Dubcharged

When the hose is on the wrong side of the bypass valve, at idle it will see zero boost and zero vac so the ecu will over fuel (as if you are driving with partial throttle and boost gauge moves from vac to zero). When you floor it, the bypass butterfly is closed and so that side of the system will not see any boost built up in the inlet manifold, so your ecu will still think its off boost and wont fuel properly whilst your engine is seeing boost and getting VERY lean. Hence your hot manifold. You're lucky you didnt do major damage. Basically you will overfuel when under vac, and under fuel under boost cos the ecu wil always see zero net pressure.

I wouldn't recommend you try that one! With the ecu hose on the wrong side of the butterfly valve, the ecu always sees zero boost and so fuels as if it was zero boost. If you floor it and get positive pressure (boost) into the engine, it will become incredibly lean since fuelling will be for zero boost! :cry:

Yep, do not put a smaller pulley on without upgrading the chip. You wont get the appropriate fuelling for the extra boost! The 68mm is a good starting point, then later on you can go for a 65mm and bigger injectors to compensate for the extra boost/power which the standard injectors will struggle to handle.

Welcome to the forum mate! A chip and 68mm pulley would be a great 1st step to wake the G60 up. As mentioned, you can get an SNS chip from GWerks, Pitstop, or direct through myself. If you are close to the south coast then a visit to the above companies is a good bet.

The Co Pot will only adjust idle and some part throttle driving. The only way to correct the fuelling under full throttle to redline is by either altering the fuel map on the chip or by changing the pressure on the regulator etc.

No probs mate, pm sent.

Hi Mate Yes these are still available, I have one left in stock. They are useable for any car with a lambda sensor. I've pm'd you with the price. Cheers

Remove the bypass hose from the throttle body to the charger and you'll have a dump valve type sound each time you change gear (under boost).

Well.........whichever makes you happiest :D

No Problem Alex, glad to help! We can always bump the timing up after 4500rpm if you're feeling brave!? As long as mr pinky doesnt rear his head it should be fine!

A less restrictive intake filter ie large cotton gauze cone filter, with a good heat shield would compliment a chip and pulley. Your car will be a new beast with a bit more boost from a smaller pulley and more importantly a correct chip.

Hi Guys I've posted this on another forum and thought you guys would also be interested. Basically i'm running some CFD analysis on optimising induction kits. Here are some initial results with comparing a cone with a straight backing to a cone with a curved backing: Obviously the curved backing will have less turbulence and a better velocity distribution but its interesting to just be able to visually see it: Velocity Vectors: Pressure: Enjoy! Please tell me what kind of results you would like to see for an induction kit. Bilal

Hi Guys Just thought i'd add my experience with Civic Type R's. A work mate of mine had one and he knew how to drive it to make the most of the VTEC, we used to "compare" his car with my mk2 Golf GTi 8v (with a few mods - nothing major). We did this on several occassions driving home from work on a "straight quiet dual carriagway in the middle of some countryside with no residential spots for miles around". Anyway, we'd both start in 2nd at about 30mph and with the "right conditions" go WOT. The results which were the same each time we tried: Absolutely level all the way to 75-80mph then the Type R would pull away as if i was standing! Bascially a couple of things: the GTi would run out of efficient head flow due to the pre-cross flow 8v and the Type - R would come into its best range as the camshaft switches with the VTEC and above 80mph is where this thing really shows its strength. SO, Type-R, great car which could give a lot of performance cars trouble above 80mph. A well sorted G60 should be able to pull away from the civic below 80mph and maintain above.

Hi mate, got your email. Basically the closer the sensor is to the engine the better, usually the position of the standard lambda is good. You could stick it up the exhaust (ensure an earth if needed) but as mentioned, your results will be diluted, ie not as rich as the engine is seeing. If you use the existing lambda hole then make sure you disconnect the harness of the standard lambda to the ecu when you take that out(follow the wires up and you'll see the connector). Discnnecting the standard lambda will mean ecu wont get signal to trim fuel on idle and part throttle but that wont matter since you are only looking for the results under full throttle. Take the car out and floor it from say 2500 rpm all the way to red line in 3rd gear. You should get an air fuel plot which stays within 12:1 to 13:1. You cant trim this with the CO pot effectively since that only works within a boundary. If there are any big rich spots causing a flat then i can tweak your chip to take out the fatness. However if there is a big rich spot due to injectors tripping to 100% duty then you basically need to to bigger for more control. (I doubt this is the case with yours though). Let me know how you get on.

Nice FMIC will be the best thing. You could remove the boost return anyway since you only need a couple of cheap parts ie breather filter and blanking plate.

Nice kit, raddo's are in much need of effective cooling. Just wondering why you opted for the dual pass design over the single pass? What sort of pressure drop is there on the 180 degree turn in the intercooler?

There should be a notch on one end of the chip, line this up with the notch on the chip socket.

Hi guys and Girls Its been a while since i've been on this forum (or any other) but its good to see this forum going from strength to strength! Big apologies for not being able to be as active as i used to be here, doing a PhD has been taking its toll! I sold my MK2 Golf Gti runabout recently too and i now realise how great that car was! There seem to be a lot of new members here with G60's, hope you guys have woken up those beasts and loving every moment!! :D

Hi everyone I have posted this on another forum and feel it is important that you all should know for the safety of your motor. It has come to our attention that some "companies" are offering SNS Chips and No Lag chips. We have seen a few customers claiming to have an SNS chip but in fact was a generic German made chip. This could be a potentially dangerous situation since our chips are not simple plug and play items, they are tailor made and if companies are selling generic chips made up to be No Lag/SNS then you dont know what you are buying! THE ONLY authorised dealers for SNS in the UK are Pitstop Developments and G-Werks. PLEASE report to me any company or person claiming to stock SNS chips or chips with No Lag coding since that technology is copywrited by us so they are either lying or stealing. Bilal

That pipe is used to direct cold ambient air into the filter. If the cda is just opening into the engine bay then it will draw air from the engine bay which is warmer.

I used the W6 DPO's then changed to the Iridum Denso ones at one step colder spec (conforms to the w5dpo). I think the Denso's were iw22 will have to check to confirm. These definately made a difference, probably not so much by being iridium but by being one step colder.

Hi mate As you are in the US, you should contact Sam or Danny about a chip. You can find relevant info at http://www.snstuning.com :D

Did you not replace your adjustable FPR with a bosch 3.5 bar one?

Wonder how much total boost he's getting, 2bar? nice!! Must be using hulk sized injectors and a modified ecu if not aftermarket. (wonder if he has digi-lag?!?!?!?! :lol: )

:lol: 58mm pulley with a chip upgrade :lol: I bet he's selling pistons on ebay too!