Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 19, 2015 Thinking about starting or attempting to start the Corrado tomorrow. Engine is new. Fuel tank drained and new fuel lines. From what I've read or got from other people i was planning to do: Disconnect the two sensor wires at front if engine by the front mount. Black and white plugs. And then turn engine over on starter motor to build oil pressure. Some places say to remove spark plugs while doing that? Then connect everything up. Let fuel pump prime and then start it (hopefully) Then do i let it idle at all? Or do i hold the revs at 2000rpm for up to twenty minutes? Bit unsure really. But want to be sure i get it right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harrier 1 Posted September 19, 2015 Definitely build up oil pressure with plugs removed, you don't want fuel being injected while you do this or sparks from plug leads so un-plug ECU. Vary revs for a bit while checking for leaks etc Good luck :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 19, 2015 Has it got new cams? If so the manufacturers usually recommend not idling but holding 2K rpm for 20 mins. What oil are you using? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 19, 2015 The cams aren't new. Have used them before. But new head and lifters. Using fuchs semi synthetic 10w40. Then switching to the vw syntha silver. Phoned vince at stealth and he said it world be alright. Quite hard to find mineral oil in the correct grade. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
science 0 Posted September 19, 2015 When I did mine... To build up the oil pressure I turned it over a few times by hand with a spanner on the crank bolt (battery disconnected). Pulled the fuel and ECU relays and turned it over on the key for 5-10 secs. Replaced the relays and started her up and held 2000-2300rpm varying slightly for 20mins (new cams). And the controversial bit... Took it out for half hour with some hard acceleration and decel runs up to about 4000rpm, to build up gas pressure to seal the piston rings. Change oil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 19, 2015 Fingers crossed for a good result :) It will be a nerve wracking time no doubt after all the time effort and money spent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 20, 2015 Hope it all goes well for you Jim . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 20, 2015 Well it all went to plan. Everything worked and started first time after priming oil and fuel. Sounds great. Runs great. Just letting it cool off then going to look it over for any leaks etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted September 20, 2015 Well it all went to plan. Everything worked and started first time after priming oil and fuel. Sounds great. Runs great. Just letting it cool off then going to look it over for any leaks etc It must be a huge relief, really pleased for you :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted September 20, 2015 Glad it all went well mate, maybe I'll see it at some point?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie 1 Posted September 20, 2015 Well in mate. You must be buzzing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted September 20, 2015 Good stuff Jim, you deserve a beer. I hope your cheeks are aching from all that grinning. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted September 20, 2015 Nice one Jim , pleased for you . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 21, 2015 Cheers people. Certainly a big moment for me. Got a few issues. Only started it the once so far. Brake lights were constantly on. Found the pedal not coming back far enough to hit the switch. Might be to do with the teves20 master cylinder swap. Temporarily extended the switch for now. Abs light is lit up. Maybe related to tge switch. Not too worried at the moment. May just need to drive it. Had a leak and convinced myself it was head gasket not sealed. I used arp studs and was mention on internet of not needing to retorque them. But i thought I'd do it anyway just to be sure. So been busy today. Think the coolant leak was actually from the hose joining to back of the head. When i took plugs out today (after running it yesterday) i thought i could see either petrol or oil in cylinder 1. That's partly why i retorqued the head. Was only a small amount of fluid as i sucked it out of cylinder. Not really sure what it was as was such a small amount. Starting it again tomorrow so will see what happens. Ran fine with no smoke from exhaust. But quite a bit from near exhaust manifold. Did cut out though when fans cut in. Dash gauge still reads low. Will try with vagcom tomorrow. At least i know it runs. Or did do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites