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Popeye775

Dying Problem

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Hey guys,

 

So this is a new problem I haven't been able to find on the forum. My Corrado likes to die on occasion. You can't really tell when it is going to die, there aren't really any signs. At first I thought it could be a fuel problem, so I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump. But, it is still doing it. I recently noticed that it tends to die when it gets to about 185 degrees. Not sure exactly what it could be. My lights stay on, so it doesn't seem like the car is losing power from the battery at all either.

 

Much Appreciated!

Edited by Popeye775

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its the standard temp gauge in the car. Whenever it gets around half way, the car dies and just shuts off. I assumed it was around 185 just because it has a 160 reading and then a 230 reading so I guessed as to where that temp could be.

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I assume it's a US car, so the temp gauge will be in Fahrenheit!

 

Does the car restart ok when it stops?

Is there erratic idling as well?

Does it just cut out when it's running/driving along, or does it happen when you dip the clutch or come to a stop/slow down at junctions?

 

I've had some funny behaviour like this when the engine is hot, in particular some faulty wiring to the hall sensor on the distributor that wad caused by a cracked connector heating up and losing contact - it might be worth checking all your loom connectors for damage. Sometimes you also get a vacuum leak that only manifests itself when the engine is up to temp as all the pipes and rubber and plastic will expand, making the leaks worse.

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It is a US car! It use to do it when I would put my foot in the clutch but oddly enough it stopped once I changed the fuel filter and now only does it when it gets up to temp. The idle is ok, not really erratic. The car does restart once this happens that’s why I found it to be very weird

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When you replaced the pump and the filter did you also change the relay under the dash, if not I’d try that next and the ignition switch on the end of the barrel

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Worth checking the crank sensor too. You should be able to see it at the front of the motor near the bottom left side. It has a hex bolt holding it in and is at a right angle to the motor. Its very common for the plastic to become brittle and crack at the right angle, and cause cutting out when it gets hot. It usually doesn't re-start until temps are down, but worth checking. Other things to check are the throttle damper. Just twist the butterfly valve to open the throttle, and watch it close. It should soft close toward the end to ensure revs don't flat out.

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It is very common that some VR6s wind up stalling when you drop the clutch on the way up to a junction (i.e. during overrun). I think this is actually caused by a number of underlying issues. One I've heard reported is the idle control valve being sticky. Clean it out, or replace it. Another I've heard is inlet/exhaust manifold leaks causing misfuelling (and associated error codes) as well as causing the stalling. I'm sure there's likely other possible causes too.

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There is a damper on the throttle body, looks like a small flying saucer with a piston which stops the throttle butterfly from slamming shut. Check that it is lowering the butterfly gently to its closed position. Replace it if necessary, (very easy so long as you can find a good replacement.

 

Check the multi wire connector for the injectors is tight and the contacts are clean. It is a round connector with a fat loom of wires coming out of it on the right side of the cylinder head as you look into the engine bay from the front.

 

Next idea is to have your injectors professionally checked for flow rate and spray pattern, and cleaned if necessary.

 

Check for any vacuum leaks throughout the induction system, perished pipes and loose clamps etc.

 

This is a very common problem with the VR6 engine, but speaking from experience it can eventually be solved so keep us up to date with progress.

 

best wishes

 

RB

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Quick update for you guys! I just got around to doing a little looking around because I just got a lot of snow where I am at. I may have a little bit of a vacuum leak on an intake hose, but the wiring to the hall sensor does look ok right now. Could this also be an issue with a dirty EGR valve by chance?

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Vacuum leaks are definitely a probable cause. Dirty EGR not sure, I don't think we have those on the UK cars.

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Just noticed my EGR has been deleted anyways haha. I am going to try replacing this hose, and look into if there is a crack on my crank case sensor

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Hey guys so quick update. Haven't had a lot of time to work on finding the issue. Lots of snow and heavy rain coming down here. Anyways, I am having a little trouble trying to find my crankcase sensor. If anybody could lead me to where to look for it that would be great! I tried looking where somebody had commented it was earlier in this forum, but still couldn't see it exactly. Any help would be great!

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Hey Guys, quick update. I ordered a new distributor and a new ignition coil. I'm going to replace both and hope for the best at this point. Hopefully will have an update by Sunday!

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