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8vMatt

What would the interest be in new late headlight switches? Pricing Update.

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Still interested. Might change my vote (from all green) to all green but with red/blue middle dial for temp).

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Any updates on this Matt, if it works please put me down for one matey! :D

 

oh and to answer your question the lighting colours are green inner (symbol) and orange outer ring. Red inner symbol is perfect as im changing my LEDs to red.

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The partial update is this- I have red LED's in my dash and the new switch doesn't like them and won't turn them on. I am about to test the switch in Chris Langdon's standard green lit car. I will also send the switch off to Chris (RW1) for his analysis. We are confident that the new switch will be good for the standard dash lights but will confirm this. The new switch operates the headlights just as it should do with a nice firm clunk movement to the operating of the switch. Will update again with more test results.

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sorry Matt, where was the price mate??
Hi buddy, I put £21-23 somewhere further back in the thread. It wasn't a confirmed price due to the nature of getting import duties and Vat on the order. But I'm hopeful I can cap the price at that. I don't want people having an unexpected price when its all done.

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Well chuffed with this, I was fiddling with the light switch the other day thinking it was feeling a bit fragile. Count me in for one.

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OK guys, got this switch off Matt. I'll summarise finding towards the weekend with photos etc. when I've had time to do all the tests necessary.

 

Still to test electrically but right now are any of you electronic geeks or know someone? Its got the normal switch slider inside for the sidelights/headlights but there's an electronic circuit inside for the dimmer control.

 

It uses a Pulse Width Modulation IC IL6083. In another part of the circuit there is a STP60NF06 power MOSFET. Ain't going to work out the circuit. But I can guess what each is doing.

 

1) The big question is why does a dash fitted with LEDs not illuminate? (In theory, this the best way to control dimming of LED circuits.)

 

2) Is the heatsink back mounting plate of the MOSFET TO-220 case live or electrically insulated from the MOSFET? (There is a earth wire internally near to this back plate in the switch.)

 

Its a circuit similar to this diagram.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48340[/ATTACH]

 

.

Edited by RW1

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Hi buddy, I put £21-23 somewhere further back in the thread. It wasn't a confirmed price due to the nature of getting import duties and Vat on the order. But I'm hopeful I can cap the price at that. I don't want people having an unexpected price when its all done.

 

cheers for that mate.....

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OK, examined and tested the Chinese Headlight Switch. Here is what I found.

The heat generating small 1.2 watt bulbs that lead to the switched finger posts failing as seen in the right side of the photo below have been substituted with LEDs. So the switch runs cold when they illuminate.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48405[/ATTACH]

 

With the body cover removed, the detail construction can be seen.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48406[/ATTACH]

 

The other main change is an electronic dash light dimmer circuit has replaced the rheostat resistor version in the German made one. The transistor case you can see is a MOSFET transistor used to amplify the 8 pin Integrated Circuit near the knurled thumb wheel. Together they provide a Pulse Width Modulation power supply for the dash illumination controlled by a variable potentiometer hidden inside the knurled thumb wheel.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48407[/ATTACH]

 

Side view showing the 8 pin PWM IC.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48408[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48409[/ATTACH]

 

The basic switch mechanics and the electrical sliding contacts are the equivalent of 535 941 531D, LHDrive Corrado fit. Clearly you can see the bulb to LED change and the deletion of the rheostat resistor for an electronic circuit.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48410[/ATTACH]

 

I made a precautionary mod. On examination, the MOSFET transistor metal base is quite close to a switch base contact rail and a bare wire inside the switch used to illuminate the internal LEDs. So I added a short piece of wire heat shrink wrap to isolate the MOSFET from the other electrical parts. So be careful when fitting not to move the transistor you can see the 3 legs of in the switch body and everything will be alright.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48411[/ATTACH]

 

The switch fits into the dash slot as per the German original. It is a direct mechanical substitution. It will be necessary on UK Corrados to cut off the locator keyway cleanly/flush with the base of the switch (connection pin side) for it to plug into the Headlight Loom Connector. LH Drive Corrado’s, this is not necessary.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48412[/ATTACH]

 

This how the switch looks with just the ignition switched on (ie. daytime driving). It is fairly bright so at night time, it will be brighter than the old German version and it cannot be dimmed. If you need to subdue it, I suggest the top of the red LED lens is masked off with a dot mask cap of black paint to stop direct LED light. (This is how I do it when I have fitted LEDs)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48413[/ATTACH]

 

When both the sidelights and headlights are switched on, the green ring is illuminated. This differs from my switch in that the green ring extinguishes when the headlights are switched on. If the ignition is not switched on, the red lamp symbol is not illuminated.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48414[/ATTACH]

 

Another photo showing the switch illumination with the dash dials turned fully on.

 

 

The Chinese Headlight switch operates the sidelights, headlights normally. It permits the front and rear fog lights to operate as they would with a German version of the switch. On a standard Corrado dash installation, ie. it uses filament bulbs, the dials, fog-HRW-Seat control switch bank , the heater panel and the auxiliary oil pressure/voltage unit in the centre console will all illuminate.

What doesn’t work is the Dim-Dip circuit as the switch like its German counterpart for LHD Corrado’s, does not have the circuit fitted.

 

In summary:

 

- Uses LEDs instead of filament bulbs internally for cool running and therefore no long term internal damage as happens with the German version.

- The quality of the switch build is on a par with the German version.

- The Chinese switch has removed the troublesome heat source .

- The dimmer control works over a greater rotation angle so adjustment control is much finer.

- The locating Keyway on the switch needs removing to permit the Headlight Loom Connector to couple.

- The Green “lights on” ring in the switch cap is illuminated all the time the lights are on with ignition on where as the German version is only illuminates when the sidelights are on with ignition on.

- The Dim-Dip circuit on UK RH Drive Corrados will not be operable.

- When tested, the dimmer circuit control when used with LED illumination in the dash switches, heater control panel and dials does not work.

 

- Be careful when fitting the switch not to move the 3 legged transistor as it may then contact a bare wire or one of the switches sliding contact rails.

 

So, the switch is an ideal substitute and represents very good value for the price Matt is offering for a standard Corrado which has a filament bulb illumination dash as produced at the factory by Karmann.

 

.

Edited by RW1

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That is a comprehensive summary Chris (thank-you!), and excellent news for those of wanting to make a purchase. So.... when can you start taking orders, Matt? :)

 

Just one question where I will need to sound a bit stupid but.. what is the dim-dip circuit and what's the consequence of it not being present, Chris?

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Its the yellow wires and big dropping resistor just behind the left front headlight. It was a UK thing cos people were driving round with candles on the front of their cars in the 80's. So big Gov. decided it would be a good idea to have the main dipped headlights on when sidelights were switched on while driving. I've already been asked by one friend who wants to retain it on his Corrado.

 

But rather than just the headlights being on and bright, they come on with a yellowy glow. Know as town driving lights by some as that was their main intended use.

 

No its not necessary and all my VWs have had it isloated immediately and pass the MoT each year. And in fitting the Chinese switch, because there is no pin connection on the switch base, there is no need for electrical isolation of fuses or wires. So its a simple swap.

 

And if people have fitted a headlight loom already fitted, the dim-dip will have been isolated because it upset the loom relays. If people will be fitting a headlight loom in future, there is no need to isolate the dim-dip circuit as the electrical supply no longer is present that upsets the relay control of the headlight loom.

 

I also suggest people make it a buy one, buy one spare as these won't always be available given Matt will have to bulk order from China.

 

.

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Looks great then, shame they didn't fit a lights on - ignition off buzzer circuit, but I guess that would have required an extra pin/feed from the driver's door.

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Looks great then, shame they didn't fit a lights on - ignition off buzzer circuit, but I guess that would have required an extra pin/feed from the driver's door.

 

And indicator...

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Looks great then, shame they didn't fit a lights on - ignition off buzzer circuit, but I guess that would have required an extra pin/feed from the driver's door.

 

my corrado has that feature, will look into what was done to it one day, but do like the look of this new headlight switch

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Thank you so much Chris, I really appreciate all your help on this. I will contact the suppliers and be placing the order this coming week. I will start a new proper group buy thread and pm everyone that's interested in buying one. I only want to take money once I physically have them delivered. Thanks everyone for the positive response to this.

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Out of interest

 

"- The Dim-Dip circuit on UK RH Drive Corrados will not be operable."

 

So, what effect will this have? Not sure what this means?

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