from 91 1.8 16v...

[JT 0]

thanks, thats what i've been told by some friends too sounds ok too me...

[Pastymuncher 0]

I agree - My brother replaced his VR6's standard shocks and springs with Eibachs and red Konis. The car now looks completely level (evidently an Eibach trade mark as their kits also do it to a MkII golf, but by lowering the front more than the back). The ride however is awful - I have to have my fillings replaced after every ride, and this is with the Konis on the softest setting. It may go round corners nice and flat, but unless the road is also nice and flat, it is very crashy and noisy (especially as the interior is shaking itself loose).

 

I think about doing just the springs every time I walk to the car and see the huge gap in the rear arch on my stock set up, but once I'm in driving it I decide against it.

 

David

[David Winter 0]

Hi. I have a VR6 STORM that was completely standard when bought. I fitted eibach springs and got a new set of the original dampers and stayed with the 15 inch solitude wheels. The handleing is superb and it handles bumbs fine. No crashing or jaring. Some people fit stiffer shocks and run on 17inch wheels and wonder why the ride quality is s****. 17s look cool but are only for smooth roads and race tracks. A lot of the cushioning is in the tyre wall. 16 inch wheels are a better bet if you dont like 15s,heres a picture of my Storm on eibachs. It does level the car without overlowering.

Dave

[JT 0]

thats a nice look thanks for your reply and photo still not sure what to do but will let you guys know once it's done ..........

[pookyvr6 0]

I've just had Eibach springs and Bilstein dampers fitted. Also, replaced all bushes and top mounts.

 

The ride is definately firmer, but not overly harsh. I drive on cobbles every day so I guess I wouldn't notice much. It is however a totally different feel on the open road. After taking about 200 miles to properly bed in, the car is awsome on A roads. Hardly any body-roll and a very light feeling front end. Back end feels solid and you can feel exactly when the inner wheel starts to loose contact. Has a tendancy to oversteer but thats just getting used to the new characteristics.

 

Suspension upgrade is IMO, the best money you can spend on a C. My advice would be don't do it half-cock and get the best kit you can afford. Try out the springs and see how you go. You can always upgrade shocks later.

[vr6storm 0]

pookyvr6 i hope you've also had the suspension geometry done properly too........if you have'nt then get it done asap and then see how good it is

[dubster82 0]

I;ve read on here, mostly from kevhaywire that H&R's are much better ride quality than Eibachs, which i have also heard, WAY more than once that eibachs are too hard.

[Tattie 0]

The guys at Stealth recommended Konis with H&R springs

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I;ve read on here, mostly from kevhaywire that H&R's are much better ride quality than Eibachs, which i have also heard, WAY more than once that eibachs are too hard.

 

Yeah I do prefer the H&Rs to the Eibachs but that's just my choice :lol:

 

One thing to remember though is the Corrado is not a softly setup car to begin with, so you shouldn't expect a better ride quality after fitment of uprated kit. Don't get me wrong, the ride is completely trashed but you will definitely feel those bumps more than before.

 

What you do notice though is vastly improved body control on undulating B roads.

 

I can't really recommend fitting stiffer springs to standard dampers. Stock dampers are designed to control the oscillations of a specific spring poundage. Stiffer springs will have the dampers working overtime and they'll wear out quicker. They will also not supress major bump compression, or control the resultant rebound aswell as an uprated damper.

 

With my Konis on the softest setting, the car just bounces too much, so even they cannot control the H&R properly [on that setting] and the Koni on this setting is WAY stiffer than an OE damper.

I have to crank the Konis up to 1.5 turns to get proper spring control.

 

The beauty of Konis is you can set the damping rate to suit any circumstance. You can compensate for tyre compression, ambient temperature (cold weather stiffens damper oil and bushes) and driving mood.

 

Just my tuppence worth....

 

Kev

[corradovr6sc 0]

I was recommended h@r springs as they are made specifically for the vr6 to handle the extra engine weight whilst eibachs were for all corrados including the lighter 4 cylinder models. Maybe this is why h@r springs suit the vr6 better.

[chuck 0]

I fit eibachs to my 16v, and though the front was fine, it lowered the rear by near 90mm!! :shock: . Eibach took the springs back and checked them and found no problem with them. My C sits fine with standard springs in :? .

They told me a t hte time that they often get people complaining that the rear sits lower than the front, but not ever by this amount.

 

What I'm saying is there may be several different types of spring, and in my experience with them I wasn't a satisfied customer (tho I kept the fronts and got me money back)

[Corvr6 0]

I have to crank the Konis up to 1.5 turns to get proper spring control.

I am having H&R's/Koni's fitted at the moment.Is that 1.5 turns the front and back or what?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I have to crank the Konis up to 1.5 turns to get proper spring control.

I am having H&R's/Koni's fitted at the moment.Is that 1.5 turns the front and back or what?

 

1.5 turns front, 3/4 turn rear.

 

On the rear TAs, move the C clip to the middle slot on the strut body and the ride height will then be even.

 

Kev

[Corvr6 0]

Got my VR back from the garage today,H&R's and Koni's fitted,adjusted as stated above.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the ride comfort had not disappeared. :D

The ride is firmer and potholes are more abrasive but the ride is ok.Good roads are still comfortable.The now negligable sway/roll coupled with rail like cornering has given me the confidence I was looking for in my VR. :twisted:

I am getting 4 wheel alignment done tomorrow,and will probaly get it checked after 1k miles to allow for settling.

Looks awsome too,will have to get some new pics done now.

 

Thanks goes to Kev for advice and inspiration for me taking this path. 8)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Glad you like it! When you've become accustomed to it, you can then consider adding anti-roll bars (my preference is Neuspeed) and take your VR6's handling to the next dimension :lol:

 

Kev

[corradovr6sc 0]

What differences do anti-roll bars make to the handling? Can the standard anti-roll bar be improved upon? Does a rear anti-roll bar make much difference?

[Joe M 0]

Interested in this as well as I think it would be the next stage for mine. (Already have Konis/Eibachs and Powerflex bushes.)

[Corvr6 0]

I have just had my 4 – wheel alignment done,set to factory standard.Front cambers were both out of spec before alignment.I realise the suspension may need some settling in so plan to get them realigned in about 1K miles.

Its too early to say if these are the best settings for my particular set-up,so I will just have to test them out.

 

Current set-up as follows for anyone interested;

 

30mm Lowered H&R springs

Koni sport TA’s all round.

17” Imola 215/45 tyres

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What differences do anti-roll bars make to the handling? Can the standard anti-roll bar be improved upon? Does a rear anti-roll bar make much difference?

 

Yeah it's the rear one that makes the most difference. One reason for this is because the factory one is pathetic. To all intent and purposes it's just a broom handle welded inside the torsion beam. The rear bar is supplementary to this.

 

The factory front bar is a proper bar but a bit on the thin side, it does a reasonable job though, which is why I've just gone for the Neuspeed rear for the time being. I'll add a front as and when required, track days etc.

 

Even with just a rear bar you'll get instant and sharper turn-in and an almost complete abscence of body roll. You just have to watch the tail in the wet though as the tyres don't lean over as much and bite into the tarmac as tenaciously. So long as you're sensible, bigger ARBs pose no threats.

 

Kev

[Corvr6 0]

Well I have been running my VR with its new suspension for a while now and on factory settings for the alignment.The handling is vastly improved whilst cornering, more so in the dry.When wet the car tends to understeer a bit.

Straight line running is smoother,less twitchy.

Might try -1.5 after 1K miles

 

I am now using 1 turn for the front and just half a turn for the rears,whilst the roads are wet/icy and not ideal for hard settings,it also softens the ride for laid back motoring,untill the summer. :evil:

 

Additional info for intested parties: :wink:

 

The shocks are H&R 30mm lower,new £138.06 inc vat.

I aquired them from a forum member who fitted them with oe shocks and removed them soon after to fit coilovers.

The suspension is Koni TA all round,new £360 inc vat/del.

Bought from Xtreme.

[Andy T 0]

What differences do anti-roll bars make to the handling? Can the standard anti-roll bar be improved upon? Does a rear anti-roll bar make much difference?

 

They make a hell of a difference, try driving a mk4 polo (no roll bars front or rear) the body roll is awful, I felt sea-sick!

 

The rear roll bar does make a fair bit of difference too, and needs be of a thickness/stiffness to counteract body roll to the same degree as the thicker roll bar employed at the heavier front end.

 

Roll bars work by trying to keep both sides of the supsension at the same height by means of a link bar under torsional force, which hence reduces the tilting of the car to one side during cornering.

 

I'd imagine the Corrado has quite a stiff roll bar setup as it corners very 'flat', but of course this is also due to the spring/damper setup.

 

Anyone uprated the roll-bars on a Corrado?

[Andy T 0]

Oops I didn't see the posts on page 2, so my reply looks a little out of place!

 

kevhaywire, I was looking at the rear anti-roll bar the other day, it does look exactly the same as the Mk2 GTI 8v roll bar!