cant get the dizzy rotor arm off, also trying to sort starting issue

[hyland770 0]

Right iv been having a weird starting issue, 1.8 16v fires up fine then idles down to below 500 revs and doesnt fire on all cylinders and then after about 20 secs runs fine and drives fine! The other day after leaving the car outside it did the same thing then as i was driving just died and wouldnt re start.....the aa man came out and said my dizzy cap was damp and needed replacing sooooo he got me on my way and today i replaced the dizzy cap, but also noticed the rotor arm looks tired so tried to replace this but cant get the darn thing off, its not screwed on or bolted but i just cant get it off and even with the cap replaced its still doing the strange start up procedure! If the dizzy arm doesnt work then il try new ht leads and plugs and if that doesnt do it im not sure where to turn, so any ideas on getting the arm off or any other advice to help with this issue?? Cheers guys and gals

[pumbaa 0]

Had the same problem with mine, it had gotten so hot that the arm had melted onto its stalk. I eventually levered mine off but damaged the top plate of the dizzy (didn't affect it working) so be careful. You could always try breaking it off.

[hyland770 0]

Il get the big screwdriver out and give it another go in the morning then, i wont rip any of the internals of the dizzy out with it will i!?

[mrbeige 0]

Be very careful you don't damage the top plate of hte dizzy, as I bent it on mine and it cased an eventual failure as the disc was rubbing on the hall sensor. Best way is to get a set of mole grips on it and basically make it shatter by gripping it really tight. You'll want to replace the bugger anyway :)

[hyland770 0]

Is that a legitimate way of doing it (just shattering it)? Im a bit worried that if i pull really hard with the molegrips im going to end up with more than just the rotor arm off!!! Someone please reassure me this womt happen!? Also if worst comes to worst does the entire distributor just bolt on and off or is it more complicated than that? And finally is it safe to squirt wd40 into the dizzy to help keep the damp out?

[daves16v 1]

Had the same happen to my old valver, I think they glue them on from the factory. Yeah as said above, I used mole grips to break big junks off, just take your time.

[pumbaa 0]

I'd go with mrbeige and break/shatter it which is less likely to break anything else, you'll see when you do it that you have little to worry about.

 

I've damaged my top plate about a year ago but have just bought a 2nd hand dizzy to replace it.

 

In the worst case a new dizzy is a very simple bolt on job, just make sure you mark its position with some tip-ex before you remove it and replace as per the old one.

 

Not sure on the WD, dont see why not though.

[pumbaa 0]

Might actually be easier to take the dizzy off first anyway.

[hyland770 0]

So some thread lock is advisable when replacing the rotor arm to stop it flying off?

[daves16v 1]

So some thread lock is advisable when replacing the rotor arm to stop it flying off?

 

I didn't, never had a problem.

[pumbaa 0]

I never have

[davidwort 0]

crushing to remove is the correct method and no they don't need glueing back on, put many on mine over the years, it gets red-lined regularly and they never go anywhere :)