VR6 tensioner query

[Blounter 10]

Heard a odd noise earlier and noticed the alternator belt was frayed and the tensioner sounded noisy. I'm sure there are posts regarding the belt change,but does the tensioner need a bolt in the threaded hole at the top? There seems a lot of movement on the right hand side of it?

 

 

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[robrado974 1]

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong , but I think it's supposed to be without a bolt ? . Mine is the same .

[easypops 8]

Yes, you use a fairly long bolt(cant remember size) to release the tension, its not meant to be in there permenantly. If its making noise its likely that the bearing in the pulley is on its way out, my advice is to sort it ASAP as i left mine and it destroyed itself. The bearing itelf is very cheap as long as you feel confident enough to swap it out.

I'll away and find a link to the bearing for you

[Jim 2]

Changing the bearing is extremely easy. I'm a complete wuss when it comes to spannering on my car but I did this repair about 15,000 miles / 3 years ago and it's been fine ever since. Someone even, very thoughtfully, turned it into a Wiki article :)

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_belt_tensioner_pulley_repair.html

[MarkFoster 0]

Further to Easypops post, it's a M8 bolt you need to release the tension.

[easypops 8]

Well done guys......didn't know that was in the wiki :)

[Jim 2]

It needs to be a really long M8 bolt too, to clear the fuel lines that sit right above the tensioner. They ideally want to be at least 4-5 inches.

[Blounter 10]

Cheers for all posts……..yeah just found a post regarding the M8 bolt to release the tension so will have a go tomorrow. Tensioner and belt seem quite new though? Is it normal for the right hand side of tensioner to 'spring' back and forth,I presume so?

[Jim 2]

If you could upload a video illustrating the problem it'd be helpful! :)

[Blounter 10]

If you could upload a video illustrating the problem it'd be helpful! :)

 

Good call! leave it with me

[Dox 23]

Don't leave the bearing too long, I've got Grimmys old storm in the garage, engine cooked due to the seizure of the bearing in the tensioner, the plastic pulley melted to the bearing and massive over heating - coolant sprays out of the spark plug holes when cranked.

[VAG-hag 0]

Give me a shout if you want a spare tensioner to work on to exchange.

[Blounter 10]

Give me a shout if you want a spare tensioner to work on to exchange.

 

Cheers

[Blounter 10]

Hers vid of tensioner. Doesn't sound to bad really. Not sure on movement. Notice that the belt slightly,one rib,overlaps end of alternator pulley though?

 

[video=youtube_share;Y5hnvE71kHI]

[Blounter 10]

ignore rough idle at end,air box removed

[Jim 2]

Doesn't look like the right belt.. there's no way it should overlap on the pulley. I reckon it must be the bearing going that's causing the vibration in the tensioner. Best thing is just to remove it and have a look - will only take 5 minutes to get off the car. And definitely change that belt!!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Notice that the belt slightly,one rib,overlaps end of alternator pulley though?

 

Looks like the alternator pulley alignment is off, which is probably what's frayed your belt and causing the tensioner to flap about like that. Either that or there's something odd with the belt. Count the ribs. There should be 7.

 

Is it a proper Corrado alternator?

 

Speaking of flapping about, that video demonstrates quite nicely why you shouldn't just replace the bearing. Over time the springs go weak lose control over the tension. Personally, I would replace the whole tensioner if you don't know it's history. I know it's not cheap, but it will ensure the belt is kept at the right tension. If it's a recent tensioner, then by all means just do the bearing but 100K plus, I'd be sticking a new unit on personally!

[Jim Bowen 1]

You can remove one of the three bolts that holds the tensioner on and it fits into that hole to release the tension.

 

Will be adding a new tensioner to my list then. Had planned to use an old one. The metal spring is pretty massive gauge so I thought it would be ok.

[Blounter 10]

Doesn't look like the right belt.. there's no way it should overlap on the pulley. I reckon it must be the bearing going that's causing the vibration in the tensioner. Best thing is just to remove it and have a look - will only take 5 minutes to get off the car. And definitely change that belt!!

 

Yeah cheers will have a scan tomorrow. Its been on a pit for most of the evening with blowing exhaust so hands covered in s**t anyway. ha! Passed Mot yesterday (just!) so not to down hearted. only needed rear brake pipes,steering gaiter,battery not secured,no cat,abs light not working……………..:bonk:

[Blounter 10]

alternator ,belt and tensioner replaced by previous owner approx 13mths ago…………..correct parts though? answers on postcard pls

[Kevin Bacon 5]

There is only 1 tensioner and only 1 belt (unless you have A/C), so the alternator is therefore the like suspect as there's a few different ones that fit VR6s. How many ribs on the alternator pulley? May only be 6 if the belt is over-hanging, which means it could be a 4Motion / R32 alternator.

[Blounter 10]

There is only 1 tensioner and only 1 belt (unless you have A/C), so the alternator is therefore the like suspect as there's a few different ones that fit VR6s. How many ribs on the alternator pulley? May only be 6 if the belt is over-hanging, which means it could be a 4Motion / R32 alternator.

 

 

Cheers kev. will check tomorrow in daylight………..and kopparberg is going down a treat at the mo. Euro parts do a Dayco belt,any views? Cant find one on GSF site

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Good man! Car problems are always less severe when drinking :)

 

I've used pattern belts in the past and they made some interested clattering noises after a few thousand miles. The OEM belt is the best but it's over 50 quid I think and they never keep them in stock.

[Blounter 10]

Think I'll try a meyle one

[Blounter 10]

1290 sounds right length wise? no A/C