ReekieVR 0 Posted May 3, 2007 Late Vr with leaky housing and dubious temp readings. Want to replace the three temp senders nr the thermostat, the one on the rad, plus all the thermostat housing and bits which will surely break when i take them off. From similar threads i have compiled the following list: 21 121 119A - x1 - Housing to cylinderhead seal N101 392 01 - x2 - Crackpipe to lower connection socket and two thermostat housing seals N901 368 02 - x1 - Thermostat seal N903 168 02 - x3 - Sender units o rings 021 121 117A - thermo housing 021 121 121A - ? 021 121 113D - ? 075 121 113D - ? 025 121 142 - ? N904 762 01 - ? N014 782 1 - ? N011 524 23 - ? N014 703 5 - ? N100 922 01 - ? 3 temp senders in block - Black - 3rd radiator fan speed (120 deg trigger ) - 357 919 369F, Blue - Engine ECU fuelling - 025 906 041A, Yellow - ( Dash temp guage but new one may be black ) # ??? 1 temp sender in rad: # ???? As you can see i dont know what many of these parts are. Can anyone confim the part descriptions and if i need them all for the job. Also, can i just get all of this from ECP or is a trip to the stealers required ? Ta Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted May 3, 2007 im not sure what the vr stat housing is like but i would certainly get a genuine one, any of the patern part coolant flanges or stat housings i have had from ecp have been garbage and have deformed and leaked after about a week. the blue temp sender from ecp also died after 6 months. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted May 3, 2007 I've got most of the VAG thermo housing bits still in boxes somewhere if you want them for a reasonable price :) I'll have a look to see if I've got them in the flat this evening. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted May 3, 2007 It's definately worth getting the bits from Ford (unless Stinkus has everything you need ;) )- you'll save a fair bit. For example, the blue temp sender is around £6 more from VW! I'll post up some Ford part numbers tonight for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted May 3, 2007 Dinkus - that would be spiffing of you ! :) So just get everything else from VAG then ? BTW - from the job thread - you have my dream job ! Bast... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted May 3, 2007 That would be brill CazzaVR. I will attempt a how-to for the wiki too. It must be my turn to do one and it looks like a relatively easy procedure for a novice like me ~! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted May 3, 2007 No probs :) Done mine recently, and the only prob I had was removing the allen bolts that attach the coilpack and the stat housing. All of them rounded off. Irwin bolt grippers got them off in a few seconds- wish I'd bought them before starting the job! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted May 3, 2007 I'll have to check this evening. I have a feeling the parts may have disappeared into the dark depths of my garage, in which case you don't stand a chance :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted May 3, 2007 Right, these are the Ford bits I got: 1022692 - stat/head seal £1.59 ea x1 1018807 - crackpipe/stat seal £0.85 ea x2 7198663 - sensor seal £0.67 ea x3 1032251 - stat housing £8.35 x1 1032252 - stat housing £8.20 x1 (can't remember which is which, but these are the two smaller housing parts- I bought the large housing part which houses the sensors off Ebay ;) ) 1428105 - screw panhead £0.58 x2 1018814 - screw socket HD £0.53 x2 1018816 - screw socket HD £1.18 x3 1669965 - coolant sensor £8.01 x1 Hope this helps! Didn't need all the screws in the end as some of the old ones were still good. I also didn't replace the two other sensors or the crackpipe, as they were all fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted May 3, 2007 Ok, sadly it would appear that they're lost somewhere in the garage. Probably in the same place that my soldering gear is actually... :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted May 3, 2007 http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55166&highlight= This might help. I keep meaning to put it on the wiki.... (note to self, speak to Andi) :lol: As CazzaVR said, be careful with the allen head bolts, I was lucky with mine but you do see them rounding out. If I can help at all let me know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
too hot 0 Posted May 3, 2007 CazzaVR, Excellent work mate,I am going to attempt the same job this weekend and that list of Ford parts will make things much easier.Did you tell them it was for a Corrado VR6 or did you make up some story about a Galaxy :lol: :lol: :?: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted May 4, 2007 Ok, sadly it would appear that they're lost somewhere in the garage. Probably in the same place that my soldering gear is actually... :( No Worries Dinkus. Ta for lookin. Well, i ordered the Neuspeed low temp thermostat and the 180 Degree 3 Pole Fan Switch from Awsome. Am i correct in thinking the fanswitch is the one that goes into the radiator and that it doesnt need the convertor kit ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted May 4, 2007 too hot, just told them it was for a Corrado and that the engine was the same. Parts came in next day, which is a lot quicker than my locl VW! Also used a Neuspeed stat. Oil temps never go over 100C, water is usually around 70C. They used to be oil 110C max and water 90C max. Has made a real difference! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted May 22, 2007 ok - im half way thru the job and have a couple of questions: 1. the nuespeed radiator switch i just bought, has three points in a row. The plug on the car has them in a triangle. How do i alter the car plug to get them to fit ( which wire is which ? ), or is there an adapter ? 2. while i have easy access to the starter motor, is there any maint i can do to prolong its life / performance ? Job had been pretty easy so far. Unfortunatly most of the parts i have already bought appear to be fine and the bit i didnt buy ( the bit with the senders in ) looks the worst ! 3. Have spotted several cracks on the coilpack after a good clean. Most internet threads advise using JB Weld to seal the plastic parts of the coilpack, but i cant find any. Anyway, when i do, do i cover ALL the plastic bits or just the cracks ? 4. Can i unscrew the 4 ( why are there only 4??! ) metal strips ontop of the coilpack to get better access for epoxying ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattkh 0 Posted May 22, 2007 Hi Well done. Hope you are taking some photos especially of the cracks in the coilpack. As regards the starter a good idea to disconnect the thick cables and give the connectors a good scrub with wire wool and vaseline. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted May 23, 2007 Mmmm interesting. Why Vasaline ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gogsboy 0 Posted November 8, 2007 Right, these are the Ford bits I got: 1032251 - stat housing £8.35 x1 1032252 - stat housing £8.20 x1 (can't remember which is which, but these are the two smaller housing parts- I bought the large housing part which houses the sensors off Ebay ;) ) Anyone know if Ford garages can charge different prices from other Ford garages, I finally got hold of housing bits and bobs and the two parts about were priced at near £12 plus vat. The main housing was £24 plus vat, thats the same price as VW is I remember correctly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted November 8, 2007 4. Can i unscrew the 4 ( why are there only 4??! ) metal strips ontop of the coilpack to get better access for epoxying ? Yup... The 4 strips come from the amplifier in the coilpack, there are actually 3 coilpacks in the unit, each supplying sparks to 2 cylinders, this is a "wasted spark" ignition system and the 2nd cylinder gets a spark which does not ignit anything, as it is on it's exhaust stroke rather than compression. The 4 strips are an earth and positive to the 3 packs I believe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ReekieVR 0 Posted November 9, 2007 Cheers Toad - although i completed this job around two months ago ! :lol: I have heard of wasted spark before. Sounds interesting. So its just 1 cylinder which ends up getting a spark on the blow part of the cycle? Is that just due to the order at which each of the 6 cylinders reach tdc ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites