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tonylam

NEW Corrado owner. Starting problem

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Hi All. I am a new owner of a 1993 VR6 Corrado. Its a bit of a find and has not run for 4 years.

 

it did 26 miles after being last serviced then was put to bed.

 

The oil is like it just can from the can. there have been no fluid leaks over the years.

 

I have drained the fuel out and replaced it. and fitted a nice new battery.

 

The engine turns over easily but would not start. i have checked and confirm i am getting ignition. there is fuel flowing to the injectors. still nothing. i have sprayed fuel into the air intake and the vehicle runs. i have read that the crank sensor could be failing to provide a signal so have replaced this. I have checked the fuses and reseated the relays......still nothing.

 

what am i overlooking?

 

oh one thing i have noticed. when i switch the ignition on the water pump is running!!! not sure they are related but i thought id mention it. i have a snap on souls pro which connected the the 2x2 diagnostic which is showing the 0513 g28 no signal code but i read that is normal when they don't start??

 

any help appreciated. i want to get this cool car back on the road where she belongs

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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Welcome to the forum - might be worth checking the plugs aren't oiled up...

 

If it's a distributor model have you checked the rotor arm and cap?

 

I'd try a new ECU relay and also consider get a new ignition switch if it's not got the newer (black 6NO) type fitted.

 

Have you tried shaking the key when it the crank position? (sometimes starts if switch is faulty)

 

Is there an aftermarket alarm fitted? maybe a fuse somewhere you can't see.

 

The G28 error is normal for that engine as you say when not running so ignore that for now.

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Lucky you, the auxiliary water pump should be running as soon as the ignition is on, and sometimes will over run with the fans if the engine is above a certain temperature.

Good luck with starting it

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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Thanks for the comments.

 

Supercharged

its not a distributor model but I will replace the ECU Relay, thanks.

 

Cressa thanks for the info on the auxiliary water pump. I was beginning to think is had short on that circuit

 

My gut is telling me it may be the Cobra Thatcham alarm. It seems to be operating but it has an immobiliser module which cuts into the fuel injection system. I am stripping it back to remove this connection with a hope that will get the injectors firing.

 

I will post the end result on here

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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No nothing happening. stripped the immobiliser module out and same as before. I am guessing now that it could be a fault on the ECU.

 

The car had the scuttle trays removed so is most likely has gotten wet. there does not appear to be any issues with water ingress but you never know.

 

Does anyone have a 021 906 258 AG eco lying about or can anyone recommend an ECU tester/repair/refurbish company with a good reputation. I am in the NW of England but would post if required.

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Hi supercharged.

 

The relay appears to be working. relay 109 whilst having 4 pins is only a 3 pin relay. Pin 85 is ground and pin 30 is the mag circuit positive. when the circuit is energised the current from 30 runs across to pin 87.

 

The ignition also appears to be functioning. all electrical ignition on stuff is powered up on the key, windows, radio, light, sunroof, horn etc I did try the key wiggle

 

 

Robrado. Yes by ignition i mean the plugs do spark. when i spray petrol into the air intake the engine runs. it seems to be the fuel injectors are not firing.

 

still open to suggestions or if anyone have an eco i could try or indeed buy.

 

Tony

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Has anyone heard of the ECU Doctor in Plymouth. Anyone had experience of them?

 

Can anyone point me at a local firm in Lancashire?

 

Tony

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If you can talk to the ECU and get an error code back there is not likely to be anything wrong with it. It's not like it's a Pentium or anything. Check all the engine sensors that feed into the ECU for continuity and signal. Just my opinion. The Motronic ECU uses crank, cam, inlet temp, lambda, MAF and coolant temp (all I can remember for now) to make its decisions. Might also be worth getting your fuel pressure tested and checking for any air leaks. Oh and there's a throttle position sensor too.

Edited by fendervg

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Hi guys. Can i ask, how does the fuel get to the rail and how is it pressurised?

 

when i switch on the ignition i cannot hear an electric fuel pump running. when i release the fuel rail relief screw, no fuel flows out. however, when i try and start the engine fuel squirts out. Is the fuel pumped electrically or mechanically??

 

 

Tony

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Its electrically from an in-tank fuel pump. First things first though, pop off your fuse box cover and check the fuel pump relay (above the fuses). You should hear/feel it "ping" as it energises. This makes the circuit to the pump, and you should hear a light hum as the pump primes. The relay is a common failure item, so worth checking if you're getting no fuel. It should be numbered 67, or 167 depending on date of manufacture.

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Electric pump under the boot floor in the petrol tank. It should run at 4 bar. Test your fuel pressure at the rail and check your fuel pressure regulator on the right hand side of the rail. You might have a problem with residual pressure due to a leak somewhere. You won't hear a good pump prong or running, but the relay should energise as above. Most of the info is there.

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Quick update and another question.

 

Fuel pressure is 4.2 bar. The fuel pump is quite quiet but appears to be working well. Relays are working. i find myself focussed on the firing of the injectors again. I have taken the plenum chamber off and removed a couple of the injector connectors. i am measuring 12volts across the terminals as soon as the ignition comes on. Is this right. i had expected the voltage to be zero and pulse as the injector fired.

 

any advice?

 

Thanks

 

Tony

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Are your injectors leaking or have worn seals? Not sure about the voltage, but maybe your engine is flooding. You should also have about 3 to 3.5 bar residual pressure at the rail after an hour so of the engine off. It could be a dodgy ECU but maybe the injectors open when there is no voltage? I'm not sure.

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found this on another forum

 

The injector pulse is a ground and not + voltage. The injector harness should have a +12 constant voltage. If I recall correctly, the ECU ground which pulses has resistance to a chassis ground and you may get 4.8 volts by not checking to an ecu ground instead of abattery ground.. been so long since I worked at audi that I don't remember all of the elsa specs on checking the computer. Do check the cam speed sensor and make sure it too is getting its signal to the ECU.

 

 

also the residual pressure is dropping rather quickly. drops to zero after approx 5 mins. no obvious leaks. do the residual pressure regulators breakdown?? leak fuel back

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You should fit a non return valve on the feed hose just above the pump in the boot. If you search my old threads for fuel pump and pressure on here there's loads of info and links. Btdt

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Hi everyone. i will be putting a non return valve os the fuel line, thanks for the tip.

 

 

The good news is she lives. I replaced the ECU.

 

 

i had been turning the motor over on the key for the past week whilst trying various options so i could see oil at the head. I connected the replacement ECU and with fingers crossed turned the key. she started on the key with me outside of the car. Fabulous

 

She was a bit tappetty at first. Well 5 years of nothing will do that. I let her idle till the motor warmed up and the oil found its way to the hydraulic followers but she has settled down well and is purring.

 

Well pleased

 

as soon as i work out why i cannot post some images ill get some uploaded

 

thanks for the input.

 

tony

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