Need Help quickly...Its broken again! Coolant/radiator?

[Jim Bowen 1]

Ha! Doesn't seem like its been back on road for 5mins and something else has broken, pulled up at work today and noticed some steam coming out from under bonnet.

 

lifted bonnet and yep, coolant is leaking out again, not sure where from yet, got some pics on the way......

 

its at the top of the radiator i think, looks like a plastic thing a hose fits onto. Although water has sprayed about so going to check once its all dried up again

[Jim Bowen 1]

 

not sure if its actually a hose or not?

[pete_griff 0]

wait for the car to cool down before refilling the coolant, but once it's refilled, start the car and watch under the bonnet and you should be able to see where it's coming out - looks like it may be the elbow on the top of the radiator (as i think these are prone to going), but in all honesty it's pretty difficult to tell just from photos.

 

look yourself with the engine running (you may have to wait for it to get hot before it starts to leak). if you still can't source it yourself, then get it pressure tested at any half decent garage and you will see it squirt out.

 

there's always something with rado's isn't there :)

[Jim Bowen 1]

i think your right, i can't see any hoses split, is hard to tell where the water has come from as its sprayed everywhere, but it does seem like that plastic elbow on radiator

 

not sure what to do now, do i risk driving it home?

 

guy at work said something about driving with the expansion cap off?

[pete_griff 0]

i think your right, i can't see any hoses split, is hard to tell where the water has come from as its sprayed everywhere, but it does seem like that plastic elbow on radiator

 

not sure what to do now, do i risk driving it home?

 

guy at work said something about driving with the expansion cap off?

 

wait until it's cold before you refill it (as you risk damaging things if you put cold water into a hot engine), then see how much it leaks. if you have a long drive home then i wouldn't risk it (give mr AA man a shout about an hour before you finish work!) as cooking an engine really is horrible. if you've only got a short drive then, you could try it - obviously keep a very close eye on the temp gauge. if it does get too warm then you will have to stop and wait for it to cool right down again before you can refill it/drive it any further; and trust me that's a horrible game, as a 20 minute journey will take you at least a couple of hours!

 

i wouldn't bother driving with the expansion cap off, as you will just risk loosing more water out of the top anyway and the coolant will boil more easily (the whole point of the expansion cap is to keep the pressure as water boils at a higher temp when under pressure-the reason for the cap!)

 

basically if it's a long drive i wouldn't even think about it, if it's short, then you will have to think about whether you can risk it or not, depending on distance/leakage!

[Jim Bowen 1]

its about 16 miles journey, i think i'm going to try and make it home at lunch time.

 

i'd rather break down then instead of rush hour later

 

this is the 3rd time i'd had coolant leak :lol:

[Walesy 0]

If it keeps springing leaks you might want to look into why mate :eek:

[pete_griff 0]

fair enough, but be warned you MUST stop if it gets too hot - DO NOT keep driving it as it creeps up towards the red as you will be likely to do damage. like i said, it's a horrible game waiting for it to cool down before you can set off again. 16 miles seems a bit of a long way - i'd check that it's only a small leak before you leave otherwise you will be twiddling your thumbs on the side of the road!

[Jim Bowen 1]

If it keeps springing leaks you might want to look into why mate :eek:

 

 

i have assumed things are just getting old, the 1st one was the thermostat housing, they said it just fell apart as they took it off, 2nd one was the coolant hose to bulkhead which i think we disturbed when we were jacking engine up and down to get to the steering rack.

 

the thing is with RAC is i don't like them trying to bodge a repair to get home, i'd rather it just get towed

[pete_griff 0]

you can just ask then to tow it mate - explain that it's the elbow on the top of the rad (i.e a part that he won't be able to bodge) and just tell him that you want it towed home and you will get it sorted yourself - if you have relay (or whatever it is they call it), then they should do that for you no questions asked!

 

i was with the aa (now switched to rac) and i knew my gearbox on one of my old cars was about to go, so i rang them up, said it had died and that i wanted it transported home on the back of a low-loader. the bloke came out and was really sound about it, i actually drove the car onto the back of the low loader after explaining the plan to him, then got it transported 200 miles, at which point, i drove it off the low-loader and then 3 miles down the road to my mum's where i swapped the gearbox that weekend!

 

as long as you don't get some arsehole of a bloke come to help you, they will normally do anything to help you

[Walesy 0]

If it keeps springing leaks you might want to look into why mate :eek:

 

 

i have assumed things are just getting old, the 1st one was the thermostat housing, they said it just fell apart as they took it off, 2nd one was the coolant hose to bulkhead which i think we disturbed when we were jacking engine up and down to get to the steering rack.

 

the thing is with RAC is i don't like them trying to bodge a repair to get home, i'd rather it just get towed

 

It could well be a co-incidence mate, but there could also be a problem in that theres a build up of pressure hence as soon as you sort one leak out another one starts elsewhere :eek:

[Toad 0]

It might be something nefarious, but the car is getting to the age where components start to fail.

 

Have a look at a gruven parts alloy rad neck, won't ever crack again. Might be similar waiting time to a vw unit. Strictly dubs sell them in the UK.

[Jim Bowen 1]

bit of an update, topped up about 1 inch of water, made it home, car was fine on way home, no high temps, no steam, and when got home there was no sign of a leak.

 

popped into local garage and we found a spot on radiator with loads of pink stuff on it (G12) i guess it has formed a crusty pie type layer (looked like something from ghostbusters) and sealed itself again.

 

but guess i need a new radiator now

[Jim Bowen 1]

may be a silly question, but why do i keep thinking the corrado has two rads?

 

is that right?

[Walesy 0]

The VR6 has two fans mate, that might be what you're thinking of ...

[Jim Bowen 1]

is it a hard/expensive job to change the rad? how much of car do i have to remove?

 

is it worth trying to upgrade the rad in some form? or not really?

[Toad 0]

The elbow seperates from the radiator, if it is the elbow(quite likely as they get brittle), then you can buy it seperately.

 

There isn't an upgrade to the rad. AFAIK

[Jim Bowen 1]

nah, i don't think its the elbow anymore, deffo looks like a hole in the rad now, think the water had just puddled there as there is a dip

[Rick 0]

You've got aircon too so the condensor kind of counts as a radiator.

[Jim Bowen 1]

is it best to get a VW radiator from VW, or can i go elsewhere and save some money, don't fancy a 2nd hand one

[Goldie 2]

Radiator is a front of the car off job, probably can be done with it on but if you got the aircon condensor infornt of that it will just be as easy to take it off. Taken nice and steady its a good half days work..

[CazzaVR 0]

Did mine a few months ago. Took an afternoon, and I'm not very mechanically minded.

 

I would get a rad from VW- try to get the Parts Club discount ;) and it should be around £120. Also get all new bolts etc for the rad fixtures, slam panel etc, and of course, plenty of G12+.

 

The job is pretty self explanatory really. Take out the fogs and indicators. Then undo the 4 large bumper bolts which are at the end of the crossmember. Mine were really difficult- must have spent over an hour on these! Lube them up the night before and get a decent breaker bar (which I didn't have). Once these are undone, the bumper just slides out. Put some dust sheets or something underneath to stop it getting scratched if you drop it. Then, you just need to unbolt and remove the slam panel etc. Really straightforward once you get started. Worth keeping the old elbow as a spare.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

The elbow is a known weak point, there's a seam running along its length and that splits. New ones are cheap and easy to fit, 2 small bolts. Make sure to order the O ring at the same time. It's certainly worth trying that before spending a lot more on a radiator.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[CazzaVR 0]

Also worth checking the plastic part of the rad where the elbow attaches too. This split on mine. Unfortunately it means a new rad :(

[Jim Bowen 1]

Did mine a few months ago. Took an afternoon, and I'm not very mechanically minded.

 

I would get a rad from VW- try to get the Parts Club discount ;) and it should be around £120. Also get all new bolts etc for the rad fixtures, slam panel etc, and of course, plenty of G12+.

 

The job is pretty self explanatory really. Take out the fogs and indicators. Then undo the 4 large bumper bolts which are at the end of the crossmember. Mine were really difficult- must have spent over an hour on these! Lube them up the night before and get a decent breaker bar (which I didn't have). Once these are undone, the bumper just slides out. Put some dust sheets or something underneath to stop it getting scratched if you drop it. Then, you just need to unbolt and remove the slam panel etc. Really straightforward once you get started. Worth keeping the old elbow as a spare.

 

nice one, thats great help :clap:

 

i literally just bought a snap on breaker bar and sockets two days ago, at least i get to use it now i spose....

 

 

is it worth getting some samcos while i'm there? are there some hard to get to hoses that i could reach while rad is off alot easier?