Dubcharged

Hi John You have a G60 without the charger?? Where is it? people usually use a 16v kr engine from a golf etc and change the appropriate bits for the conversion. you can use a charger on this since if you put a bigger pully on, the charger will spin less at a given rpm and so you can take the engine to 7k and keep the charger within its design limits. To get 200 bhp from your G60 you''ll need the charger firstly! Then get a 68mm pulley and chip to match, if you go for one of ours, you'll need a 3.5bar pressure regulator too. This should see you around 190 bhp. Then you should go for an exhaust system and camshaft which will take you over the 200 mark easily. Oh, and you need to get your charger rebuilt, and as you're doing this might as well get it flowed to allow faster build up of boost. :D

Sounds like you dont have enough forward lever movement to engage 2nd and 4th properly. Have a look at the stick and locate the two surfaces which come together to stop you pushing the stick forward enough for 2nd/4th. You might have to grind a couple mm off that surface to allow a bit more movement.

An 8v G60 will get you up to 250hp, you have to spend a lot of money to go over that, ie cross flow head etc. Weaknesses are the charger and fuel delivery. STock injectors max out after 15psi (16psi non-cam) and the Digi ECU doesnt help things with its infamous Digi-Lag.

I think this should be settled on a 1/4 mile strip Standard Vs Standard Modified (x pounds spent) vs modified (same money spent) Or even better, on a track, fastest lap times etc!! Maybe the Vr6 guys can take the G60 guys for a spin and vice versa, give each other a taste of all the above hype. I do like Vr6's for their "straight out of the box" presence. However, throw a grand at the VR6 and it purrs back, throw a grand at a G60 and it ROARS back !! But that is of course in my humbly biased opinion.

As some of you may know i am abroad at the mo, I left the UK and 2 days later i get a call telling me that some assh@le's nicked my sounds from my Gti!!!!! My Rockford 6*9's, Rockford Punch 6 channel Amp 360.6, 10 inch JL Audio W6 sub!!!!!!!!!!!! I am so pissed cos both the sub and amp are not available anymore!!!!! If anyone is offered these items, KICK HIS @SS!!!!!!!! :mad:

Stick a filter on the ISV and hang the boost return pipe on your wall as a souvenir!

Good choice if i do say so myself! Welcome to the forum James and prepare to get addicted to the G. We're all heavy users here, should really get a group therapy session going :lol: Get your G, whip off the charger and let Darren do his thang then you'll be ready for some fun. 8)

A giro valve is just a simple one way valve, it lets air in one way and stops air from going the other way. When put in front of the ISV it lets the ISV breath but then under WOT if your ISV is leaking boost, the giro will stop the leak. As i've mentioned before, you dont need it unless your ISV is leaky. :D

A giro valve prevents a leaky ISV from bleeding boost. You dont need one if your ISV is ok, easy way to check is disconnect it and clamp the hose, if you get more peak boost then your isv is leaking, if not then you dont need a giro valve. Leew: you dont need to modify your ecu to handle more than 1 bar, you can run over a bar and retain correct fuelling with a chip mapped to provide for this.

The soft limiter has been an ass to get right on the G60, almost there....

OK, the maf in the ECU actually has 200kpa stamped on it. However it gets unreliable after 1bar. We havent adjusted the sensor we've mapped for higher than 1bar using other parameters like rpm along with info from the maf. I was running 16psi all day on my 62mm and made sure the fuelling was correct by doing some wideband testing. The UK code is slightly different to hte US but only in terms of fuelling and timing, the No Lag coding is the same. Caios: You'll have top get a boost gauge to see what youre producing, i recommend a 268 cam to get more flow for that extra power leave the head flow for later. Also, with a 65mm pulley that airbox and the induction hose will restrict flow. We have a bunch of custom chips made for the 30lb injectors.

Hi!! 65mm pullies are great in my opinion, they get the most out of the charger up to 6200 safely. No point revving the engine past that as the power drops off after 6k ish anyway. As far as injectors are concerned, you'll only need to uprate them if you make at least 15psi with a cam (at least 16psi without) Peak boost. The replacements are 30lb injectors and fit straight in. No head work needs to be done. I can provide you with these if need be. When going for a smaller pulley make sure the charger and engine are in good nick!

On a standard G60 you probably wont notice much of a difference if any by using a big Cone filter since the charger is only spinning to produce around 0.7bar. Its when you start making around 1 bar and are approaching 200bhp (fly) that swapping the box and (horribly ridged) standard induction hose with a bigger filter with cold air feed will make a difference.

If your going for a smaller pulley ie you want more performance, you will be better off going for the 68mm. This will let you rev up to 6500 safely although you wont benefit from going much higher than 6200 with a cam. Make sure you get a chip matched to the pulley, you dont want to put a smaller pulley on by itself. I prefer going for the shorter belt since it ensures good tension and its always good to use a nice new belt, those standard ones are probably well past they're sell-by date (depending on when you've changed it)

Not necessarily, atmospheric air entering the induction track would be turbulent in nature thus the actual mass flow would be less than if it were of a relative laminar nature. Performance air filters due to the fine filtration, as well as keeping inlet air clean, also reduce the turbulence of atmospheric air and so the inlet track has a better mass flow rate. BMC filters are good, i use one on my GTi. They are very well designed, the ones you're talking about Rams is the CDA type, they also have stand alone cone filters which are very good as they have an inverted intake cone at the top too. Therefore the surface area from which to suck air from is significantly increased. They also have a venturi effect reducer on the inside which then connects to your inlet track. :D

Sounds like a great day out! Not sure about germany though, it'd cost me a fortune in petrol getting there and back! What UK venues did you have in mind?

I love being the under-dog! "Whats that?? a golf with some bodykit??!!!"

Yep, but its nice to mess with the minds of M3 owners sometimes :lol:

yep! I'm working on a kit at the mo. 8)

Our G60's aren't exactly that young anymore, so we're all getting some extent of oil vapour being thrown out of the breather and into the bypass pipe. This then goes into the charger/ic and then mixes with petrol in the combustion process. The amount of vapour is not consistent, you might get a plume of vapour one day due to heavy driving/conditions etc. Oil vapour adds to the inconsistency of performance since it makes the combustion less aggressive.

Never push someone who cant handle the heat. I never entertain the max power brigade, but you can always tell when there is a seasoned and well tempered person behind the wheel of a worthy motor.

Heat build up/Digi lag/excess blow by from breather

Thats true VR6Paul, but on a nice open road (private) at night, you get a decent idea of how another performance car with an up for it driver compares to yours. Track would be ideal though :D

W6DPO's are the best for G60's. Pricey but they last a long time, you dont need to change them every year at service time. Cheaper alternatives could result in poor running.

You got us there Scott, the G60 has crap gearing! However, i'm always up for a challenge! Bring it on 8)