Dilated

Yea I understand that, but say for example your coil pack "packs in" or whatever else could go wrong, might it be worth it for those situations? Obviously if something has gone when the cars at home, you get ya mate to tow it down the road then call em...

https://www.aamembership.co.uk/breakdow ... ?fn=decide Do you think this is worth the extra £52 a year considering the cost of corrado parts? Or you reckon not to bother because the garages will probabaly use cheap parts? Need an opinion on this really, cos i'm just gonna try sort out my breakdown cover for Inters! (yes I know i left it late... :roll: )

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10308 check that link out - bit of discussion about it there too! (granted I may have sent the thread off on a tangent with my ramblings! :oops: )

I would imagine it would have to bypass the circuitry for a transponder immobiliser, hence invalidating the thatcham grouping (if it's a thatcham immobiliser) - I'd have thought it would be possible, but I wouldn't advise it! Go speak to your local alarm fitters for advice.

I have a leaky steering rack, but mine is leaking from the centre joint (non serviceable i think) - think it might have had a jolt to one of the wheels in the past and foooked it. After ringing round a load of places for advice on seal replacement, I have been told that replacing the seals generally tends to solve the problem for a few months and then the leak usually starts again. New rack it is then! I bought one off ebay for £40, but i'm a bit worried about it, cos a) only been "told" it's not a leaky one, and b) it says USA on the bottom of it, althought it does look exactly the same as mine (not left hand drive!) so i'm confused. I slowed the leak with epoxy resin, but gonna get under there and properly sort it - maybe get a new rack down the line when i can afford it! So my advice (for what it's worth!) is to replace the whole rack!

I'm a web/multimedia/graphic designer. Work for a creative design agency in Leeds. Just finished some dvd work for adidas. Tend to work on all kinds of projects, mostly web at the moment but trying to get more into video/after effects work. Been doing it for 5-6 years now (since I left college) Didn't bother with a degree - glad now too, with looking at most of the graduates CV's/portfolios who apply here I think i'd walk a degree now!

Check for arcing around the plugs to the block. When my original HT leads packed up, i could hear it sparking away on one lead. I changed that one, but it still ran shite stuttering away. I was desperate so ended up buying a set from GSF (yes the BBT ones) and the car has run perfectly ever since. They do their job, but i know what you mean about being shit quality-wise, as when i was pushing them into the little ht lead guide runners it split the rubber on one lead ever so slightly. Wish I had known where to buy good ones from at the time though. (still have no idea to be honest!)

You joking about or serious? For it to be Thatcham certified, it has to be fitted by an approved fitter. However, you can fit it yourself, then take it to an alarm specialist for them to check over and sign off.

I think it also has a failsafe in there, switching the engine off after 30 mins or something (variable setting i think) if the alarm knows you haven't got in the car since starting it. So accidental starting isn't too much of a problem.(incidently i've never accidently started it yet anyway!)

kev, the car runs WITHOUT the keys in it, all locked up and alarmed. But yea, I see your point! I too heard a rumour that intellistart invalidates the Thatcham Cat1 status of the alarm. Still, the place I got mine done at still gave me the Thatcham certificate and mantioned nothing of the intellistart invalidating it.

I have a concept 500 with additional intellistart. The good thing about the cliffords is that there are so many possibilities of how they can be set up. For example mine works in this way: When i park - with the ignition on, i push two buttons together on the remote then take the key out of the ignition and get out of the car (with the engine still running). After I lock the car, a few seconds later the engine stops and the windows go up etc. Now, when i come back to the car, i just press the * button on the remote and she fires up. No possibility of starting in neutral, as it has to be in neutral for me to get out of the car with it running in the first place! It's also cool, as they have programmed it so that i can leave it running when i nip into the shop or something. Say i've only just set off and the engines cold, but I stop at the local shop and want to let the engine get warm while i'm in there. I press a button on my keyfob with the engine running, get out, taking my keys with me. Lock it all up (alarm on etc) and it just runs. No one can nick it as it still enables the steering lock to be on, the alarm is on and all locked up - and it has anti-hijack as standard to boot. Anti hijack is a bit of a pain in the ass as you have to put a short code in everytime you get in the car to drive off, but I felt it was wise to have where I live. (2 attempted car jackings before in me old motor! - live in bradford)

Champion, nice one chaps. I'll take a look at it asap then. :)

I had a feeling it's a belt slipping somewhere, because it would make sense that when it is warm it wouldn't slip as much due to the rubber being a little softer and more pliable? (and in turn gripping more) Is it easy to check the S belt? I know which belt you mean, but i haven't looked through the bentkey manual to see how to do it yet! Too many chains/belts/tensioners/etc etc in this engine. Makes my little 1.6 golf cab look like a childs meccano set!

Just edited my post!

The car has made this noise on cold starts since I have had the car (couple of months) and the previous owner said it did it all the time he owned it. ONce the car is warm, on startup it no longer makes the noise. The noise worries me, but i have no idea what it is. I have attached a little .avi file I just took tonight (aided by the Clifford Intellistart! :D)in the hope one of you knowledgeable chaps might have some ideas? Cheers! //edit - doesn't like the attachment so uploaded it here:- http://www.chrisl.net/corrado/noise.avi (1.14mb)

Just ordered 4 toyo proxy's from mytyres.co.uk for £182! Cheers for everyones help, i'm a crappy decision maker! Chris

hmmm, okay I think i'll take your advice guys thanks! One other thing though, now that i'm going to go for a full set - which tyre do you all think is the best for the standard rims? I have done a search but still don't know which to go with. Heard good things about Bridgestone potenza RE720, Eagle F1's and toyo proxys (cheapest one!) So any recommendations would be great cos i'm gonna order them asap! Cheers Chris

Hi all, I have to replace a tyre today, as one of my toyo's was punctured at the same time someone keyed the paint =[ With it being a bank holiday, most places seem to be closed. Motosave are open however, and they are saying they have some Yokohama A539's in stock in my size. Now, what I need some advice on is do I: a) buy 2 of these Yokohamas for about £148 fitted (!!??!!) or b) keep blowing the tyre up after every journey and wait for a full set of tyres to come from mytyres.co.uk sometime this week. I have 4 toyo proxy's on at the mo, but no one seems to deal in them round here. Also, my two front tyres are nearly bald, so it would make sense to change the whole set. Are the yoko's good? would people recommend these rather than some eagle f1's or some bridgestone's?

Went to a restaurant with the lady last night in Leeds and I parked down a quiet street with no one around but quite a few cars parked up, so it looked safe. Came back to the car after the meal, drove back home and noticed a scratch down the side of the car. It's only at the read quarter panel, semi deep in parts then lightn, then deep again - just starting before the fuel filler cap going accross it and a bit after it towards the rear lights. HOW ANNOYED AM I??? And to top it off I went to go out today and the back tyre was flat - took it down to kwik fit (only place open!) to get the tyre repaired if possible - but it turns out that there is a slight hole at the top of the sidewall. This size/shape/position of the hole leads me to believe this was also done last night. Looks like it has been punctured purposely. WELL ANNOYING! Jealousy is an awful thing. =[ Anyone have any tips on polishing the scratch out at all? I'll post pics later on when i get home tonight. Also, need to get hold of a toyo proxy tommorow in the leeds area?

While we're talking clutches, I have a couple of little queries... Sometimes, every once in a while when i get in the car on a morning the clutch pedal has dropped a little. It still changes gear but after a couple of days it sometimes becomes a little notchy. I solve this by pulling the pedal up with my toe, but this leaves the pedal really high up. I like it lower down as it usually is! The fluid is at the right level and not leaking anywhere. It's not so much of a problem, more of an annoyance. Could this be a case of fluid needing to be replaced?

Lest ye not jest prematurely young fellow, for behold the whitewalls of joy...

i thought i'd give it that old skool meets new skool look, ya know. Trendsetter i am chief. :lol: It was actually the rim, just went a bit funky - did say it was a rush job tho. heh Here a bigger pick of the rims: http://www.rusmich.tuning.cz/html/obraz ... lenium.jpg

Meh, its the end of the day and i'm going home - so excuse the roughness... At least it gives you an idea.

Thery look pretty fancy those do, in fact most of the audiobahn stuff looks quite fancy. (I'm good friends with the main distributor for the whole of the UK!) I haven't had 6x9's in my car since I was a youf - I tend to go for some top components up front, with decent mids - some mids in the rear quarters and a sub in the boot. 6x9's on the back shelf tend to pull the sound stage to the rear - and sound always sounds better coming from the front. But everyone's taste is different. Get a decent 4 channel amp and get some nice components up front too, should sound even better then!

IE is microshaft. Enough said. Try downloading the new version of Mozilla, from http://www.mozilla.org . It's open source and lots lots better than ie. just make it your default browser and be done with the evil that is IE. I don't have the Bentley CD so can't test it in mozilla, but it's definately worth a try. Chris