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Roger Chatfield

Adjusting the clutch

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Is there a way of adjusting the VR clutch, mine has a very low bite point.

Now I realise it's hydraulic so should not need adjusting but wondered if anyone had...?

 

Rog.

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Went through this myself recently. Bled the slave cylinder (down at the gearbox) ensuring that the fluid is overfilled from the start. This improved the bite point a little bit.

 

However, what I did notice was that the pedal flapped about at the very top of the stroke by about 1" regardless. A few weeks later the peddle dropped to the floor.

 

So changed slave cylinder with no joy, then changed the master. bled it and instant perfection. No more droopy peddle and the bite point was about half way down.

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im 99% sure it cant be adjusted, is the clutch slipping at all? when you say low bite point , you do mean its only biting when the clutch is almost fully released? or its biting straight away the moment its just off the floor? just be to clear

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I'm having a issue with my clutch not sure if it's the same issue but I have to really push down on the clutch to stop the gears grinding at low speed esp going into reverse. It feels like the pedal needs to be brought up a touch.

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I mean I have to push the pedal down a lot to get it to disengage and the bite point is low, towards the bottom of the travel.

 

I may pull the pedal all the way up and hold it up with a strap and then bleed it, so if it makes a difference.

 

Rog.

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It can also be a sign of the clutch fork bending, i've had it happen twice now.

 

What is involved with changing the clutch fork? Is it a big job?

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It entails removing the gearbox and changing the fork.

50 Euro off eBay in Germany.

Vr has a higher clamping load than the G60's pressure plate, whilst you in there maybe uprate yours with the vr's version.

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It's always done it, I've just bled it so hopefully it will be better.

 

One thing I'm thinking about is removing the clutch actuator and adding some metal to the rod, maybe a sleeve that slips over the top of the rod.

 

Rog.

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Which could cause the clutch not to release properly, and possibly knacker/overheat your clutch's release bearing prematurely..

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I'd only for say 10mm, if anything it would cause the clutch to slip.

I'm thinking that maybe a closed end tube that slips over the rod, I could then add shims inside the tube.

It would be faff to keep removing the actuator to add the shims but I could then set the clutch bite just where I want it.

 

Rog.

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The clutch slipping would be as veedubbed says, the clutch not releasing properly. Which would over heat the clutch and put excess wear on the release bearing.

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Sorry, to add to that, shimming as you describe would only cure something if the slack is at the clutch end (ie fork bent). Which is only delaying the inevitable of having to drop the box and sort the fork. If the slack is elsewhere in the hydraulics etc then shimming will prematurely wear the clutch components, leading to dropping the box sooner rather than later anyway to change the whole clutch.

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Just to add, I've realised that I've not bled the master cylinder, I've only done the slave so hopefully that might help.

Also, I'm wondering if this is normal, is the bite point actually meant to be low.

 

Rog.

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The bite point on mine is probably further down the travel than I'd prefer, but hadn't really thought about it specifically until now. I've never tried bleeding mine.

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Just to add, I've realised that I've not bled the master cylinder, I'm wondering if this is normal, is the bite point actually meant to be low.

 

Rog.

 

my bite point is low too, at a guess idd say around 2 inchs of lift before its biting?

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Clutch fork problem gets worse quite quickly i found. Clutch would bite almost on the floor and be quite abrupt. Plus it was hard to get in gear.

 

Does pumping the pedal a few times change the feel at all? That might help tell if it needs bleeding.

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No, pumping makes no difference, TBH I'm thinking it may be normal, it bites about 2" from the floor which is the same as someone said earlier.

 

Just put new engine, box and clutch in mine, the old clutch was working ok but did look well past it's best when took out, think was bout 2 inch from floor bite point, I report back if changes with new clutch (when get this new engine fired and running, see engine bay post, hopefully on weekend)

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I changed my floor mats recently and have now found getting in to gear especially 1st and reverse required loads of pressure on the clutch pedal and the biting point seems to be from minimal travel from the floor and it's constantly crunching. I always remember it biting nearer the floor end of travel but find it better without the new mat. I'm interested in finding a solution to this.

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I changed my floor mats recently and have now found getting in to gear especially 1st and reverse required loads of pressure on the clutch pedal and the biting point seems to be from minimal travel from the floor and it's constantly crunching. I always remember it biting nearer the floor end of travel but find it better without the new mat. I'm interested in finding a solution to this.

 

Have you tried wearing clogs? Can help with a heavy clutch.

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