16V Engine Mounts

[CrazyDave 0]

This may be a daft question, but are Golf 3 16v engine mounts the same as Corrado ones?

 

My reason for asking is that Corrado mounts seem to be twice the price of Golf 3.

[CrazyDave 0]

Ah well, I guess I'll answer my own question with mk2 16v mounts then!

[Yandards 0]

Ah well, I guess I'll answer my own question with mk2 16v mounts then!

 

:)

 

Think the mk 3 ones are different but as you say the mk 2 16v ones are the same.

 

Mind you expensive things, worth getting the solid front mount at half the price and its a one fit/forget option too.

[Goldie 2]

Ive got this lot up for grabs..

 

[CrazyDave 0]

Ive got this lot up for grabs..

 

Michael, go easy I'm a 16v virgin. What am I looking at?

[Goldie 2]

If im perfectly honest im not too sure myself, i believe some of these bits are solid mounts, i think we need an expert to clarify though..

[davidwort 0]

front (right one in pic) and rear (left one in pic) engine mounting brackets and the gearbox mounting bracket is the one in the centre, the actual rubber/hydraulic mountings for each need adding to these!

[Goldie 2]

Thanks for that mate, glad someone knew..

[vwdeviant 0]

So moving away from Goldies "Shny tat" (only joking mate).....

 

What mounts are needed? Rado specific or Golf Mk2 16v?

 

Yans you mention a solid front mount?

 

Do they differ from KR-9a too?

[davidwort 0]

So moving away from Goldies "Shny tat" (only joking mate).....

 

What mounts are needed? Rado specific or Golf Mk2 16v?

 

Yans you mention a solid front mount?

 

Do they differ from KR-9a too?

 

golf2/jetta 16v and golf 2 G60, passat 16v, corrado 16v (1.8 and 2.0) G60 and 2.0 8v all have the same front mount VAG part no. 357 199 279B

 

rear is 535 199 262 (from all the above listed)

gearbox is 357 199 381C (from all the above listed + caddy and polo)

 

Only buy a FEBI or genuine VAG rear engine mount though, GSF pattern part for instance makes the whole car vibrate at idle, IMO the genuine front mounts could do with being a bit beefier, particularly if you have a modified engine. Pattern parts are OK at the front on a standard car(poss excluding G60) but as that is the mount that takes the most strain genuine VAG is a good investment but proably near the cost of a Vibratechnics one by now.

[KADVR6 0]

i thought i was right Dave,

[CrazyDave 0]

Cheers David, as always top information and part numbers to complete the package! Looks like a set of VAG mk2 16v mounts it is then. Just been to the dealer for a cam belt and tensioner, as it's done 141k and already had a belt at 80k.

 

Karl, didn't doubt you for a minute mate. :)

 

Michael, those bits would end up being the shinest on the whole car. Just you wait till you see it in the flesh. The pictures in my gallery are very kind to the old gal!

 

Arn't the solid mounts a bit harsh?

[CrazyDave 0]

Well, I finally remembered to ask the dealer for engine mount prices. Front and rear hydro mounts are £120 each :shock: :shock: :shock: , gearbox mount is £35. That would almost double the value of the car!

 

Mk2 prices are the same, and so is the part number.

 

Looks like it's GSF, and put up with a little vibration or maybe look at Vibratechnic mounts.

[Dec 1]

Get some Febi / Bilstein mounts from here, afaik they are cheaper than GSF anyway! http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_other.php

[davidwort 0]

Get some Febi / Bilstein mounts from here, afaik they are cheaper than GSF anyway! http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_other.php

 

absolutely, I've got a rear FEBI 16v mount from AVS, much better than the GSF equivalent and slightly cheaper, front GSF mount has lasted 5 years or so on mine, but for that one I think I'll invest in a vibratechnics next time it does go.

I think it was crasher that said he'd used lots of FEBI rear mounts with no problems, VW are taking the proverbial with those parts.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Dave. Use diesel spec MK2 mounts from GSF. The OE hyrdo mounts are absolutely useless and way, way overpriced. Just my advice as a former MK2 16V owner ;-)

[davidwort 0]

Dave. Use diesel spec MK2 mounts from GSF. The OE hyrdo mounts are absolutely useless and way, way overpriced. Just my advice as a former MK2 16V owner ;-)

 

 

GSF supply exactly the same part for the mk2 front diesel mount as they do for a 16v mk2 (and Passat or Corrado 16v), they may have been different in the past?

The genuine VAG front mount parts are both hydraulic but have different part numbers, I guess the diesel one is slightly tougher (unlike 8v petrol mk2's which are just rubber)

Diesel and auto 16v's share the same part.

[CrazyDave 0]

Thanks Guys, great advice as always! :D

[CrazyDave 0]

Well, the parts arrived from vwspares after a couple of days. I went for the standard 16v mounts in the end, about £100 for all three. Got out under the C today, fitted all three mounts in about an hour :) . Easy job really.

 

I did the front first, bit of a fiddle to get the engine high enough, but just keep jacking until the engine stop moving. Undo the top bolt by squeezing a long extension down through the fan housing and a 15mm socket. Two bolts underneath, one 17mm the other 13mm. Then just enough room to squeeze the mount out without having to unbolt the bracket. Put the new mount in and finger tighten the bolts. Front mount was cream-crackered! The top had broken away and the stud had about 2" of movement. So that's why the inlet pipework was touching the bulkhead when accelerating and the strange clunk as I took up drive!

 

Did the rear engine next. Took the inlet plastic pipes off to get better access. Three bolts on top of the mounting, using a long extension, 13mm. Jacked the OS front up to get underneath. Then a short extension and big bar to release the two bolts underneath, 15mm. One has access through the hole in the wishbone. The other is near the steering rack joint. Lift the engine at the rear OS corner of the block, it has a machined hole to get a little bottle jack on. New mount in place and refit all the bolts, just finger tight. Inlet pipes back on.

 

Gearbox mount next. Car back on the floor. Working above, loosen the 17mm top bolt and remove. Two 13mm bolt into the subframe. Lift the gearbox on a jack, carefully near the G-box sump plug (use a block of wood so as not to damage the casing) enough to get the mount out. Fit the new one, checking the orientation of the top pad of the mount. Fit all the screws finger tight. Drop the jack down.

 

Get everything clear and start the engine and idle for 30 seconds. This will settle the engine into the mounts. Turn the engine off, and tighten all the bolts properly. Job done 8)

 

Car feels much much better now, no clunking noises when pulling away and nice and quiet.