How smooth and how quiet for VR6?!

[mic_VR 3]

i need new mounts all round really, vf engineering mounts are the hardest things going :(

 

I guess it's subjective, I've smoothed out the engine by going for the 24v conversion which feels/sounds like its not even on compared to standard VR vibes..... but then I went for Vibra-Tech competition front mount and fast road rear/gearbox mounts so from a vibes through the seat point of view it's probably comparable to a standard VR, just without the rattles! :lol:

 

But I love it that way. to the OP, your car sounds perfectly normal mate.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The best engine mount set I have used to date is:-

 

Front - Vibratechnics Competition

 

Rear - Vibratechnics Fast Road

 

Gearbox - Genuine VAG gearbox mount, rubber, *not* the useless viscous fluid one. P/N - 3A0199402

 

For the best gearshift, but with massive amounts of extra vibration and noise, substitute the rubber VAG mount for the Vibratechnics Competition gearbox. The shift quality is simply amazing. You will never have experienced a 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 2nd like it, ever. People who criticise the Corrado's gearshift just have the wrong engine mounts :wink:

 

The Gearbox mount is the most responsible for extra noise and vibration, with the rear mount being a close second. The front mount is isolated by 2 rubber mounts at each end of the X member, so doesn't add any vibration.

 

The benefit of a proper engine mount set is improved shift and cornering. With the engine not lurching around on soggy blancmange mountings, it becomes part of the car and not some great chunk of lead trying to escape.

 

Oh, and despite VW moving onto a 4 mount setup on the newer cars (more rubber supporting the engine = more noise / vibration suppression) the R32 *still* has the same slightly offbeat idle that the 12V has. It's just a characteristic of the engine.

 

If you want Lexus straight 6 smoothness, buy a Lexus!

[mic_VR 3]

The benefit of a proper engine mount set is improved shift and cornering. With the engine not lurching around on soggy blancmange mountings, it becomes part of the car and not some great chunk of lead trying to escape.

 

100% agree, first time I drove my car with the new mounts in anger and the way it'll still change gear smoothly under hard acceleration/braking, plus a few mis-timed corner corrections and I'd suggest everyone gets new mounts. I'm loving my cars handling at the moment, just need more power.

 

Would you not want both gearbox and rear mounts to be the same type (ie. both solid or both OEM) so that the engine moved in a linear fashion rather than more turning one way or the other?

[jamiehamy 0]

I thought I was almost at the end of my 'to do' list, but clearly not!

 

Only clutch master cylinder to go which will be this weekend. Then i need to weigh up H&R springs or engine mounts...decisions!

 

I've got a spare head I might rebuild over the winter then and fit one weekend. Is there a definitive guide on VR6 head overhaul anywhere? I've not found one that goes into great detail. Should I clean valves or get new ones? How much would it cost for all the parts inc VAG gasket?

 

 

Cheers, J

[big ben 10]

the to do list will never get done mate, there will always be something!!!!!!

 

the vf engineering mounts certainly make the engine part of the car, just feels like someones welded the bloody thing in :lol:

[andy 0]

Agreed with comments above, don't bother uprating the gearbox mount to anything other than a solid rubber one. My other halfs VR6 had a Vibratechnics Gearbox mount on and it was awful. The noise and vibration really spoilt the car.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Which is why VT mounts come with a disclaimer - "Not recommended for road use" :wink:

 

It terms of outright shift quality, a harder mount is undeniably the best way to achieve it. But the refinement suffers badly. It's the age old compromise unfortunately.

[andy 0]

Which is why VT mounts come with a disclaimer - "Not recommended for road use" :wink:

 

It terms of outright shift quality, a harder mount is undeniably the best way to achieve it. But the refinement suffers badly. It's the age old compromise unfortunately.

Absolutely, totally agree. You can't have it all ways. I defy anyone to put up with one on the road though!

[tandino 0]

I had Black Forest Industries Poly mount inserts all round on my green VR6, cant remember the shure hardness of the material off the top of my head but they were between fast road and race mounts, sure when the engine and therefore the poly was cold it would vibrate through the car, once warm and over tickover it was fine, the gearshift and more importantly the driveline lurch you get when going on and off the throttle was banished, they totally transformed the car and thats from someone who's run with VT mounts all round.

Its as already said a compromise, to me id sacrifice a bit of NVH for having an engine thats not wobbling around come braking,cornering, gearchanging or accelerating! :lol:

[Yandards 0]

The later style shifter towers also help with gearshift as the design was continually modified to compensate for the movement of the engine, again not a cheap option but Dave Worts valver has a sublime gearchange and he spent a good few years swapping parts to get there. The Corrado gearbox change mechanisms went through a few revisions during the production cycle with the addition of a balance weight (it's terrible without it) and the cable mount bracket on the gearbox is changed too.

 

You will also be suprised at the number of folks driving around with their gearbox cables not quite set-up correctly; this can really mess up your gear changes, especially under heavy load. Unfortunately the VW tool to do it is not readily available and you have to do a best guess by eye.

[RW1 0]

I've just checked back. The original rear gearbox mount was changed and the engine rear mount revised to one standard as a ETKA spares in 1997 by Karmann/VW.

 

VR6 Gearbox mount ETKA spare was revised from 357 199 402C to 3A0 199 402 in 1997

 

VR6 Rear engine mount 1H0 199 262D, from mid Nov'93 onwards revised to 1H0 199 262K.

Spare in 1997 - All VR6 1H0 199 262K

 

All were/are rubber insert mounts.

 

So, if the mount has been replaced in the Corrado's history paperwork, the mounts may already be revised standard.

 

.

[VRTrickster 0]

After looking under the car Saturday I noticed that a bolt had sheared off on the front engine mount bracket! This had caused the engine to drop. I don't know how long its been like that for, but that could be why I'm experiencing pulsing lumpy idle. It must have been causing a lot of stress to the rear mounts.

 

Removed the gearbox over the weekend to get the broken bolt out. Come out easily enough with an easy out. Broke my aux pump whilst taking the box out though :mad2:

 

Should have it bolted up this weekend, then I can see how she idles ............ probably just the same, lol!

[andy 0]

I think you'll notice quite a difference. :)

[VRTrickster 0]

I think you'll notice quite a difference. :)

 

Your right, its made a real difference! I can now feel less than half the vibrations through the car. It must of been like this for years!

 

When I bolted it all back up I noticed I had to re adjust the my BMC as it was right up against the suspension turret. I think I need to get a new VW box mount now as I get a chewbacka type sound as I pull away sometimes and can feel it threw the gear lever.

 

The idle is still a bit lumpy and a think Ive found the problem. The inlet pipe I bought a little while back because mine was spilt, is spilt also. Bought another one off the bay and hopefully its got no splits. And then I should have a smooth idling VR. :)

[Jon_vr6 1]

All my 3 mounts are VT fast road and have to say they are spot on no nasty vibrations just perfect

[andy 0]

All my 3 mounts are VT fast road and have to say they are spot on no nasty vibrations just perfect

Maybe having all three is the answer, I know mixing them isn't!

 

I think I need to get a new VW box mount now as I get a chewbacka type sound as I pull away sometimes and can feel it threw the gear lever.

The inlet pipe I bought a little while back because mine was spilt, is spilt also.

 

I'd definitely change those two bits, the mount will have been working extra hard and at an awkward angle if your front mount was broken. MK2 diesel gearbox mount is good upgrade. Nice and tight.

[fla 9]

well for reference, mine sounds slightly tappy for about 1 min on startup, perhaps 2-3 mins when its really cold outside. Thats with 66k miles, so i wouldnt think it should be an issue in yours.

[jamiehamy 0]

Hmmm... mine actually sounds better when cold, it's once it's warm the chattery noise starts. Sometimes quieter, sometime louder. Admittedly you can't ear it with the windows up, but driving by parked cars above 2k rpm i can hear it. It sounded the same before i did the chains and stuff, (which incidentally had virtually no wear..doh!) and the lifters are new. Unless the 10w40 Mobile 2000 oil is too thin for the old engine.

 

I'm probably way too fussy tho as i've said before, but it's like a game!

[jamiehamy 0]

Just thought I'd update this after fitting new Genuine VAG red leads to the car at the weekend. Idle is smoother now. It's still not the smoothest idle in the world, but the slight roughness that was there ( like a half misfire on one cylinder only every now and again) has gone. It's just a constant very gentle roughness, which feels pretty normal. So not Jap V6 smoothness but not VAg old school 4cylinder roughness, which must be about right :)

 

(Old leads were ECP cheap ones that were about 3 years old).

[Kevin Bacon 5]

That's just how they are mate :D Not smooth at idle at all imo, but it's subjective. Jump in an Audi V6 of the same era and it's butter smooth compared to a VR6. The 24V VR6 is a lot smoother, but still no where near as smooth as an Audi or BMW 6.

 

One way to smooth a VR out at idle is run it richer. They don't like running lean, but you can't do that unless you remap it :D