davidwort

certainly on the old dash 12 gallon/55Litre the temperature gauge/fuel gauge module can be removed separately and is identical to all the passat dashes of that era, I have a passat dash to cannabalise. I'd imagine it's the same for the later dash. Yes, it is, just checked on ETKA, both use PN 357919045M

Well bang goes that theory! On the way home tonight after 10 mins driving the temp gauge went flying to the top and the LED flashed permanently, did this all the way home. Removed header tank wiring, swapped temp sender connections around and nothing made any difference, just carried on flashing, although disconnecting the temp sender did make te gauge shut down, plugged back in it resumed it's misbehaving. All the time the car was running perfectly, oil temp spot on and the fan cutting in and out just fine idling on the drive. Switched the ignition off and back on and everything settled fine :shrug: time to try a new temp gauge I think, nothing else on the instrument pod is misbehaving.

you want the underbody wax in a rattle can from VW dealers, yellow stinky stuff that sets hard, not the engine bay clear wax, it's a tall thin white can with a slot in the side of the cap that has a long application tube with built in nozzle for those hard to reach places :)

it's a real PITA to do with the pump in place, for the cost of a new pump (quite cheap) it's worth taking the old pump off and fitting the stat and elbow off the car. Having said that, if the pump to engine bolts won't budge, they have been known to snap in the block, which at least doubles the time to do the job! I've never actually had leaks from not seating the o-ring doing the stat with the pumpo on the car, but it makes me very angry every time I slip and drop the o-ring on my face, lol.

Was surprised to see an all alloy straight 5 in a Toerag the other day, although it was an oil burner turbo. Thought straight 5's in VW's died with the 1980's passat.

header tank sender seemed to be the cause of this on mine, no idea why, but it seems cured with a new tank on.

mine came with the two big nuts for the suspension leg to hub and the nut for the hub to ball joint, as well as the hub nut of course.

that thick felt pad does seem to peel off without a trace over the years, might be becasue it's the 'wet' side of the door membrane.

aftermarket rad will probably run just fine, won't be quite as efficient but it's only really on very hot days or driving very hard that it would get a bit warmer over the proper VW one. Best of luck with sorting it out.

as above, the 16v rad should work just fine, mine's up to the job of cooling my 170ish bhp 16v, you could of course have a partial bockage in your rad. There's been quite a few postings on hot running valvers recently, could be a number of things, thermostat may still not be right metal water pipe from nr waterpump to round the side of the head may be quite corroded engine might be running too lean could be other partial blockages around the head and block fan switch, motor and/or relays may not be operating at the right temp or on both speeds properly

not the first time I've heard that on the 2L 16v. The pattern/generic lambdas do seem to be a bit ropey. I know this isn't much help after the event, but that does all add up now, I've seen a couple of other 2L cars that wouldn't idle at all unless you unplugged the sensors on the airbox, that does cause the ECU to run from internal values and ignore the lambda input.

I prefer a panel filter in a standard box with the snorkel pipe removed, but... no harm in trying something that will probably have a fair bit less restriction to gettting the air in. Oh, and just block the vac pipe off. Warm air from the manifold to the air box on the standard box only really makes a difference in the winter, and then it's only the warm up of the engine, so you might lose a few mpg for the first mile or two.

pretty sure all the ones I've had in my 1.8 and 2L engines have been pattern and VAG 80 degree stats. That's when they start to open so nearly 90 degrees seems a bit high.

under the metering head on the left of engine bay (bit with all the fuel lines coming out of it) there's four sprung/lever clips around the mid section of the big plastic box under the metering head, un-clip these and the whole metering head can be lifted up about 10cm, enough to get the filter in/out

If you search the forum (hopefully) you should find a multitude of threads and postings covering this sort of thing. But a quick list would involve checking: tyre pressure front wheel bearings wishbone rear bushes wishbone ball joints track rod ends and inner joints shock absorbers suspension top mounts If the car is running on original parts, then all of these could do with replacing to bring back that sharp Corrado handling, but wishbone bushes and ball joints are a favourite and suspension top mounts do get a fair bit of play in them as they get old. Oh, and welcome to the forum :)

I read that as wax and polish first time :lol: :| did you pay by Czech...

know nothing at all about painting, but that sounds like bollards, my C is full of filler down one side and there's no way of telling the joins with metal, BTW it had the respray over the filler in 1993.

depends on the gauge type, the early ones had a plastic orange filter that can be cut out in a couple of pieces, the later ones (as said earlier in this thread) require the orange layer of paint to be sanded away. It's all a bit tricky from what I recall, mostly the bit you've done, carefully prising the black ring face away.

prap's a previous owner had a paddy with it and left it out, have you had handles replaced or de-locked handles fitted?

polo twist golf driver corrado storm all the same really...

The metal lock pin thingy tends to fall sideways in the door skin a few cm if the plastic knob and door card hole trim cover isn't present, it should be in there somewhere. Various tips on keeping the things in place when you fit the door card, like popping a drinking straw over the top of the rod as you insert it through the hole in the top of the door card. The plastic pin hole surround is the same as a mk2 golf, front or rear doors, so you can usually find one in good nick at a scrap yard. Image1.gif[/attachment:105pxeli] :lol:

Corrado VR racks are the alloy cased type with the webbing strengthening to the body, the 4 cylinder Corrado ones are the smooth steel tube bodied ones. However, I bought a golf3 VR rack and although it had the plus axle track rods attached, it is identical to the 4 cylinder racks, looked exactly the same as my 1990 16v rack too, if you removed the track rods and discount the early 16v 36 spline input - I've got a late 22 spline UJ to go with the golf VR rack.

if you remove the 3rd drilling blank (allen headed bolt) on top of the oil filter housing, next to the pressure senders, you can fit a standard temp sender there, in addition to the temp sender for the MFA on the back of the head, it will only read 1 or two degreees below the temp on the head itself.

the whole point is it allows the Government to prop up the car mfrs and retail trade (big lobbyists) without falling foul of EU state aid laws plus it makes them look like they are doing something to help in the recession If we think it's a load of bollards, imagine what our children will think when they realise they are the ones who will be paying for it all But hey, we've all gained and shared so massively in the boom years, we're well placed to weather this storm :bad-words: Gordon Brown

Why can't americans proportion the fronts of their cars properly, the side lines look really nice but the grille and front look like they are viewed through a magnifying glass. see what you mean about the rear window/C pillar line, looks a bit more Hyundia coupe to me though