Problems winding piston back. Please help !!!

[feeenix14 10]

Hello there,

 

Im trying to chane my rear discs pads bearings and all that stuff, everything was going fine until i came to winding the piston back in.

 

I have the correct tool but it wont flipping budge, i opened the bleed nipple but do i need to open the cap for the brake fluid too? And i just read about the brake bias valve needing to be locked open. Where is it and how do you lock it open?

 

Could the calliper be seized ?

 

Please help as my rage is boiling over !!

[Jim Bowen 1]

I struggle with this as well. Lent the tool to a mate and a neighbour and worked perfectly and easily on their cars. Mondeo and transporter. I ended up buying new calipers and not yet needed to wind them back.

[Dox 23]

You don't have to have a rewind tool, push / turn / push / turn works all be it's a bit of a fiddle. I use an angle grinder key to turn and a G clamp to push the piston in. Rotate 180 degrees then push, rotate again etc. It takes a couple of mins per side with practice

[feeenix14 10]

Should i give it a soaking of wd40 overnight ?? And see if it moves at all tomorrow. Because it isnt moving at all !! Not even a flipping millimetre !!

[delfinis38 1]

Should i give it a soaking of wd40 overnight ?? And see if it moves at all tomorrow. Because it isnt moving at all !! Not even a flipping millimetre !!

 

have you tried putting a g clamp over your brake load compensator. it will increase the fluid flow back up the reservoir. it's on the passenger side of the rear axle. some people tie wrap it down after taking the spring out but I've never been able to do it hence the g clamp suggestion

Edited November 17, 2013 by delfinis38

[vw rule 19]

Hello there,

 

yeah you can use some WD40,

just spray it under the dist / damp boot,

just to make sure it penetrates down between the piston and inner caliper chamber wall.

 

The piston should wind in like DOX says,

by turning it 90 or 180 degrees at a time.

Plus you can do what DELFINIS38 has said regarding the compensator valve,

but if you've opened the bleed nipple it should then wind in as the pressure has been released,

but only if the piston isn't seized up.

 

If you still have no jay at moving the piston in,

then it'll be the inner seals have hardened which can grip on the piston fairly tight,

coursing it to move at a much slower rate or not at all.

Or the outer sides of the piston that slide with in the caliper will be rusted,

or the inner walls of the caliper chamber could be corroded.

 

Plus the large spiral thread in the piston and on the retaining shaft could be rusty slightly,

again not allowing the piston to wind in as it could be seized on the threads.

 

I take it your caliper handbrake lever is free and is moving,

plus is the cable still attached, if so is it tight or sized,

because that is the other thing that can affect the piston in the rear calipers.

 

Other then that you'll have to obtain new rear caliper / calipers,

or strip them down and fit a new seal kit.

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si

[corradlo 0]

sorry to hijack this thread, but im in the middle of rebuilding my rear calipers, I have them stripped etc... with new seals ready to go in after powder coating, however im a little stuck. How do you remove the handbrake mech bracket? its the one attached with a 13mm nut. I have managed to remove the other bracket, but this spring loaded one does not come off, even with the bolt removed. It does move and the handbrake assembly does work though.

 

Thanks again