fla 9 Posted May 5, 2008 Due to my engine mishap which has cost me a fair amount of money and time, I dont want anyone else making the same error that i have. If you have a VR and are deleting the existing oil to water cooler to replace it with a sandwich plate, it is VITAL that the extension bolt is fitted the right way around. The bolt has a long and short threaded end, with some oil circulation holes in towards one end. The SHORT threaded end must go into the oil cap and you can check this by confirming the oil circulation holes are nearest the cap. If you dont do this, oil will NOT circulate beyond the cooler and will damage your cylinder head and possibly your block. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ensure you get it right. It 'does' matter and those who have fitted it without noting the orientation may have been lucky with fitting it properly first time. Just wanted to share this and i hope it doesnt put anyone off fitting a mocal. BTW, my oil pressure lamp did not come on, nor did i get temps higher than 104C. Just the now notorious tapping noise. I didnt take any pics of my cap, but i'll try and get some new ones next weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 9, 2008 Holy Ping Pong balls, is that what caused your engine to self destruct? :shock: Thanks for the top tip! I must admit, I never paid attention to that when I fitted mine either! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted May 9, 2008 I must admit I was a bit annoyed that these didn't come with fitting instructions. Maybe it is different on the VR's but on the g60 kits you have to cut the oil housing thread etc.. I never looked for any holes or the like when I fitted mine. :confused4: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve @ 0 Posted May 9, 2008 The standard bolt and cap, the holes are near the cap end so its pretty straight forward.(not having a go by the way 8) ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted May 9, 2008 The standard bolt and cap, the holes are near the cap end so its pretty straight forward.(not having a go by the way 8) ) yeah yeah i'm putting u on my pooh list.pistols at dawn. :wink: Seriously though It simple when u know but I never knew to look is all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G Charged 0 Posted May 9, 2008 Maybe it is different on the VR's but on the g60 kits you have to cut the oil housing thread etc.. :confused4: didnt want to cut anything incase i want to revert back to standard at a later date, so i got the oil filter housing threaded bar from a mk1 golf i did have a look at my g60 one as im in the process of fitting mine and i cant see any way to go wrong, it only goes on one way and and the thermostatic bit doesnt matter which way the pipes go to the cooler, so i dont think the g60 boys need to worry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted May 10, 2008 Maybe it is different on the VR's but on the g60 kits you have to cut the oil housing thread etc.. :confused4: didnt want to cut anything incase i want to revert back to standard at a later date, so i got the oil filter housing threaded bar from a mk1 golf i did have a look at my g60 one as im in the process of fitting mine and i cant see any way to go wrong, it only goes on one way and and the thermostatic bit doesnt matter which way the pipes go to the cooler, so i dont think the g60 boys need to worry. :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Karoliz 0 Posted June 25, 2009 Wow :shock: , I have to admit, that I didin't pay attention to this, when fitted sandwich plate. But it seems, that I've have done it right, because no problems even after track days (though on track oil temp reaches ~140)... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimDoc 0 Posted April 29, 2010 Gonna be fitting one of these in the next week - anyone fancy taking some pics to show how it should and shouldnt be done?? Not to sure by the description above. T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
poll250 0 Posted June 2, 2010 Is it ok to fit the sandwhich plate with the outlets facing downwards? When pointing upwards my hoses seem to rub on the crack pipe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harryc 0 Posted September 6, 2010 Where do people get their sdandwhich plates, ebay? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattPc 0 Posted September 25, 2010 I found Burton performance to be the cheapest for snadwich plates and oil cooler radiators. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haris 0 Posted October 15, 2010 Anyone able to shed a bit more light on how I would go about fitting one to a VR6, have people changed over from the paper filter? and got rid of the oil housing? And what exactly do you need to do with the oil cooler already on there and the pipes and sensors related to it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wy906 0 Posted February 22, 2011 Hi! There was a thread with discussions not long ago with regard to Mocal oil cooler / winter engine/oil temp not warm enough……. what was the conclusion of that? What’s the recommendation for ‘winter use’ if I was to fit an oil cooler to my VR6? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 22, 2011 The conclusion was look at the cooling system before fitting a Mocal cooler because with a 100% tip top cooling system, the oil should run at normal temps. 'Normal' being mid 96 - 102 on a motorway cruise. Mine used to run at 114 @ 80mph but after replacing the radiator, water pump (main) and heat exchanger, it now runs 96-98 at the same speed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wy906 0 Posted February 22, 2011 Thanks Kev! :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
poll250 0 Posted April 1, 2011 Could someone just confirm. Should this side of the sandwich plate go up against the block? or the other way around!? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 2, 2011 other side goes against the block - has a rubber seal on it. Your oil cap will have the other seal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark261288 10 Posted January 21, 2013 Am i right in thinking that it must be circulating ok if your oil cooler rad is getting warm pretty quickly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted January 21, 2013 Yes, because if it was not circulating your rad would not get hot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
culshaw 1 Posted May 22, 2019 I reckon mines not on right, I don't have an extension bolt but a spigot and an alloy cap. I had the engine on for around 8-10 mins and the pipes and rad were cold. I might swap it back to the original bolt as it's the metal one on my. Vr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted May 23, 2019 which bolt do you have? Its the circulating holes that are critical. Can you post a pic? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
culshaw 1 Posted May 23, 2019 Yep, I have this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOCAL-3-4UNF-X-2INCH-SPIGOT-OIL-COOLER-SANDWICH-PLATE-CENTRE-BOLT-951-AFR/152780508286?hash=item23926d8c7e:g:Ay0AAOSwl9RZ6bwu plus https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOCAL-M20-MO1F-REMOTE-OIL-FILTER-ALLOY-CAP-MUSHROOM-SANDWICH-PLATE-AVF/122639114647?hash=item1c8ddc6197:g:ussAAOSwcUBYUrAs Advice was to use the spigot and alloy cap. My original exchange bolt is metal so I *think* I can use it, but will investigate more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites