CazzaVR 0 Posted May 29, 2012 You can change it from above. Have done a fair few now- can be done in 30 mins! Just remove the cowling, set steering wheel to lowest position. The tiny screw is deliberately quite loose. Tap it round anti-clockwise from the side with a flat screwdriver and hammer. You may need to 'scratch' a line on the side of the screw so the screwdriver has something to grip into. Should come undone. If you have trouble, it can still be done from the top- you just have to find a screwdriver the right size, which you may need to bend like Jim says. Don't refit the screw- it clips in pretty firmly anyway, so just use a cable tie. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted May 30, 2012 Just picked up the new switch today,so probably try and have a go at it over the weekend.Il let you know how it goes and pass any tips on if i manage to get it done.I have my swearing head at the ready just incase Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted May 30, 2012 just to add my issue to this - i've replaced the starter (twice!) and a new ignition switch (vw), but every so often the solenoid will click but the starter will not turn as if there is no power going to it. All lights etc come on as normal. Can be quite annoying so suggestions welcomed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DriverVR6 11 Posted May 30, 2012 fla, this is a problem I can help you with. You need to do as per this post... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41192-For-those-with-hot-start-problems-lil-update&highlight=hot+start+problems+relay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted May 30, 2012 Tiny watch maker screwdrivers and jobs a goodun, no need to bend screwdrivers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted May 30, 2012 Thanks jon.I have a set of those somewhere.Do they fit without having to bend them?That is great news if they do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted May 30, 2012 Yeah when my bro did his he used one, no bending needed just select the right size and as said before remove the seat, steering wheel cowling and get plenty of light in there. You may need to move a few of the wires to one side to gain access to the screw Good luck Jon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted May 30, 2012 Nice one mate,thanks for that.Hopefully will get chance to have a go over the weekend.Thanks to lizzie for an extra day holiday! Whoop whoop! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted May 31, 2012 fla, this is a problem I can help you with. You need to do as per this post... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41192-For-those-with-hot-start-problems-lil-update&highlight=hot+start+problems+relay thanks for that Driver, but i think my problem relates to the starter not turning rather than the relay not getting enough power - maybe i didnt make it very clear. Anything you would suggest for this issue? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DriverVR6 11 Posted May 31, 2012 fla, I think this is the cause, a friend of mine had exactly the same symptoms, and this cured it completely. Try it, it takes about 30 mins to do, and you don't need to cut any wires. If it works great, if not, then you've only wasted 30 mins of your life. Relay, cable and a few connectors costs pennies. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
efil4sbuD 0 Posted May 31, 2012 I finally managed to get mine changed today. Unfortunately, no amount of screwdriver bending was going to work and I had to completely disassemble the steering lock. I have a '95 VR with the adjustable steering column and round shear bolts rather than ordinary bolts like some people seem to have. I removed the steering wheel, indicator stalks and all plugs. I pulled the splined adapter, removed the circlip, spring and horn contact. Next was the two shear bolts. I had to grind them down to make flat sides to get some pliers on and gently turn them. One refused to come out so I Dremeled it down the join between the two halves of the lock body. I then drilled out the bit that stayed inside and re-tapped the hole. It took me a few hours and a lot of swearing because the steering lock would not release. In the end I had to drill into the body and release the barrel and then slide the lock across from the inside. After swapping the switch I reassembled it all and fitted two ordinary bolts in place of the shear bolts so I don't have so much grief next time. It all went back without any drama. I also took the opportunity to fit a new Momo steering wheel as my original wheel gets sticky in the heat. I now have a car that I can start with one hand and a nice, new steering wheel to hold on to. Tomorrow I will be fitting my newly polished 17s, HIDs on the main beams and all the lower dash panels that have been off the car for the last two years! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted June 2, 2012 Well,there aint a hope in hell a screwdriver will fit down the side of that switch into where the screw is.Two screwdrivers now smashed,watchmakers set all smashed and no further forward.Piece of crap Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted June 2, 2012 You can change it from above. Have done a fair few now- can be done in 30 mins! Just remove the cowling, set steering wheel to lowest position. The tiny screw is deliberately quite loose. Tap it round anti-clockwise from the side with a flat screwdriver and hammer. You may need to 'scratch' a line on the side of the screw so the screwdriver has something to grip into. Should come undone. If you have trouble, it can still be done from the top- you just have to find a screwdriver the right size, which you may need to bend like Jim says. Don't refit the screw- it clips in pretty firmly anyway, so just use a cable tie. :brickwall: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted June 2, 2012 How do you tap the screw round with a hammer when ya cant even get in at it with a small screwdriver?The gap between the side of the switch and the lock housing is mm.Im trying to do this from the top.I can see where the screw is by using a mirror and looking back up towards the switch,but cant get a screwdriver that far up to get at the screw.How do you get a flat screwdriver and a hammer in any where near that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted June 2, 2012 I couldn't see the screw when I did mine either. Its gotta come out anyway, so just smash the old one off from the bottom. Thats what I ended up doing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted June 2, 2012 How did you get in at it mate to smash it off? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted June 2, 2012 I went in from underneath. I used a small flat head screwdriver, and a set of needle nosed pliers. I just started bending and twisting the contacts iirc, and it sort of came apart in a couple of stages. I got enough off to expose the retaining screw on the column side, and I managed to get the screwdriver up and undo it from there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted June 2, 2012 Ok mate cheers.I need a new plan of attack.Its so bloody frustrating cos i can see where the screw is by using a mirror but just cant get to it as it seems quite far up/back Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peebee 0 Posted June 2, 2012 Mate ive been through this, its a right pain in the arse! I changed the ignition switch and it remained the same. Its an issue with the barrel. Mine starts every time, when you turn the key and while its at its max laterally lift the key up. Might sound stupid but works for me.! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted June 3, 2012 Finally! Got the fecker out.3 smashed screwdrivers,one scraped hand,a bad back,lots of swearing,and a mixture of about ten different size screwdrivers and various wangling of the steering wheel up and down in various positions and its out!All that for a tiny little feckin screw.Thank you vw.So,i read about cable tieing it back in.Anybody know exactly where abouts the cable tie should go?Cheers for all the advice fellas Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
efil4sbuD 0 Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) I just read more posts and didn't realise you had it out already... BTW, cable ties are asking for trouble. It's all well and good just smashing the old one off but you still need to do the new one up and you'll risk doing damage to the screw threads and possibly the back of the steering lock. If it's too tight to get anything on it then you'll have to grind the shear bolts like I did or drill out and re-tap and install new bolts - either new shear bolts if the old ones come out cleanly or any bolts that will fit an enlarged hole. Edited June 6, 2012 by efil4sbuD Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted June 6, 2012 Cable ties work fine. You lash them round the front of the ignition housing and then over the back of the ignition switch. I managed to get one on either side no problems and it held the switch in place nice and tight for the years I subsequently owned the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubweiser 0 Posted June 6, 2012 (edited) efil4sbud,i didnt have to smash the old switch out mate,i managed eventually to get it out properly with no damage (apart from a couple of screwdrivers)And cheers jim,I didnt bother putting the screw back in.I put a cable tie around the back of the switch/electrical connector block and up around the steering lock.To be honest,i dont see the need for the screw.The switch cant move anywhere once its in place,and besides that,the electrical block connector pushes up onto the switch and clips in place with them two lugs on it,so surely it shouldnt be able to move.Why the need for the screw?or am i missing something.Plus,there was no way i was going to put a screw back in until at least it had been tested (if the weather ever gets hot again)incase i had the same arse on trying to get it back out. Edited June 6, 2012 by dubweiser Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
efil4sbuD 0 Posted June 8, 2012 efil4sbud,i didnt have to smash the old switch out mate No no, it wasn't aimed at you. Just a comment about the general lack of care that some people show their cars and their encouragement of others to do the same. Regarding the cable ties, I accept that they may do a good enough job. I didn't expect that they would hold the switch in tight enough so that it can't become dislodged in the future. Having said that though, it does make it quite easy for anyone stealing your car to get it started assuming there's no immobiliser. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted June 9, 2012 No no, it wasn't aimed at you. Just a comment about the general lack of care that some people show their cars and their encouragement of others to do the same. Regarding the cable ties, I accept that they may do a good enough job. I didn't expect that they would hold the switch in tight enough so that it can't become dislodged in the future. Having said that though, it does make it quite easy for anyone stealing your car to get it started assuming there's no immobiliser. Its not a lack of care for the car fella, if the switch is broke anyway, then by breaking it off your not really doing any damage. If you read what I did again, you'll notice it was done using long nosed pliers and a small screwdriver, not a bloody lump hammer and hacksaw to the steering column ffs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites