KR engine help

[mbradbrook 0]

Hi there,

 

I haven't got a problem with my Corrado but i have with my mk2 16v Golf GTI! I bought the car a couple of months back - the body and interior are excellent but the engine needs a bit of work. To start with the engine wouldn't idle but i have fixed this with a new isv temp sender and new isv. It now idles perfectly but the problem i have is starting the car after being switched off for greater than 3-4 hrs. The engine turns over perfectly and it fires on the first turn but doesn't catch. It then turns over for around 10sec before finally catching. I have checked the cold start valve and this works ok. I was thinking that the fuel accumulator may be duff but i don't want to fork out £100 unless i'm sure. The car starts fine when it is warm. I have checked and cleaned up all the earths under the bonnet.The other things i was thinking about were thw WUR, dodgy metering head or leaking injectors - what do you think?

 

Some help would be really appreciated. I have posted the problem on the Club GTI forum a few weeks back but they seem to have run out of ideas!

 

Cheers

 

Matt

[boost monkey 0]

Where are you based? I seem to have been through most KR starting / running issues getting my Corrado going! :bad-words:

[Goldie 2]

My Golf was a bit like this until i fitted new Ht leads and distributor and set the timing correctly...

[mbradbrook 0]

Hi there - i'm based in Bristol. Forgot to mention that i've also fitted a new distributor as the old one was leaking oil everywhere. I haven't checked the timing since - just marked the position of the old one and fitted the new one in the same position.

[Yandards 0]

Not the accumulator as this is an aid to hot starting not cold.

 

Both the thermotime switch and the cold start valve should be on for a period of around 4 secs at an ambient temperature of 10 deg C, do this by removing the plug to the thermotime switch and connecting a mechanics test bulb (screwdriver thing) then operate the starter motor and observe the bulb.

 

To check the WUR, remove the HT coil lead then remove the plug to the WUR. Connect the test lamp again and crank the engine, bulb should illuminate. The heater element of the WUR should show 20-26 ohms resistance.

 

Next question is the throttle idle microswitch working ok?

 

To check remove plug on TB and connect a multimeter, pins 1+2 = inifinity, 2+3 = 0 ohms resistance. With the throttle fully open pins 1+2 = 0 ohms and 2+3 = inifinity.

[boost monkey 0]

yeah give the timing a go.

 

if you can't be bothered to try the search, there's a thread I started when trying to get the car running. tons of people have uploaded wiring diagrams and things to check on the KR, so it might be a really good place for you to have a read?

 

hth,

 

Jon.

[boost monkey 0]

I've resistance tested the 3 WURs i've collected for my KR all off the car and they come in at ~230 Ohms across the electrical connectors. I know one of these works so i'm guessing that value is correct...Yan?

[mbradbrook 0]

All good stuff - thanks for the quick response. I've just bought a timing light so i'll give that a go. Quick question - which plug lead do i connect the inductive pick up to when using the timing light? The second HT lead has got an orange clip on it - what does this mean?

[Goldie 2]

Use number one, i think the gun will have instructions giving you a guide.

 

YOu can set it up to run on super or normal unleaded depending on what you use....

[boost monkey 0]

the orange clip is probably just to clip the lead to something else, a neatness thing.

[mbradbrook 0]

Hi there - just a bit of an update for you. I've just checked the timing and i had to turn the dizzy clockwise about 5mm before the markers all lined up. I think that this has retarded the ignition. The idle has now risen so i have turned this back down with the idle screw. I have noticed that the idle now hunts a bit now though - what would cause this? I'm going to wait until tomorrow morning to try starting it from cold - hopefully this may have fixed it but i don't want to speak too soon!

 

Cheers

 

Matt

[Yandards 0]

Hi there - just a bit of an update for you. I've just checked the timing and i had to turn the dizzy clockwise about 5mm before the markers all lined up. I think that this has retarded the ignition. The idle has now risen so i have turned this back down with the idle screw. I have noticed that the idle now hunts a bit now though - what would cause this? I'm going to wait until tomorrow morning to try starting it from cold - hopefully this may have fixed it but i don't want to speak too soon!

 

Cheers

 

Matt

 

I'm guessing the idle is set to the correct 1000 +/- 50 rpm that the KR needs?

 

Lumpy idle can be a few things, the mixture might be off slightly as they tend to wander on the KRs with use, you need a really long allen key that goes into the metering head on the airbox to adjust it.

 

More likely however is the idle stab valve, take it off and give it a clean with some carb/brake cleaner. It is probably on its way out but if it is ok for a while after the clean then starts doing it again then it will be the ISV.

[Toad 0]

i'd guess the injectors are probably leaking a bit. Mine used to do that.

 

Have you got the temp sensor on the corner of the head next to the oil filler? if it's missing, your under bonnet temps when sat up might be a bit high and the fuel is being vapourised in the injector lines, the sensor controls the fan after run.

[mbradbrook 0]

Started the car from stone cold this morning and it started on first turn of the key! It only hunts when it is fully warmed up by about +/- 100rpm. It has a brand new ISV on it so that should be ok. I suspect that the mixture needs adjusting first of all which i presume means a trip to the garage. I'm not sure what you mean about the sensor near the oil filler - there isn't one (its a 1.8 KR engine).

 

Thanks for all your help - i'm just glad it starts properly now! :D

[bcstudent 0]

My Corrado used to do more-or-less the same thing when I got it - perfect cold starting, but wouldn't start when warm without applying some throttle (and even then it'd sometimes run on three for a bit), or winding in over for ages. One set of injectors later and it was no more trouble.