Siezed calliper(s), or handbrake cable problem?

[Jim Bowen 1]

That's what I used to do before i replaced the cables.

get some windscreen spray de-icer on there for a quick fix.

 

 

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[leon263 0]

Just a thought here guys, it might be worth checking the calipers before going to the hassle and expense of replacing cables. The problem as described at the start of the thread sounds very familiar and in my case it is always the operating mechanism on the caliper that has siezed as opposed to the cable. If you take the wheel off you should be able to see the hand brake operating arm on the back of the caliper. It is held onto a shaft in the caliper by a nut at the pivot end. There is a fork at the opposite end of the arm into which the nipple on the end of the cable locates. If there is a couple of cms of cable protruding through the fork and if the nipple is not located in the fork when the handbrake is in the off position then the problem is with the caliper which has siezed in the 'on' position. I have found that if I soak the whole area in WD40, leave it for a few minutes and then put a ring spanner onto the nut that I can work the arm back and forward until it moves freely and the nipple locates in the fork as it should. There is very little chance of unscrewing the nut as it will be well siezed. I reckon the reason that so many members upgrade to Mk4 Golf calipers is that they do not sieze which points to a problem with the original calipers. A shot of WD 40 every couple of weeks and parking the car in gear with the handbrake off seems to work for me.

[dannyboy 0]

Just a thought here guys, it might be worth checking the calipers before going to the hassle and expense of replacing cables. The problem as described at the start of the thread sounds very familiar and in my case it is always the operating mechanism on the caliper that has siezed as opposed to the cable. If you take the wheel off you should be able to see the hand brake operating arm on the back of the caliper. It is held onto a shaft in the caliper by a nut at the pivot end. There is a fork at the opposite end of the arm into which the nipple on the end of the cable locates. If there is a couple of cms of cable protruding through the fork and if the nipple is not located in the fork when the handbrake is in the off position then the problem is with the caliper which has siezed in the 'on' position. I have found that if I soak the whole area in WD40, leave it for a few minutes and then put a ring spanner onto the nut that I can work the arm back and forward until it moves freely and the nipple locates in the fork as it should. There is very little chance of unscrewing the nut as it will be well siezed. I reckon the reason that so many members upgrade to Mk4 Golf calipers is that they do not sieze which points to a problem with the original calipers. A shot of WD 40 every couple of weeks and parking the car in gear with the handbrake off seems to work for me.

 

thats pretty much what i do but i give the mechanism a lick of grease after(stuff i use is heavy and dosent come straight off after car wash)

[VR6 South 0]

Good luck getting a genuine handbrake cable. VW in thier wisdom no longer supply hand brake cables for Mk2 Golfs :epicfail: What hope do we have?

 

The alternatives from ECP seem to be good quality and at a dicounted £5 each. I couldn't complain.

[Yandards 0]

It is water in the handbrake cable that freezes at this time of the year causing the problem.

 

If you think about the way the cable is attached to the caliper, even with the rubber boot in good condition, you will get water track down the inside of the handbrake cable via the joys of capillary action. Squirting some oil down the cable will help a little as it will displace the water but as the cable twisted steel with a nylon outer it is designed to be self lubricating; over time the addition of oil will create a lovely grinding paste from bits of nylon and the oil.

 

As for the handbrake mech on the caliper, the reason they go Pete Tong is mechanism is they are external and do not get enough range of movement or use to ensure that it doesn't seize. Sticking some lithium grease over the mechanical lever on the caliper does help to keep the water out but it will need cleaning off and reapplying ever six months to get the best from it.

[fla 9]

whats the difference between this and the Mk4 calipers and does anyone have pics of them side-by-side to highlight the differences?

[davidwort 0]

whats the difference between this and the Mk4 calipers and does anyone have pics of them side-by-side to highlight the differences?

they have the hose connection in a different position IIRC and so need a different length hose, otherwise the are very similar, just with a further improved handbrake release mech and they are an alloy instead of cast iron.

[volksworld13 0]

my cable has stuck on this morning, wish i replaced both of them last year, instead of just the one one !! doh :brickwall:

[Jim 1]

Miraculously I hopped in the car last night to see if it wanted to behave, and I released the handbrake - and "clonk" the mechanism unseized :D

 

So will be just leaving it parked in gear for now. Think a pair of new callipers AND the cables are in order ASAP! (off to DG on Saturday to sort it!)

[craigowl 0]

Seems as common as it was in November 1968 when it happened to us in Aviemore for the first time ever.

 

I have always thought that auto designers should have paid attention to, albeit humdrum, stuff like this instead of all those fancy gimmicks we can do without.

 

FFS - look at the difference and great leaps in technology that have been made to the cars we drive since we had our crap British Leyland 1100 (new in 1966).

 

42 years on, rain sensors, windscreen and mirror heaters, etc. etc. - they should get the finger out!

Winter driving is enough of a hassle, particularly when you have to drive every day to earn a crust - without headaches of this kind! :bad-words: :bad-words:

[jamiehamy 0]

Don't buy into the corporate conspiracy - they WANT you to buy a new cable rather than fix it.

 

It takes 10mins a side and saves you £30.

 

It's like the heater motor only working on 4. New motor or a bit of time and effort and £0.84 to fit a new thermal fuse?

 

Maybe it's my Scottish blood....

[Jim 1]

Don't buy into the corporate conspiracy - they WANT you to buy a new cable rather than fix it.

 

It takes 10mins a side and saves you £30.

 

It's like the heater motor only working on 4. New motor or a bit of time and effort and £0.84 to fit a new thermal fuse?

 

Maybe it's my Scottish blood....

 

For what they cost, I'll just replace them! The garage didn't tell me I needed new ones.. I decided I wanted to fit new ones :)

[somersetdub 0]

Cables are cheap and easy to change and will give peace of mind once fitted! :-)

[Wullie 1]

I'm leaning towards jamiehamy on this one with a proviso. Have a look at the existing cables and if there is no degrading or rust it is probably just icing in the current temperatures. I had icing on a six month old cable due to the rubber seal being dislodged and allowing water in. On the other hand if its knackered otherwise, replace it.

 

Being skint I can't justify replacing serviceable parts when all they need is a clean and grease.

 

On a side note I grease my handbrake cables, and any other cables, using what the kids call "Water Balloons". Fill the balloon with grease and tape it tightly round the end of the cable then gently squeeze forcing the grease into the cable. Squeeze away till the grease is pushed right through and comes out the other end. Just ensure that the cable nipple is clear of the end of the outer and not blocking it. Can be a bit messy but is effective.

[jamiehamy 0]

I'm leaning towards jamiehamy on this one with a proviso. Have a look at the existing cables and if there is no degrading or rust it is probably just icing in the current temperatures. I had icing on a six month old cable due to the rubber seal being dislodged and allowing water in. On the other hand if its knackered otherwise, replace it.

 

Being skint I can't justify replacing serviceable parts when all they need is a clean and grease.

 

On a side note I grease my handbrake cables, and any other cables, using what the kids call "Water Balloons". Fill the balloon with grease and tape it tightly round the end of the cable then gently squeeze forcing the grease into the cable. Squeeze away till the grease is pushed right through and comes out the other end. Just ensure that the cable nipple is clear of the end of the outer and not blocking it. Can be a bit messy but is effective.

 

 

That's genius!

[Wullie 1]

I'm leaning towards jamiehamy on this one with a proviso. Have a look at the existing cables and if there is no degrading or rust it is probably just icing in the current temperatures. I had icing on a six month old cable due to the rubber seal being dislodged and allowing water in. On the other hand if its knackered otherwise, replace it.

 

Being skint I can't justify replacing serviceable parts when all they need is a clean and grease.

 

On a side note I grease my handbrake cables, and any other cables, using what the kids call "Water Balloons". Fill the balloon with grease and tape it tightly round the end of the cable then gently squeeze forcing the grease into the cable. Squeeze away till the grease is pushed right through and comes out the other end. Just ensure that the cable nipple is clear of the end of the outer and not blocking it. Can be a bit messy but is effective.

 

 

That's genius!

Not really, just old and poor and been mucking about with things mechanical all my days. I think it was Methuselah showed me that one.

[SIMONG 0]

i have this problem but from monday morn. driving on sunday no issues. park up get in next morning got to bottom of the road and didnt feel right checked all the tyres, no flats. carried on driving. pulled up to a red light and then that smell of binding brakes entered the car.

 

god dammit! only had it on the ramp on friday!

 

it seemed better when driving home and again ok this morning, but whilst moving kept working the hand brake to try and free it up a bit.

 

i have mk4 golf calipers so im guessing that for me it will more likely be a cable issues rather than a caliper issues have to try and get it back on the ramp and give a blast with some grease!

[Supercharged 2]

Only just seen this but deffo worth changing the cables if they are originals, did mine 2 years ago and it's been perfect since.

 

They are self lubricating, when old the boots split and they loose grease etc plus they stretch, at £10 a side it's a no brainer

 

You're running MK4 calipers already aren't you Jim?

[Critical_Mass 10]

Guys, can anyone give me a quick list of things needed to do the front and rear mk4 calipers?

 

Is it simply the calipers and different flexi hoses?

 

Can i use the same discs, pads and carriers?

[Jim 1]

Only just seen this but deffo worth changing the cables if they are originals, did mine 2 years ago and it's been perfect since.

 

They are self lubricating, when old the boots split and they loose grease etc plus they stretch, at £10 a side it's a no brainer

 

You're running MK4 calipers already aren't you Jim?

 

I believe the VR still has original callipers.. though not sure. My valver has MK4's on it tho..

 

Going to DG on Saturday. They're getting handbrake cables AND a set of MK4's & conversion hoses in so we can fix whatever is wrong whilst I'm there :)

 

Guys, can anyone give me a quick list of things needed to do the front and rear mk4 calipers?

 

Is it simply the calipers and different flexi hoses?

 

Can i use the same discs, pads and carriers?

 

Yep :)

[Critical_Mass 10]

Cheers Jim :thumbleft:

[Critical_Mass 10]

B*gger, got in the car this morning and the handbrake had frozen off.... not really a problem. Got to work, pulled into works carpark and for some reason thought it would be a good idea to see if the handbrake was now working. Well it was and it wasnt, it would let me put it on. But now doesnt appear to be releasing. Drove the car forward and back a bit and didnt seem to be dragging the wheels. So just hoping its release a bit by 4pm. :?

[V-Dubstar 0]

Guys, can anyone give me a quick list of things needed to do the front and rear mk4 calipers?

 

Is it simply the calipers and different flexi hoses?

 

Can i use the same discs, pads and carriers?

 

If anything mate u can't use mk4 carriers, the offset is different and so fouls! I found this out after completely re-furbing mine :lol: :mad2:

 

Dunno what u mean about the front ones though...

[Critical_Mass 10]

Is it only the rear calipers that can be changed?

 

What carriers did you use?

[V-Dubstar 0]

Is it only the rear calipers that can be changed?

 

What carriers did you use?

 

Well no, u can put late mk3 VR6 front calipers on if ur upgrading the size of the brakes, and I think a variant of the mk4 used 288's too.

 

I had to use the carriers that were on there already in the end. It's because the mk4 rear brake discs are 232mm and rado's are 226mm I think, so the carriers are offset by that 6mm...