Cressa 44 Posted June 12, 2020 Oo I like that insurance quote, so will put them on my list to ring. That is a shocking wait for the car..... and i hope it does come back soon. Photos would help you get through the wait, so that is bad of them. Time to turn up at the garage 👊 . If you dont get the answers you want, then take the car back. Plenty of other people wanting your hard earned cash . Hopefully it will not come to that. Good luck with the valvers MOT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted June 12, 2020 5 hours ago, Cressa said: Oo I like that insurance quote, so will put them on my list to ring. That is a shocking wait for the car..... and i hope it does come back soon. Photos would help you get through the wait, so that is bad of them. Time to turn up at the garage 👊 . If you dont get the answers you want, then take the car back. Plenty of other people wanting your hard earned cash . Hopefully it will not come to that. Good luck with the valvers MOT yeah i was pretty pleased with it - i upped the value to £3k as well if i hadnt seen the end result of what the painter can produce i would be very worried. it is the failure promises that is the annoying part & has really let him down not much i can do really but just spoke with him & paint is due to be going on early next week also looking like monday for news on the 16v, there goes my drive out on the weekend lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 25, 2020 well it has been a long time coming but the day finally arrived, typical its bloody raining weather & work has stopped me going over it fully but initial thoughts are very good indeed - a couple of quick pics had to be posted 😄 i think i may be needing to raise the coilovers a tad though as with the Kamei X1 kit on the front splitter is kinda low lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 25, 2020 oddly, my central locking now seems to be making a buzzing from the drivers rear wheel arch area in the boot - which i cant find a sequence to stop it it buzzes as soon as either lock or unlock & only seems to go off when i put ignition on anyone have any pointers before i pull the carpet out pls? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted August 25, 2020 Check your battery voltage first with the car not running Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 25, 2020 6 minutes ago, 1xshaunx1 said: Check your battery voltage first with the car not running thanks shaun - why though out of interest? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted August 25, 2020 That is low as well by the way. Don’t think that front spoiler would look like that for long on the front of my car 😂😂 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 25, 2020 Just now, 1xshaunx1 said: That is low as well by the way. Don’t think that front spoiler would look like that for long on the front of my car 😂😂 yeah i know - i wasnt sure how low it would sit with the new front splitter on - think a 5mm raise on the coilovers should suffice......but i like it that low LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted August 25, 2020 I think the relays and pump struggle if your battery is on its way out or near flat especially if it’s not used much Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 25, 2020 3 minutes ago, 1xshaunx1 said: I think the relays and pump struggle if your battery is on its way out or near flat especially if it’s not used much ahhh i see - i thought you might say something along those lines. thanks i will drop the battery on charge & go from there much appreciated m8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted August 25, 2020 That's where the pump is - sandwiched in a styrofoam casing. Could be that you have a minor leak somewhere so it's continuing to run.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 25, 2020 9 minutes ago, seanl82 said: That's where the pump is - sandwiched in a styrofoam casing. Could be that you have a minor leak somewhere so it's continuing to run.... thanks m8, will dig in there if i need to i can get it to shut off but struggled to find a pattern to it its been in the body shop for 6 months so will charge the battery 1st as all was ok with it before it went it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted August 25, 2020 If the doors and / or hatch were removed you may have an air / vacuum leak? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted August 25, 2020 I was going to suggest a possible leak. Kamei looks great, but wont stay like that for long with a speed bump. Always great to see your posts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 26, 2020 18 hours ago, Dox said: If the doors and / or hatch were removed you may have an air / vacuum leak? thanks dox, appreciate the input - i know the doors have both definitely been off but dont thing the rear hatch was (just the glass & trim out etc) i did figure out that the buzzing stops after a couple of minutes last night but it was virtually dark by the time i got home im doubting the body shop charged my battery though so have taken it out & put on this morning, will go from there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 26, 2020 17 hours ago, Cressa said: I was going to suggest a possible leak. Kamei looks great, but wont stay like that for long with a speed bump. Always great to see your posts thanks m8 - i am trying to be more active on here again after a tough couple of years 😄 yeah im doubting it will go over a speed bump as it is lol im thinking 5mm as dont really want to go up 10mm - anyone know if there is an average height to a speed bump? lol i now need to make a list of to-do items before i think about getting the interior back in Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 27, 2020 ok so i checked the central locking issue with a fully charged battery today & no difference, still buzzing dox, cressa or anyone have any pointers on checking / fixing vacuum leaks? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted August 27, 2020 2 minutes ago, g0ldf1ng3r said: ok so i checked the central locking issue with a fully charged battery today & no difference, still buzzing dox, cressa or anyone have any pointers on checking / fixing vacuum leaks? If the doors have recently been off, it would be at these connections that I would be checking. Unfortunately a pain to get to. I disconnected my vacuum lines totally from within the doors at the actual locking module. If this is where they did it, then it's a door card off but easy enough to access. I dont know if it is possible for them to disconnect somewhere in the A post area and have removed the door that way, so would be worth asking them question first. I did my doors one at a time including the tailgate. The pump did continue over-running whilst it was not all connected. Stopped when all pipes coupled up. Putting my finger over the pipe that was disconnected was enough to seal and stop the buzzing. Good luck, got to be a simple fix... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted August 27, 2020 Are all the doors locking and unlocking ok? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 27, 2020 7 minutes ago, Cressa said: Are all the doors locking and unlocking ok? thanks for both replies the buzzing had never happened prior to going to the body shop but IIRC i have had a few occasions of the central locking not activating when locking from the passenger side, whereas no issue when locking from the drivers side do you think this would point me to a vacuum leak on the passenger side? door cards are currently off as id removed all interior before it went for paint - is the vacuum line attaching around the top corner of the door at handle edge? im guessing it is near to the door pin rod that moves up & down Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted August 27, 2020 If You go into the door cards check the soldered joint that came from factory. It’s in the loom at the bottom of the door. Pretty sure theRe is a vacuum connection for the doors before it goes into the door Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 27, 2020 56 minutes ago, 1xshaunx1 said: If You go into the door cards check the soldered joint that came from factory. It’s in the loom at the bottom of the door. Pretty sure theRe is a vacuum connection for the doors before it goes into the door will do thanks shaun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 27, 2020 1 hour ago, 1xshaunx1 said: Pretty sure theRe is a vacuum connection for the doors before it goes into the door i will get the bentley manual out when i get home & have a look thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted August 27, 2020 The vacuum connection IN the door is about 6 inches below the door handle. 2 pozi screws hold the white unit to the door but it wont just pull out, as it has the locking rid attached Use your phone to take a picture inside the door to help I would definitely have a look at the passenger side first Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted August 28, 2020 13 hours ago, Cressa said: The vacuum connection IN the door is about 6 inches below the door handle. 2 pozi screws hold the white unit to the door but it wont just pull out, as it has the locking rid attached Use your phone to take a picture inside the door to help I would definitely have a look at the passenger side first morning cressa thanks m8 - can i disconnect the vac line with the white unit in situ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites