Vr running very cold!

[robo22sri 10]

Not sure where to start looking!

 

My vr is running very cold the temp gauge doesnt go above 70ish C! causing shocking fuel usage!

 

The oil is ok and gets to 90c, Not sure if the stat is stuck open or not, i got hot air out of the cabin etc

 

I tried putting card borad over half of the rad and still didn't make much difference till i came to a stand still!

 

The sensor in the rad is that just the fan control switch?

 

I think i read in the cooling guide that it gives the signal to come off the start up map?

 

Any help would be great :bonk:

[Jim Bowen 1]

Mine did this after renewing all the cooling system, sat just above 70c. Dunno if its fixed now, but i've taken car to bits and put it back together again, will find out soon.

 

Tested the thermostat and nothing wrong with that. I thought it had something to do with the aux water pump being on all the time, but told this is normal

[VW_OwneR_85 2]

might be worth getting it on vagcom/vcds and see what the ecu temp says and compare against the gauge temp

[robo22sri 10]

Anyone know a good vagcom for a laptop?

 

Please don't say Ross tech lol i don't have that much wedge floating around

[Jon_vr6 1]

Have you checked the bottom rad hose is getting warm if not stat is most probably stuck closed

[RW1 0]

Thermostat has gone to fail condition, ie in the open condition. The oil temp at 90'C indicates its running cool confirming the temp gauge reading of 70'C ish.

 

You will still get hot air out of the heating but maybe not quite as hot as usual. The engine probably is taking longer to warm up as the coolant is initially circulating the full system rahter than the engine block only.

 

VCDS won't really tell you much with this mechanical condition.

 

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[robo22sri 10]

RW1 that makes sense! both hoses are hot from the rad

 

the top hose from the block to matrix failed a little while ago! was rotten a guess a bit of the hose has got stuck on the stat

 

BTW its on golf vr6 not a rado

[CazzaVR 0]

As above- sounds like it's stuck open and running on the cold map- hence the bad mpg.

[robo22sri 10]

i was leaning towards that but though sticking card board over the rad would bring the temps up! but it didnt do alot :lol:

[RW1 0]

Thought you only did that with Model T Fords.......

 

Golf VR6 or Corrado VR6 is the same 80'C thermostat 075 121 113D

 

As a guide, with 20% G11/80% water mix, a fully warmed engine with a good 80'C thermostat:-

 

- coasting downhill drops to 82'C coolant and oil temp 92'C/94'C.

- level driving at 40 - 60mph sits at about 89'C/90'C coolant and oil temp 96'C/98'C.

- uphill driving at 40 - 60mph sits at about 91'C coolant and oil temp 98'C/100'C

- motorway at 70mph/75mph sits at 90'C/91'C coolant and oil temp 100'C/102'C

 

for outside air temps in the region of 20'C.

 

So at 90'C oil, that if you project the line heads towards 70'C coolant. I'dd believe the dash readings.

 

[used to be a lot higher with wierd fan switch on temps at 112'C last year. Oil temp regularly ran at 110'C/112'C with coolant at 100'C. Cause was a sluggish thermostat and not opening enough.]

 

Given your perished heater pipe and the awkwardness of changing the thermostat, I would also consider replacing :

 

- the thermostat housing with its seal, be prepared for some engine block corrosion where sits, use Hylomar Universal Blue to reseat,

particularly the lower horizontal lip area of the housing.

- possibly replace the cross "crack" pipe and rubber O seals.

- replace the three temp sender seals in the thermostat housing.

 

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Edited October 2, 2012 by RW1

[Jim Bowen 1]

What does the neuspeed thermostat do. I have one of them sat on the shelf. And also a spare standard one. I put my original in hot water and it seemed to open up and close again.

[robo22sri 10]

The nuespeed one opens earlier Jim, they are 70c rated instead of 80c

 

---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 PM ----------

 

I have bought so far

 

New samco hoses

New expansion bottle

New water pump

New oil cooler

3 litres of g12 ++

 

I have a thermo housing and crack pipe in the shed with 2 sensors in

 

The 3rd sensor is just for the rado 3rd stage fan run?

 

What else should I get?

[RW1 0]

O ring seals:

- Crack pipe seals 2 off - N10139201

- Thermostat position seal itself 1 off - N90136802

- Thermostat housing to engine block 1 off - 021 121 119A

- Thermostat housing to crack pipe adaptor onto thermostat housing 1 off - N10139201

 

And to make coolant hose/standard VW hose clip removal a 5 minute job, this is money well worth spending http://www.toolbox.co.uk/draper-combination-pliers-0-69301?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase

 

------------------------------

 

Neuspeed are either 70'C or 77'C. 70'C will as said previously, keep the engine in the cold map. That should be used with modified ECU mapping to suit and a lower temperature rated fan switch that goes in the radiator end near the battery. 77'C will just make it run a tad cooler than the figures I posted earlier.

 

.

[robo22sri 10]

I rang TPS for prices on bits!

 

They want nearly £30 for a stat £30 for the yellow coolant sensor and £20 for the blue one!

 

---------- Post added at 6:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:06 PM ----------

 

where can i get the blue and yellow sensor from?

 

and why does the 701 919 369 D come up with black not yellow sensor on google

 

Oh an my rad fan switch is blue and 3 pin triange type! but cant find sod all about that argh!

[Jim Bowen 1]

think gsf do the sensors am sure they weren't as much as £20

[Gti_Jamo 10]

Hey I was directed over here by someone off scottishvag, i'm having the exact same problem with my 92' Golf VR6. Bought it a week ago and while moving it never gets above 70 degrees but fine when stationary, changed the thermostat, flushed out the system but it made no difference.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You need to compare the VCDS reading from the blue temp sensor to the dash guage. A healthy VR runs quite cool on the cruise, around mid 80s water temp this time of year. That's barely above 70 on the guage on mine. Sometimes it's just a lazy yellow sender (now black) and / or dash gauge.

 

But as RW1 says, if it's taking ages to warm up and the air temp from the heaters is only luke warm, then it's definitely over cooling.

[OllieVR6 0]

You need to compare the VCDS reading from the blue temp sensor to the dash guage. A healthy VR runs quite cool on the cruise, around mid 80s water temp this time of year. That's barely above 70 on the guage on mine. Sometimes it's just a lazy yellow sender (now black) and / or dash gauge.

 

But as RW1 says, if it's taking ages to warm up and the air temp from the heaters is only luke warm, then it's definitely over cooling.

 

I've been meaning to ask about this. I have VCDS lite, it doesn't appear to display any temp readings at all. Are there some instructions somewhere?

[Gti_Jamo 10]

After taking mine for a run I can touch all the pipes, pull of the cap off the expansion tank and it even appears my thermostat has shut due to low temps. The faster I go the cooler it gets. I just ordered a laser temperature gun should be here tommorow. Give me an idea of actual temps at different areas of the system.

[robo22sri 10]

Well I ordered all new sensors from AVS strangely they list the 4 pin yellow as blue on the website!

 

He said it replaces part number that the yellow one is though!!

 

Kev what is a good vagcom for a laptop not stupidly expensive as I won't use it much