LRWMotorsport 10 Posted June 19, 2012 Hi Everyone, Typical newbie question here: Which grade of Oil should be used for a 94 VR6? Quantum Silver? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harrier 1 Posted June 19, 2012 Yep,thats fine or any decent 10w40 semi synth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted June 19, 2012 Yep - I use the silver too. It was swapped to Gold at a service not too long ago and it didn't seem to suit the engine as well - used oil far more quickly, and seemed a heck of a lot "noisier" - back to silver and sounds a lot happier :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
P3rks 11 Posted June 19, 2012 As above, synta silver. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daleyboy 0 Posted June 19, 2012 Does anyone know the best place to get this ?, suppliers are a bit thin on the ground (or i can't find them) i think it makes sense to go for a 25 litre drum. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 18 Posted June 19, 2012 I was going to start an oil thread tonight, I have a 4.5l tub of quantum synta in the garage (10 40), unopened. It says it was filled in 2004, will this be any good still? Also, is this different to the silver mentioned as it doesn't say it anywhere. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KADVR6 0 Posted June 19, 2012 i believe you can still get it at TPS, but its listed as 10/40 synta or this oil is very good for a vr http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-6361-mobil-super-2000-x1-10w-40-semi-synthetic-engine-oil-formerly-mobil-super-s-10w-40.aspx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted June 20, 2012 Sorry to thread hijack but when I was looking last year a number of people recommended this: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68898-fuchs-titan-race-pro-s-10w-50-ester-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx Is there any advantage our disadvantage between this and the synta? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted June 20, 2012 I use fuchs in mine. Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
P3rks 11 Posted June 20, 2012 Sorry to thread hijack but when I was looking last year a number of people recommended this: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68898-fuchs-titan-race-pro-s-10w-50-ester-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx Is there any advantage our disadvantage between this and the synta? I would imagine the 10w50 would be better for the higher mileage VR's being a thicker oil when up to temp. Less leaks, should quieter down any rattles etc. Will also be good for those who regularly see higher oil temps as it'll be thicker - such as track days etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted June 20, 2012 I would imagine the 10w50 would be better for the higher mileage VR's being a thicker oil when up to temp. Less leaks' date=' should quieter down any rattles etc. Will also be good for those who regularly see higher oil temps as it'll be thicker - such as track days etc.[/quote'] I'm on 141k and it does seem slightly quieter than before (can't remember what the previous owner used). No noticable oil level drop in 6 months. So I think I'll stick with it. thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LRWMotorsport 10 Posted June 20, 2012 Thanks very much for the advice everyone. I'm a bit of a Synta silver fan, was told by a reputable engine builder once that it is very stable at high temperatures. Usually buy 25L in from TPS as I run it in the MK2 aswell. The Mobil seems quite cheap on the Opie site. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted June 20, 2012 Fifty five quid for five litres !? You need 7 to fill a VR. It's an old, low-tech engine, stop worrying about it and stick with the reasonably priced semi-synthetics.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 20, 2012 Fifty five quid for five litres !? You need 7 to fill a VR. It's an old, low-tech engine, stop worrying about it and stick with the reasonably priced semi-synthetics.. It's easy to be so dismissive if your engine isn't using oil but VR6s absolutely love that Pro S Silkolene. It reduced consumption considerably on my original engine when it had valve guide and bore wear. Noticably smoother running too. Obviously you don't pay that for it. Get it when it's on Special at Opie. For tight VR6s and 24Vs, I recommend Castrol Edge 5-40, which is on offer at the moment. Now THAT really is a good oil :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted June 20, 2012 Kev - which grade of the Silkolene Pro S did you use? 10w40 or 10w50? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Portent 0 Posted June 20, 2012 Also the difference between the fuchs pro s and a midrange oil is 20 to 30 quid for a complete change if you get it on offer. I spend that every few weeks on replacing bits of plastic trim so happy to spend that to keep the engine well behaved. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted June 20, 2012 Kev wats the difference between a 5 40 and a 10 40 Iv always used synta but want to try some different oil My vr is reasonable low milege at 104000 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted June 20, 2012 My engine isn't using oil because it only does 1200 miles a year.. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 20, 2012 I'd use 10W-50 in VR6s personally. It will last a lot longer than a semi-synth too, so doesn't need changing as often ;) 5W-40 just flows easier at low temperatures. If you have a good VR6 engine, by all means use it. The afore mentioned Castrol Edge or Titan Pro S, both very good oils. Quantum Gold and Longlife....hmmm.... I dunno about that stuff personally. It just seems to sweat out of the sump joins and burns off easier than branded oils. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted June 20, 2012 Does anyone actually check the oil condition before changing it? I think most people on older cars, particularly an enthusiast forum, they're going to just change it according to the schedule.. I know I do, and it REALLY doesn't need it due to the low miles. Newer engines that actually test or track the oil condition will hold off the servicing for you anyway, if you can wait that long.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 20, 2012 There are a few places online that will analyse a sample for you. They look for metal content as well as carbon levels, so can give an idea of wear rates and fuel consumption etc. The sump sensor in modern cars is a more basic version of that analysis. You can get a general feel for how often your particular oil needs changing. Pull out the dipstick and pull it between your finger and thumb. Does it still feel 'oily', as in slippery still? If so, don't change it. Having had a few engines from new, the first few thousand you'll get swarf coming out. From 5000 miles the swarf should cease. But if it comes back, change to a different oil. I tell you what, the longlife III oil at 20,000 miles most definitely does not feel 'oily' any more! More like black water. I'd change it every 10K, max. There's just too much carbon and other contaminants in the oil past that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
captainredeye 0 Posted June 20, 2012 So silkoline is the One t go for. Have used motul 8100 and now using castrol gtx and both have quite high oil consumption. What is the average milage per liter of oil used for a vr? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 20, 2012 1 Litre per 4000 for a very good VR6. 1 litre per 1000 for less good one. 1 litre per 500 for shagged bores one. Average is probably a litre per 1500-2000 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 18 Posted June 20, 2012 I've done 4000 in mine and doesnt appear to have used any!!! it has only done 64000 though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KADVR6 0 Posted June 20, 2012 so a litre every 200 miles is not good then? suppose a knackered head gasket is not helping lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites