Dubcharged

Hello mate I'm in Newcastle nowadays so i could sort you out. Maybe you could bring the car to me and i'll give it a quick check and fit you a No Lag chip.

I usually advise people to go for the bigger injectors if they see more than 16psi which is usually on the 65mm pulley. Also if someone is cammed and ported then 15psi would warrant the bigger injectors. This is from my experience with writing the maps as i know how much we have to push the standard injectors at 1 bar boost on a standard block and head. Yes it is all about flow and the manifold pressure along with the mods (and some experience) give a good indication of this. But like i've said, its still a good idea to get new injectors anyway.

You can get a set from either myself or Darren. PM for a price.

Hey Henny, maybe you could make that link a sticky in the tuning thread since its all about understanding performance. Its a great way for people to understand the frequent (uninformed) agruments of power vs torque. 8)

Its always good to change those old injectors for a nice new set anyway, 10 year old injectors probably have had their day especially if you gonna be pushing them harder. Watch this space for the optimised red top chip! ETA 5 days :D

Hi Guys Here's a great explanation of BHP and Torque and their implications. Good reading!!! http://www.ls2.com/boggs/handt.htm

Ummmm, you said the M word!!

Thanks for the replies guys, thats exactly how i felt. All a bit wishy washy. Fortunately all the info you guys wanna see will be on the new site which is round the corner. In terms of 0-60 times, i need to get my car down to a 1/4 mile day to find out! 0-60 is a bit of a red herring due to the 2 gear changes but the 1/4 mile should be interesting But for power, well it is very car dependent, my rallye is pushing close to 200 at the wheels. The SNS benefits are more in the response and aggression but i wont get into all that, leave it for the website.

After much anticipation its out, photos are ok considering the dull conditions. I would have liked a bit more of a technical feature from all the info i provided but i guess its gotta be readable for the masses. Oh well all the tech info will be on the UK site which will be up in a matter of days. :roll:

You lot are so comforting! Managed to salvage it in the end. Got the wax off, then it rained again. I just cant be bothered now :x

Alloy pulleys sharpen up?!?! Yeah if the alloy they use has an element of swiss cheese! Alloy pulleys dont rust and are a lot lighter. Remember its a spinning weight.

:( :( :( just spent hours, washed the old Gti, then T-cut (needed it bad), then pre-polish, then applying the final wax . . . . . wax was on most of the car ready to buff off then the snow came down SUDDENLY IN A BIG WAY!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! I'm screwed, all that work :( gonna have to wait for it to dry and get all the messed up wax off. i'm going to sleep it off.

Welcome to the forum! So you want better throttle response and low down pull eh?!?! (I'm sure everyone's thinking - here he goes about the digi lag again) BUT ITS TRUE! Get rid of the digi-lag and voila, happier pistons, better response!

Now now boys!!!!! You can go for a 4.5 bar reg provided you upgrade the fuel pump, fuel lines, you'll need a metal fuel rail, and the injectors must be able to cope - standard ones will work for a while but the pintle will start to wear prematurely. Best thing to do if you wanna run big boost is to use low pressure and bigger injectors. Keeps everything happy. So 30lb with 3.5bar or our new development : 42lb with 3 bar - this will get us over that huge hurdle of injector max out. :)

Intercooled and charge cooled would give even lower boost temps. The lower the better!!

Thanks G-man, whatever they call the R1, its still "conservative" :lol:

R1 is just an enlarged inlet on the charger. It should have all the flow work done as per stage 4 too. So theyare both internally flowed, but the R1 just has a bored out inlet - not that much of a difference though. Interesting point about using water injection as opposed to an FMIC conversion. I'd like to see some tests on a raddo with the standard ic and water injection (aquamist) vs raddo with a big front mounted ic. The water injection is generally more expensive than an FMIC, so needs to be that much better to warrant the cost.

Hi Becky Best thing to do is take the tuning in steps. Dont worry about the g/box ratios yet, that can be done at a later stage if needed. First step is to get the charger rebuilt and flowed. Make sure the car is running well and replace the knock sensor, lambda sensor temp sensor if needed. Check you have the correct spark plugs - Bosch W6DPO (Platinums) Then go for the 68mm pulley and chip - preferably an SNS No Lag chip :) This step will also require a 3.5bar FPR and a smaller belt for the pulley. Enjoy the car while you think of the next step which could be smaller pulley - requiring bigger injectors, Front mounted intercooler, cam, etc etc. Basically dont go mad all at once, its better to take the tuning in steps so you can iron out any problems as you go. It will also give you an appreciation for the gains you make at each step.

I prefer to use a boost gauge since the MFA readings can be very innaccurate. 5-7psi is too low, what size pulley you running? Where did you connect the boost gauge to? Either you're using a HUGE pulley or your charger needs looking into OR you have a boost leak somewhere.

Whats your peak boost?? If you make over 16psi then it'll be time for something bigger. Also at high boost the fuelling lag becomes more critical.

Its not so much a performance increase, more of a performance "retainer" as the charger, ic, hoses dont get soaked with the heated re-circ boost. Also the oil doesnt dilute the octane during combustion so you'll be less likely to pink which would mean that the ecu wont need to retard as much. If you're worried about the oil as a lubricant, then get some lube spray off Pitstop/G-Werks. :)

Does the sound continue up the rpm? or does it stop over 1200? could just be something loose thats resonating at a particular rpm.

Optimium a/f ratio on a force induced car should be 11.5-12.5:1 under WOT, 14.7:1 is in closed loop, ie off full/partial throttle. Darren should be ble to sort you out with a suitable SNS map. Darren: Do a wideband just in case the injectors cant cope.

naah, just the usual. Should have some good rolling shots, had a flash going off in the car as i was driving! would have had to do some explaining if i crashed!!

Hi everyone I just got back from a photo shoot for PVW on my Rallye. Now i know some people especially non Golf owners are getting put off by the mag but unfortunately there arent many specialist mags to go for. Hopefully we'll be able to inject some much needed technical input into the mag. I think its gonna be in the April issue so it'll be out in March. Its time to educate the masses with our No Lag! :)