davidwort

pretty much exactly where I used to have it before :) i.e. about in the middle, however, like I said in the original post, it's easy enough to pack out with washers to lower it some more if you prefer that.

Posted on behalf of Powersteeringstore.co.uk I've no vested interest :) just saw a post on Club GTI from someone who'd bought his K-jet fuel pump lines and thought it would be worth contacting the chap directly on behalf of the forum, the following is his response: An example of the components: DSC01179.jpg[/attachment:2ch1d9pg]

I guess you mean track rod end, they're pretty easy, providing the old one isn't siezed on solid, just need a bal ljoint separator ideally. The brakes will more than likely be a siezed hand brake mechanism in the caliper, they're all prone to this over time.

no, your confusing this thread with the thread: Has anyone else neons underneath their car

I just used a big screwdriver, tip pressed onto the top of the engine or the block, handle to your ear, you hear some mad noises doing that, sounds like it's running with no oil in at all :)

not just that, but the whole wheel, column and stalks all feels much more rigid and stronger than the adjustable version, the stalks seems to operate with a more defined clunk and you don't feel like the whole thing is bending, if like me you often lean on the wheel getting in and out of the car.

ignition switch earth to starter could be a whole host of things, as said, really need a better description of what it does/doesn't do.

I've only just discovered this recently, after 13 years of maintaining a 1.8 valver :lol: ,but there is a fan control relay on or near the fuseboard on the 1.8s apparently, I'm wondering whether this may be a related problem. Unfortunately I haven't investigated exactly how it interacts with the fan running circuit, it's allegedly just for the run on when the engine is turned off, but may interact to cause problems.

I'm sure Euro car parts had them listed at least at one point. around the 250-300 mark so I'd imagine VW are about the same price really.

looks like you'll be buying a pack of 50 then :lol: or http://www.nutsboltsandthings.co.uk/socketzinc.htm 11p each :)

been running with mine off now for 6 months and it makes bugger all difference, they weigh a ton don't they? I suppose you might notice something on a bog standard car, standard suspension, tyres etc. Must have been a refinement to the mk2 based chassis when the more powerful engines came along.

TBH I'd probably just go to VW for the bolts, although screwfix probably do an equivalent. from what I remember, even with the manifold off one of the bolts is obstructed by the angle of the pipe anyway, bit of a PITA, but fortunately mine came out with an allen key so not being able to get my allen socket square on the head wasn't an issue.

you shouldn't need to take the inlet manifold off. the flange should be held on with three hex head bolts, one or two can be a bit tricky to get at, especially if the hexes on the bolts have been rounded previously. the flange should come with the o-ring too I've managed this before with a compination of allen keys and allen sockets, def not taking the inlet off. best to try freeing all three bolts slowly and carefully before attacking all the surrounding parts on the head, you might be lucky I've done a couple now and only took 10 minutes or so.

they're not really a 2.1, early 2.0L conversions used custom cranks etc but once the 9A engine became available they simply used VW cranks in their conversions, so with slightly bigger pistons and using the 9A (1984cc crank) the club sport was under 2.05 L from what I remember. They are basically the same as the 2.1 that TSR sold too, slightly lower revving, limited to around 6,500 rpm compared to the 7,200 of a 1984cc 9A internals based engine (the 2L conversion) A lot of the 2L conversions were based on KR blocks, personally although plenty of these have done hundreds of thousands of miles I'd prefer a 6A/9A or even better ACE/ABF mk3 16v engine. The specs of GTI Engineering engine conversions were almost unique to each customer though, so depending on the choice of cams and other components some were built to be much higher revving and power outputs varied from motor to motor, if you believe the marketing bumpf then around 190bhp was the crank figure for a 2.1 club sport package. The main reason few were sold was that for similar cost you could buy a VR6 mk3 by the time they started to market the 2.1.

like the guys above said, if the clutch drags even a tiny amount it's enough to spin things a bit in the box and with no synchro on reverse it will crunch, a new clutch might sort it but it doesn't seem worth going to that effort.

if you get the camber about right the car shouldn't pull one way or the other, but if the toe (in or out) isn't right you'll scrub both front tyres over time, so don't leave it too long before getting all properly checked. A lot of toe in will tend to give very good straight line stability and steering self centering not to mention wearing the inside edges of both tyres.

I used one a while back and it did the job just fine, much much better than pedal-pumping bleeding with someone in the car.

with a combination of instructions that come with coilovers (hopefully) and something like a mk3 golf Haynes manual, you'll find it's a fairly easy job. There's a few tools you need depending on the year/model of car, a torque wrench for the nuts/bolts is fairly important. You will need to get the wheel alignment and camber set up at a garage after doing this work though, as you'll definitely put everything out. If you're looking at pressing new bushes into existing wishbones etc, then it's probably better to buy new wishbones with them already fitted or get a garage to press them in for you. But the bulk of the jobs are just nuts/bolts :)

short changed there, really should be a bearing in there somewhere :scratch:

I'm assuming VR's use triple/quadruple electrode plugs like the 4 cylinder engines, if so, how the hell would you measure the gap, the electrodes are curved :scratch: The last time I checked a spark plug gap was on a 1985 polo, gapping the points at the same time :lol:

if the 8v block has dished pistons they will be too low on compression I'd have thought, and the edge of them may even foul the inlet valves on the 16v head? you'll also have the 8v distributor and oil pump drive to sort out as these parts vary even from the KR to th 9A 16v engines the chaps over on Club GTI in the 16v sub forum will know everything for sure

just to keep your tyre wear to the minimum until you can get proper aligment checks done I'd slacken the hub to suspension leg bolts and adjust until you get around 0.5-1 degree of negative camber, on a 15" wheel that's about 7mm off the vertical from top to bottom on the wheel rim.

those boxes don't like to be rushed into reverse and with no synchro on reverse either they do like everything to be settled before popping in, I hate that sound though, makes you feel like people nearby think you have no idea what you are doing :)

you should use the entire 1.8 injection and ignition system from the original KR engine on the 2L 9A block and head, I think the additional wires you are on about are for the various sensors/temperature senders the 2L injection system uses and the electronic fuel pressure regulator (mechanical warm up regulator bolted to the head of the 1.8 engine instead - has two fuel lines going to it.) Any pics to support your questions would be helpful.

If in doubt, whack it, I had an old polo that did much the same :lol: